Builds 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy (2 Viewers)

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After the PO drove the FZJ80 an unknown number of miles with a blown head gasket, the #6 piston looked like this:

P1040119-M.jpg


The bore was no better. The head was warped and no compression in #6 cylinder. Chocolate milk oil. I pulled the motor (per my build thread) and am now ready for the rebuild. I'm putting the rebuild here separate in case folks like to see the rebuild itself without all my rig specific stuff.

So, with parts back from the machine shop, it's time to take the next step in getting my cruiser on the road for the first time since I bought it. I have never actually driven a cruiser more than 5 miles when I test drove one that I did not buy because the guy wanted too much money. I used to have an 88 Toyota Pickup 4WD

Work done at the shop included:

  • Tank and jet wash most everything
  • Magnaflux block
  • Line bore for standard bearings
  • Polish and clean crank
  • Bore cylinders over .5 mm
  • Install new expansion plugs
  • Deck block .015" due to pitting from blown HG
  • Fit Return 'Safety Auto' Hypereutectic pistons made in Japan China
  • Fit Hastings rings
  • Resize rod ends
  • Fit new wrist pins
  • Balance rotating mass components
  • Find original head unusable due to warp
  • Pressure test used head
  • Surface used replacement head .005"
  • All new valves
  • Three angle valve job
  • Bench adjust valves
  • OEM valve stem seals installed
 
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Joined
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This is the block as arrived from the machine shop

P1040101-L.jpg


Before I paint it or do anything else, the first step is to test fit the crank and plasti-gage it for correct clearance. Because it was line bored all of the crank bearings are now reset and no longer at factory values so the stampings there don't mean anything. If you don't know what line boring is, they re-drill all of the holes that the crank sit in. The factory setting was out of tolerance .0005". The machinery used for that now is incredibly precise. I follow the FSM procedure for plastigaging. The machinist told me this wasn't necessary, he was confident it was all ready to go but I wanted to do it anyways for my own peace of mind.

To plastigage you install the new bearings and then lay a small piece of plastigage plastic on the bearing surface and tighten the bolt to spec. Then remove the cap and use the gauge to measure the clearance.

The new bearings are 'safety auto' and are made in Japan. They appear to be very high quality.

P1040111-S.jpg

P1040112-L.jpg


With the lower bearings installed, you place the crank carefully. It weighs about 90 pounds.

P1040113-L.jpg
 
Joined
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P1040114-L.jpg


Now the bearing caps are installed and tightened to spec. Then remove them and check the plastigage with the gauge that is included with it.

P1040116-L.jpg


It's really hard to see with the flash, sorry. The tolerance was dead on in every journal. Between .0015 and .0020. Nothing exceeded .0020 and the variance was beyond the ability of the plastigage to measure. I did find one of the new bearings has a scratch I'm not happy with so I'm going to exchange them for a new set. I'm sure it could be used, but I'm not going to.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Are you at a point where you could estimate what this rebuild will cost you?
 
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Mmmmmm..... naked engine parts = damn sexy.
 
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Going to be watching this with interest, as I may be doing this within a year or so
 
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Are the head bolts and main bolts reusable? Does ARP make bolts or studs as an alternative?
 
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Are you at a point where you could estimate what this rebuild will cost you?

I'm estimating about $4K for the long block. That's all machine work, pistons, rings, valves, gaskets, water pump, timing kit, etc. to complete the engine itself. Does not include external stuff like hoses, belts, radiator work, injector cleaning, etc... If you use all OEM parts, the same rebuild would be $6K or more. I've been careful to source parts from Japanese manufacturers where it makes sense to bring the cost down. In many cases it is likely that they are made by the same company as OEM. I'll post details and photos of each part I install as I progress. The labor for R&R and engine assembly is myself as well as countless hours researching and sourcing components.

Are the head bolts and main bolts reusable? Does ARP make bolts or studs as an alternative?

The head bolts can be re-used per the FSM, they are measured before re-use. I am using an ARP stud kit on the head that I purchased from paradise racing. It is likely that a supercharger or turbo is in the cards for this truck at some point in the next few years.

1FZ-FE ARP Head Stud Kit - Paradise Racing

The main bolts and rod bolts are being reused. The FSM says that if a main bolt 'does not reach torque spec' to replace it. I'm not sure what they mean by that.

EDIT: Did not reuse main bolts. After several test fits, a mistake attempting to use some aftermarket studs, I ended up ordering OEM new main bolts. Ouch. $$$
 
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baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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I just installed my head with that stud kit from paradise racing. That toque se down very nicely. My question is: Do we go back for a re-torque after some heat cycles? I have found that most here on Mud never do and have no issues.
 
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Did you replace the oil pump bushing?

Getting ahead of ourselves... this is a real time rebuild. I'll get there. :rimshot:

If it is not too late can you please compare the main bolts to the head bolts????

I have been told you can use the ARP studs for both.

I'll snap a photo tonight and post it comparing them.

So far tonight I've found that I'm not happy with the piston to crank oil clearance. It's gauging at .003" which is .001" past new spec and half way to the "worn out" spec of .004". I'm taking the crank and pistons/rods back to the machine shop to have it checked out tomorrow. I also have some concerns about the quality of the pistons upon very close examination.
 
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Using paradise racing 1FZ-FE ARP head stud 'custom kit' as main bearing studs is an interesting idea.

Here is the main bolt up top. Head stud below:

P1040123.jpg


Stud bottomed in block and bearing cap sitting on it's machined surface:

P1040122.jpg


Bearing cap installed and hand tightened to about 10 ft/lbs, with included nut and washer from Paradise Racing Kit:

Sorry for the focus problem

P1040121.jpg
 

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