Builds 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy
- Thread starter sbman
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Ok I don't see anything wrong with the windage tray that looks like good work. Lol. Come on man, out with it! Lol
sbman
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- #144
We all do stupid things from time to time I suppose. This isn't the first stupid thing I've done on this build, I'll admit. Yesterday evening, I decided to work on the bottom end and started to turn the engine over in the stand. I forgot the cams weren't there and a couple of buckets fell out. Not a big deal, but dumb. This one is going to be more expensive. I looked up into the front of the block from the hole where the #2 oil pan goes and it looked like there was a ton of clearance up front for my new studs. While I was tightening it up though, I heard a loud POP. And this was the result.
This is the #1 bearing cap on the exhaust side. not good.
Now I need a new oil pan. I am extremely happy that I saw this now, and not later.
This is the #1 bearing cap on the exhaust side. not good.
Now I need a new oil pan. I am extremely happy that I saw this now, and not later.
sbman
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- #146
So I learned today that oil pan #1 is not bendable at all, it just pops and cracks. I did get the head torqued down, valves adjusted, main bearing cap studs installed, oil pump gears and cover installed, timing chain hooked up and timed, and oil pan mostly modified for studs. Now to find me a non cracked oil pan. Hard to believe that work was 9+ hours of wrenching!
I also learned that with the Opel kit you need a 12pt deep well 13mm socket, or a 1/2" drive 12 point socket that has a longer reach than a 3/8" drive 13mm does. Also, if you squeeze a Toyota FIPG tube hard enough, they pop at the other end and make a huge mess. yuck. Toyota FIPG cleans up OK with paint thinner.
Two steps forward one step back. At least it's progress.
I also learned that with the Opel kit you need a 12pt deep well 13mm socket, or a 1/2" drive 12 point socket that has a longer reach than a 3/8" drive 13mm does. Also, if you squeeze a Toyota FIPG tube hard enough, they pop at the other end and make a huge mess. yuck. Toyota FIPG cleans up OK with paint thinner.
Two steps forward one step back. At least it's progress.
Damn sorry to hear that! I wonder what stud paradise is using? There are lots of reports of people in the Middle East using supra studs for mains with no problems.
The crack looks minor. Take it to a competent welder and it should be good as new.
The crank position sensor comes with a new O-ring. Unfortunately, that thing is pricey.
Robbie @powderpig told me to clean it good and coat it with FIPG. No leaks.
Make sure you wipe all surfaces with carb cleaner before the FIPG. It needs a good oil free surface to work well.
Robbie @powderpig told me to clean it good and coat it with FIPG. No leaks.
Make sure you wipe all surfaces with carb cleaner before the FIPG. It needs a good oil free surface to work well.
sbman
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- Thread starter
- #154
I don't care for carb cleaner for that use, some brands/types leave a residue. I generally use brake cleaner for that, it's quick drying, residue free and has a nice blasting action if needed. Alternatively denatured alcohol is cheaper and I use that when I'm out of brake cleaner.
I hate it when manufacturers don't sell critical parts like seals and o-rings, not cool that they don't sell the seal separate from the sensor. I'll do the FIPG thing on it I guess.
You don't have to use the Toyota specific FIPG gasket. I been using the Permatex Ultra Gray RTV for over 20 years without any issues. Toyota don't make any sealants or fluids. It's all relabel and repackage from other brands for Toyota.
sbman
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- #156
Studs by the numbers.
Paradise Racing Stud Set:
4.5" Overall length
0.930" usable threads each end
0.430" shank diameter
Opel Stud kit 209-4702:
5" Overall length
0.930" usable threads each end
0.375" shank diameter
In my opinion the ideal head studs for an all stock height OEM cylinder head on the 1FZ-FE would have an overall length of 4.75" and the same thread engagement of 0.930". If someone gives me the supra specs and kit model number, I'll add them to this post.
Paradise Racing Stud Set:
4.5" Overall length
0.930" usable threads each end
0.430" shank diameter
Opel Stud kit 209-4702:
5" Overall length
0.930" usable threads each end
0.375" shank diameter
In my opinion the ideal head studs for an all stock height OEM cylinder head on the 1FZ-FE would have an overall length of 4.75" and the same thread engagement of 0.930". If someone gives me the supra specs and kit model number, I'll add them to this post.
sbman
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- Thread starter
- #157
After looking at my oil pan this morning the crack is a lot worse than it looked in my picture. It goes over to the corner and down the side towards one of the bolts. I realized that portion of the pan is shallower for whatever reason, probably clearance for some item under the truck or something and that's why that only that one stud hit.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Oh damn!!!Ouch.
here is a thread and my solution for the crank sensor o-ring
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/crank-sensor.82601/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/crank-sensor.82601/
sbman
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- Thread starter
- #160
Carnage from the inside:
In case you are new to this thread, I used ARP head studs in place of the OEM main cap bolts. I checked for clearance, but not carefully enough. A slightly cracked oil pan was the result. Read previous posts for details.
Today I learned a lot about 1FZ-FE oil pans. I had assumed there was one pan for all years, but that is not correct. I had a deal worked out to acquire the parts I wanted. Went down to pick them up, looked em over and all was good. I paid for them and as they were getting them ready to load it up, I looked to see if the Crank Position Sensor was installed. The oil pan had no hole or studs or any accommodation for a crank position sensor. It was a 1FZ from a '94. So obviously couldn't use that. Received a refund and info on another scrap yard to try.
The second yard had a half dozen 80's, but only one newer model, a 96. It had the correct oil pan with a crank position sensor, but it also had a huge hole in it from a thrown rod. All of his others were missing the crank position sensor mounting hole. Then we found a pan off a '95 that had a casting for the hole, but no machining of the hole. I'd have to have a machine shop modify the rough casting in that area and he wanted $200 for it. I passed.
So to sum up, there are three types of pans I saw for the 1FZ today. No CPS mount. CPS mount casting, but not machined, and of course the CPS mount one I needed but could not find.
There are far more 91-94 in the local scrap yards than 96-97. Most of them have been in front end collisions.
Next step is to find a welder to fix the pan I've got. They are pretty hard to find. I'll also just have a bit of clearance added while it's being repaired. Does anyone have a pic of a 96/97 1FZ-FE installed in the truck? Do I have room for a little bump to be installed on the pan without hitting anything?
In case you are new to this thread, I used ARP head studs in place of the OEM main cap bolts. I checked for clearance, but not carefully enough. A slightly cracked oil pan was the result. Read previous posts for details.
Today I learned a lot about 1FZ-FE oil pans. I had assumed there was one pan for all years, but that is not correct. I had a deal worked out to acquire the parts I wanted. Went down to pick them up, looked em over and all was good. I paid for them and as they were getting them ready to load it up, I looked to see if the Crank Position Sensor was installed. The oil pan had no hole or studs or any accommodation for a crank position sensor. It was a 1FZ from a '94. So obviously couldn't use that. Received a refund and info on another scrap yard to try.
The second yard had a half dozen 80's, but only one newer model, a 96. It had the correct oil pan with a crank position sensor, but it also had a huge hole in it from a thrown rod. All of his others were missing the crank position sensor mounting hole. Then we found a pan off a '95 that had a casting for the hole, but no machining of the hole. I'd have to have a machine shop modify the rough casting in that area and he wanted $200 for it. I passed.
So to sum up, there are three types of pans I saw for the 1FZ today. No CPS mount. CPS mount casting, but not machined, and of course the CPS mount one I needed but could not find.
There are far more 91-94 in the local scrap yards than 96-97. Most of them have been in front end collisions.
Next step is to find a welder to fix the pan I've got. They are pretty hard to find. I'll also just have a bit of clearance added while it's being repaired. Does anyone have a pic of a 96/97 1FZ-FE installed in the truck? Do I have room for a little bump to be installed on the pan without hitting anything?
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