Builds 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy

[blkprj80]

Beno made a PDF list and posted it somewhere. It was very useful for me.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/considering-engine-rebuild.795156/#post-9060121
There is a link in the link above.

 

[sbman]

Tonight I attempted to mount the timing cover and the head. The timing cover went OK. It turns out the o-rings I needed ARE in the rebuild kit, they just don't fit very well, and are way out at the outer edges of their recess. Odd. But the rebuild kit just comes in a big pile so there is no positive way to identify them. The new parts I ordered were individually bagged so I knew for sure. Oh well. I also got the distributor o-ring which I definitely did not have.

So, apply o-rings with some sil-glyde. Then FIPG in the prescribed areas. Install 15 ft. lbs. temporarily install water pump to apply pressure to entire timing cover. Job done.

Next up was the head. I don't have to tell you this thing is big.

 

[sbman]

Here is where I ran into a problem. Anytime you go off standard and use other parts, performance or not, you can easily run into problems. If you just want to get done, then you should use the original parts.

I need to call paradise racing and find out what is up with that, these are the '1FZ-FE ARP Stud Kit' from them. All of them are the same, short a couple of threads.

 

[sbman]

Another note for those of you who decide to use an ARP stud kit. The studs are equipped with a 3/16" hex drive for installation. Yuck. Then the nuts are 13mm 12 point which Toyota does not use, Toyota sticks to 12mm or 14mm heads.

I don't have a full set of standard size tools, I only work on metric cars, so I had to go buy a 3/16" hex driver for my ratchet. Now you know.

 

[allan man]

Cruiser porn!! More Pls. Subd.

 

[stockfj80]

Pretty sure the ARP head studs kit they sell are for the 2JZGTE motor. What's the part number on the ARP box?

 

[Bogart]

send em back, the 'opel' kit works perfectly, other than cutting two studs down that sit under the cam at the front

 

[sbman]

Pretty sure the ARP head studs kit they sell are for the 2JZGTE motor. What's the part number on the ARP box?

I ordered this kit: http://paradiseracing.com/shop/arp-hardware/1fz-arp-head-stud-kit/

It didn't come in a box, they put the kit together with studs ordered from ARP directly and bag it. Their response is that the fit is normal and OK to use, they assured me it was OK with 3/4 thread engagement and many customers are running this way. They said that if I'm not happy to just return them and they will refund me.

I personally want full engagement so I'll order up a different set. I will check and see if I can use these on the bottom end as main bearing cap studs, I believe they were a perfect fit for that. If so I'll use 'em there or return them if not.

 

[stockfj80]

Try to use the "Opel" kit if you can. ARP supposed to make a FZJ specific kit awhile back but not sure if the group buy to get ARP make them fell thru or not. I assumed it did. For me personally I would want the stud to sit flush with the nut. But it sounds like Paradise Racing repackage the kit.

 

[strictlyRUM]

It is common. It is more than likely just the supra kit. The supra kit is short from bottoming out. Anything past 2.5 times the diameter of any bolt in to the block is unnecessary. Nearly all threads are this way. You cant make a male/female thread engagement that has contact continuously. It wouldnt work that way. It would have to contact on full thread profile (interference fit) which would would be impossible to thread and unthread. Some of those who used the supra kit were dropping a spacer down into the block to bottom the stud out but not needed. For them to be run correctly they need full engagement on the nut and not bottomed out in the block. I realize it feels better to have it bottom out in the block but it is completely unnecessary.

 

[baldilocks]

Here is where I ran into a problem. Anytime you go off standard and use other parts, performance or not, you can easily run into problems. If you just want to get done, then you should use the original parts.

I need to call paradise racing and find out what is up with that, these are the '1FZ-FE ARP Stud Kit' from them. All of them are the same, short a couple of threads.

Very recently I ordered the same kit from Paradise Racing. I installed an OEM HG which is approximately .050 thick maybe a little more. I ended up with two threads above the nut. How thick is you Cometic HG? How deep is the stud in the block? Not necessary to bottom out the studs because most of the holding is done by the first 10 threads, that is why Toyota says to measure their bolts where they do. These studs worked very well for me.

 

[sbman]

This would all be a lot easier if ARP would just produce a kit for the 1FZ-FE with proper instructions and fasteners. I'm not a fastener expert. ARP web site says this about cylinder head stud install: 'However, it is extremely important to ensure that the studs are fully bottomed out in the hole in the block'. I ordered the Opel kit. We'll see what happens. Then I have to decide if I follow ARPs supra instructions (80 ft. lbs) or do the 35 ft. lbs + 90 degree thing as specced in the FSM. I am wishing I had just bought Toyota head bolts, too much guessing.

 

[stockfj80]

Someone correct me but I don't think you're supposed to use the torque to yield method with ARP stud kits. Hopefully they supplied you with the ARP moly lube as the torque spec using the moly is lower vs using plain motor oil.

 

[Bogart]

i asked both Arp and some 'experts ' here on the board and the consensus was to use the arp torque recommendation of 80ft lbs, 2 years since i did mine and no issues ( knock on wood)

 

[scottryana]

You do not do the torque to yield instructions for the ARP bolts. If you get Supra bolts you torque them to whatever it says in the box. There are about 3 or 4 different variations of Supra stud depending on grade so just follow the directions in the box.

 

[blkprj80]

Yes, torque to the ARP 80 ft-lb, and lube the threads and the mating surface of the nut/washer. I walked mine up at half torque in the pattern, then went full torque and checked a second time, all in the pattern.

Also, whichever you use, check the fit of your socket. My Opel kit's nuts are 1/2". A 13mm fits, but is 11 thousandths larger/looser.

 

[NLXTACY]

send em back, the 'opel' kit works perfectly, other than cutting two studs down that sit under the cam at the front

Opel kit for me and didn't need to adjust anything. Correct outta the box.

 

[sbman]

Opel kit is on it's way and 80 ft. lbs is what I'll do. Now to use the paradise stud kit on the bottom end. 60 ft. pounds like the supra mains kit?

 

[scottryana]

What did Paradise tell you to torque them to? The torque won't change on the mains or the head, the torque is a function of the stud material. So if they told you 80ft/lbs before than it would be 80ft/lbs on the mains.

 

[baldilocks]

i asked both Arp and some 'experts ' here on the board and the consensus was to use the arp torque recommendation of 80ft lbs, 2 years since i did mine and no issues ( knock on wood)

Did you remove the cams and perform a re-torque after some run time? I installed my head with ARP studs about 500 miles ago and now I'm wondering if I should torqu again.