4.5LV build

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I didn't rebuild it with any new parts. It worked OK and I don't know if parts are available. I just disassembled it to get the canister to bare metal to sandblast and powdercoat it. It's pretty easy. The big clamp around the outside unbolts. I put it in a vise in case the spring was really tight, but it's not really that bad. The diaphragm and air valve are an assembly and don't have to come apart. The front and rear seals are held in place with a push in star ring.

The whole process including powdercoating and baking took less than an hour.

Cool, I had no idea. I thought that rebuilding it entailed breaking the seal to split the halves. I will def. do it now. Thanks.
 
Here's the booster.

and the booster with the master.
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master.webp
 
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Went to Harbor Freight today to get some sandpaper for my sanding boards.

They didn't have any, but I still left $350 lighter.

Got a bunch of disposable HVLP cups and a gun that some forums say is unbeatable for the price. Got masking paper and tape. A bunch of sticky discs for the RO sander. Some more sizes of blocks. And, of course, a whole bunch more stuff that I hope will be OK. Some won't but that's the game at HF - finding the stuff that's not crap.

If you find out the gun is decent please post up the part number.
 
it looks great but isn't that the spot for the clutch master? or did I miss something. if not where did you get your clutch booster? I want to try one to see if that solves my clutch problems.
jason
 
The Booster/master doesn't fit in the stock location because of the 1FZ intake manifold. I'm not using the clutch master because the truck now has an A343 trans. Some PO down the line re-fitted the truck with power brakes and discs so he moved the clutch hole and cut out the rib. I filled all the holes and re-drilled to put the master on the clutch side. I moved the reinforcing plate on the pedal assy to the clutch side as well. I will bridge the clutch and brake pedals so the brake pedal makes the clutch pivot actuate.

I'm thinking about putting the rib back.
 
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No pics today, but a good 8 hours of work. Lots and lots of block sanding. Both hoods and all four fenders, the tail gate and the roof. I found two dents on the roof, one on the tailgate and one on a fender while blocking so I fixed those. I decided I needed more than just high build primer on the roof welds so I skim coated all the welds with glazing putty.

Everything is ready for a 2nd batch of high build, but I ran out. I ordered another gallon with the paint. I'm hoping tomorrow brings lots of presents from the PPG store.

I stripped the wiper pivots and all the wiring too. This was supposed to be a quick and dirty get-it-running project, but it got out of hand. I went back over the cowl and stripped out the channels under the vent and where the hood sits, then re-primered them.

I'd like to get the roof in color this week so it can go back on the chassis again.
 
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Lame day waiting for materials. I found some old high build primer, but I used it on the SWB. If the paint has issues on that it needs new fenders anyway. That would not be the same as the roof on the LV.

So I disassembled the fenders, sanded the filler I put on yesterday and blocked them down. Blocked down the aprons and the grill. Blocked the interior. That was no fun, but easier than I expected since I didn't do the roof or floor.
Sandblasted the bezel and the rear window prop rods, then polished the prop rods. They look like they should be shiny. Then certainly shouldn't be OD green. Sandblasted the brake pedal assy too.

Finished the brakes on the Tracker too.:)
 
Still waiting on stuff. Supposed to be here today. There's no PPG place within 20 miles of me so I get to wait.

I went in any way and worked on some stuff. The poor braking on the Tracker was a stuck LSPV. Fortunately I know 80s so I know LSPVs. :D

Sandblasted and powdercoated some parts. It's fun and easy to do, but it's nothing that has to get done this week like just about everything else.

Did the e-brake handle assy. and the grill.

Blasted, primed and painted the wiper assy. Too many plastic bushings to powdercoat.

Welded the pedals together, took them off the bracket so I wouldn't melt the bushings and powdercoated the bracket too.

Messed around with some other stuff too, but nothing overly productive. Stuff like making sure the #8 screws were the right ones for the inner panels by fitting the panels in. They have to come back out, but it looked like I did something for the few hours I was in the shop.
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Are you just using regular oven for your powder coating? i am just wondering if this is something i should look into doing for my own stuff would you mind giving us a brief run down of what is needed and what not? everything looks great!
 
Eastwood Company powdercoater. I use the Pro gun, but the cheap one works very good. I have an old 220 V oven that I got from someone remodeling their kitchen. Don't use an oven you will ever use to cook food in. The coating gasses off and gets in the oven pretty bad. You would want 220V or gas in your garage for that oven. You don't even want to do it in the house even if it was a dedicated oven. It's 17" across so I can just squeeze a 17" rim in there.

I built a stand to hold the rack while I coat it and while it cools out of some angle iron and some tubing. I can raise and lower the rack so I can do hanging parts or parts sitting on the rack like in the pic above.

I like it a lot. I use it for all kinds of things. I've been doing it long enough that I have a lot of colors of powder. I go through a lot of high gloss black, but I use clear, cast iron, aluminum and some regular colors as well. Most colors I buy a small container (2#?) of. 4 rims usually take a 5#er with a bit left over. The anodized colors are pretty cool too.
 
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The answer is I really like the HF gun.

HVLP Spray Gun w/ Gravity Feed

I got all my paint today. Mostly spraying more primer, but I sprayed a test panel of both colors and hit the inside of one of the hoods with the balance of the white. I guess I also hit the rear hinges with the pyrite mica with the dregs of the gun too. pics when I get home after another couple of guns worth of high build.
 
Busy, busy day. Paint showed up.

Running out of primer really put a weird twist on the timing of everything. Rather than being ready for paint when it showed up I had to get back to priming and blocking. This morning I knew the paint was coming, but I didn't know when. I moved the chassis outside and cleaned the shop. I took the fenders off the chassis and lag bolted them to a bench top. I hung a bar from the ceiling so I could hang some parts.

When the paint showed up I hit everything with high build. Had to take a break for a while so things could dry enough to sand it all back down. Then I hit everything again, mostly with the final coat.

I mixed the minimum paint that I could measure with my measuring cup, about 7 ounces. Then sprayed a test panel. The lily white is yellower than I expected and the Pyrite is grayer than it should be and more metallic than it looks like on the Toyota trucks. I have to see it out in the light tomorrow to tell how much I like it. The test panel was just a door skin. I didn't primer it or anything, just sprayed right over whatever was there. Actually, it's a 1969 Camaro RS Convert door skin with remnants of Garnet Red paint on it. Not quite as rare as the LV, but maybe more desirable to people who don't know any better.
testpanal.webp
testpanel.webp
painting two rigs.webp
 
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I'm really glad I sprung for the Concept rather than the Omni. It was about $100 more a gallon and the bill I got today was pretty staggering, but it sprayed so easy and looks really, really good.

The only problem at this point is gonna be my prep and color choices. Hopefully, it'll work out OK.
 
Are you shooting a layer of thinned epoxy as a sealer coat?
 
That would have sucked looking great wish I was that far along
 

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