NLXTACY
Wits' End
I retorqued, FWIW
Builds 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy
- Thread starter sbman
- Start date
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I retorqued, FWIW
Pepsi or coke, Colgate or crest, ford or Chevy.
The retorque argument has been beaten to death on here.
I will say my peace one more time. Lol
If you are using a non yeilding bolt with a fiberous head gasket than in an ideal world you should retorque. If you are using it with a MLS gasket the need to retorque is lower. Is it likely you will have any issues with either head gasket if you do not? No. In stock form the cylinder pressure is very low and it is not likely you will have any issues. Is it ideal? No.
The retorque argument has been beaten to death on here.
I will say my peace one more time. Lol
If you are using a non yeilding bolt with a fiberous head gasket than in an ideal world you should retorque. If you are using it with a MLS gasket the need to retorque is lower. Is it likely you will have any issues with either head gasket if you do not? No. In stock form the cylinder pressure is very low and it is not likely you will have any issues. Is it ideal? No.
sbman
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #123
I fitted a stud from the paradise kit on a main cap. It fits nicely. I'll torque to 80 with the ARP lube. I'll check the oil pan clearance carefully, the studs do stick out just a bit more, it looks like there is plenty of room though.
Then I'll use the Opel kit up top @ 80 ft lbs as well. It will be here tomorrow. $400 worth of bolts. I was getting concerned about the bottom end bolts anyways. When I measured them they were nearly at, but not quite at the 'replace' spec.
Then I'll use the Opel kit up top @ 80 ft lbs as well. It will be here tomorrow. $400 worth of bolts. I was getting concerned about the bottom end bolts anyways. When I measured them they were nearly at, but not quite at the 'replace' spec.
Good man. That's my plan. Entry level Supra ARP studs on the mains, kicked up Supra ARP studs on the head.
I know that many members here have not re-torqued but I have to agree with you and will force myself to spend a day off doing this.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I did it because not only was it recommended but in my own head I knew I should based on my past experience. The current data shows though that it might not be needed. There is no long term/high mileage data yet to know for sure.
Last edited:
ewillis
SILVER Star
This is my new favorite thread! Using this image as my screensaver...proceed! 
Tonight I attempted to mount the timing cover and the head.
sbman
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #131
Here's a bigger version of the head, cropped to get my junky garage out of the pic.
http://winnfamily.smugmug.com/Cars/Landcruiser/i-tTq38Nw/0/O/headwide.jpg
http://winnfamily.smugmug.com/Cars/Landcruiser/i-tTq38Nw/0/O/headwide.jpg
sbman
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #132
And the front of the engine in original size, cropped.
http://winnfamily.smugmug.com/Cars/Landcruiser/i-s9P6xCK/0/O/1FZ-FEFrontPartial.jpg
http://winnfamily.smugmug.com/Cars/Landcruiser/i-s9P6xCK/0/O/1FZ-FEFrontPartial.jpg
Before you get ahead of yourself and me being lazy not wanting to scroll back to page 1 of this build thread. I hope you plastigauge your main bearing and thrust bearing for the proper oil clearance.
Also, you can also deburr the oil drain passage on the block to help with oil flow and check the oil pump clearance too.
Also what kind of torque wrench are you using? Brand wise. For non critical parts like suspension, wheel lugs, etc. I use a Craftsman torque wrench. For engine building or anything where it's critical to get the torque value on the dot. I bust out the Snap On (which get calibrated once a year)
Btw, thumbs up on tackling the rebuild yourself and not paying someone.
Also, you can also deburr the oil drain passage on the block to help with oil flow and check the oil pump clearance too.
Also what kind of torque wrench are you using? Brand wise. For non critical parts like suspension, wheel lugs, etc. I use a Craftsman torque wrench. For engine building or anything where it's critical to get the torque value on the dot. I bust out the Snap On (which get calibrated once a year)
Btw, thumbs up on tackling the rebuild yourself and not paying someone.
sbman
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #137
So today was a long day of wrenching. I started off at the beach n' toys landcruiser swap meet and picked up a set of center caps for the wheels. I also saw a bunch of really nice landcruisers, mostly 70s and 80s. One guy there had an almost new 70 series pickup truck I'd love to have! Another guy had a cummins 4BT conversion that was very nice. I'm terrible with names.
So, got home and started wrenching. First up was to mount the head with the newly aquired opel stud kit. These studs are 0.500" longer than the Paradise kit. They have a slightly smaller diameter (aside from the threads which are identical of course), but come with instructions for 80 ft. lbs of torque. I applied the ARP lube liberally and torqued them up. They torque up so much nicer than the OEM bolts. The OEM bolts feel like they are about to snap.
I was careful to measure the threads remaining, and from my measurements, I still had 4 threads underneath there once I reached full torque spec. All good. I measured the clearance under the camshaft gears and determined it would be 0.002" to 0.007" and I wasn't excited about that. So I ground the bolts off about 0.050" for the two under the gear.
Head mounted! 80 ft. pounds mounts that thing up tight.
So, got home and started wrenching. First up was to mount the head with the newly aquired opel stud kit. These studs are 0.500" longer than the Paradise kit. They have a slightly smaller diameter (aside from the threads which are identical of course), but come with instructions for 80 ft. lbs of torque. I applied the ARP lube liberally and torqued them up. They torque up so much nicer than the OEM bolts. The OEM bolts feel like they are about to snap.
I was careful to measure the threads remaining, and from my measurements, I still had 4 threads underneath there once I reached full torque spec. All good. I measured the clearance under the camshaft gears and determined it would be 0.002" to 0.007" and I wasn't excited about that. So I ground the bolts off about 0.050" for the two under the gear.
Head mounted! 80 ft. pounds mounts that thing up tight.
Uh oh what happened?? I can't imagine clearance issues it looks pretty tidy.
sbman
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #140
So there they are. All 14 paradise studs mounted and torqued.
They stick up a bit higher than the OEM bolts so I started test fitting the oil pan. I had to modify the windage tray to get four bolts to clear near the rear.
I used a die grinder to grind out some clearance on the windage tray and then cleaned it up with a file. Came out OK. I'm not saying you should do this, but it's what I did. Keep reading to find out what went wrong, it had nothing to do with this.
They stick up a bit higher than the OEM bolts so I started test fitting the oil pan. I had to modify the windage tray to get four bolts to clear near the rear.
I used a die grinder to grind out some clearance on the windage tray and then cleaned it up with a file. Came out OK. I'm not saying you should do this, but it's what I did. Keep reading to find out what went wrong, it had nothing to do with this.
