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- #161
that was my concern....the coolant and something else dripping out...did a bit of research and found great posts with by pass (images included)...will try to get that done tomorrow so i can figure out the hose sizes i need.
Builds 1994 1hz 80 series ZOMBIE
- Thread starter MoeGasim
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that was my concern....the coolant and something else dripping out...did a bit of research and found great posts with by pass (images included)...will try to get that done tomorrow so i can figure out the hose sizes i need.
Aggiesdm
***** Regular
Pretty sure it will use standard 3/4" heater hose to do the bypass, but definitely check it before you buy the hose. I've been known to be wrong on occasion (aka often) when speaking Cruiser language. Great job. Hope you get the sunroof cleaned and working without any major issues.
Btw, I wouldn't use the CAT5 cable, the insulation wouldn't be enough to protect the conductors in my opinion, and they are meant for low voltage stuff not 12V, so you might have issue getting enough voltage to your relays and whatnot. Just my $0.02.
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- #163
yeah, i usually get stuff messed up myself...and here unfortunately, our stores bring in 'not so accurate' sizes....so better take it with me and measure up.
as scottryana said, i did think of issues regarding the insulator, and now with your advice, will definitely avoid them..
I too hope the sun roof works.... will see maybe tomorrow...i intent to test it before hooking it up again....
thanx
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- #164
eye candy
sorted out the wires....various colours and sizes....with the far left being the 'rest of the bunch'.......
will be using
-blue and green for lights
-red and yellow for combination meter and dash switches
-white for earth
the wires on the left between junk and colours will be used for relays, the ones on the right (heaviest) will provide power.
besides the ones i bought the other day.
driver side will carry lights n stuff....passenger side for audio
will try to organize all wires to engine bay from driver side....trying to avoid the multi entry to compartment shaped harness...for the engine sensors, A/C and Alternator, will drive them to the firewall and to the wire combo (driver side)
each bunch will have its own hose which, which then all combine to connectors before going into a larger hose to the inside of the cruiser.
sounds reasonable?
sorted out the wires....various colours and sizes....with the far left being the 'rest of the bunch'.......
will be using
-blue and green for lights
-red and yellow for combination meter and dash switches
-white for earth
the wires on the left between junk and colours will be used for relays, the ones on the right (heaviest) will provide power.
besides the ones i bought the other day.
driver side will carry lights n stuff....passenger side for audio
will try to organize all wires to engine bay from driver side....trying to avoid the multi entry to compartment shaped harness...for the engine sensors, A/C and Alternator, will drive them to the firewall and to the wire combo (driver side)
each bunch will have its own hose which, which then all combine to connectors before going into a larger hose to the inside of the cruiser.
sounds reasonable?
- Thread starter
- #165
quick sketch of what i mean..
Aggiesdm
***** Regular
Sounds like a plan. Whatever you do, you'll be in better shape than you were when you started. Just take your time and it'll be great.
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- #167
It definitely is better than before. ..but did mr Toyota design the harness their way for technical or plain manufacturing reasons
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- #168
Need to clean up the nuts n bolts before installing. ...would a good dip in diesel do it?
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Throwing them in diesel will be fine. just remember where they ask go. Lol
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- #170
Great....will start that now...
If I forget where they go....will just super glue everything back...loooool
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On your rear sunroof drains: They drain through a hose down the rear and should actually stick out the bottom of the rear floor pan in the area of the inner rear fender well. There is a rubber grommet around the hose to hold it as well as seal it into place. You don't want it draining into your fender well or you will have the sediment mess you already have as well as rust. Check your front rocker panels as well to make sure they are not filled with dirt and sediment, as the front drains empty into the rocker panels and are supposed to be able to drain through the slits. Based on what I see, yours are probably full.....screwdriver and garden hose....
On the lubrication on the sunroof, if you can find any silicone based lubricants, that will help repel the dust and dirt in the environment you are in. Petroleum lubricants will tend to attract the dirt and turn it into an abrasive goo that will wear out parts and make them gum up. Don't know if graphite or dry white Teflon lubricants will work in those parts or not. Since availability is tough for you, use what you have and deal with the consequences of having to clean and rebuild every so often.
On the frame weld repair, make sure to lay a plate over top of the weld you have already done and stitch weld it all round as a patch plate. this will strengthen the joint. Welding to the frame creates a brittle area around the weld called the Heat Affected Zone (HAZ) and that is the area that breaks under strain and repeated flexing and loading. Semi truck do repairs like that by welding the crack, then laying a small plate on the inside of the frame and stitch welding around it, then laying a larger plate on the outside and stitch welding around that one in a different pattern. If both inner and outer plates were the same size and location, it gives a "can opener" affect and will allow the forces to line up and break rather than allowing the flex.
On the wiring, use as large of wires as you can for the wiring harness, particularly for the power wires. In DC voltage, the amperages are high which increases the heat due to current flow. If you go with a larger wire, the current loss (through heat) is reduced and the system works better. If in doubt, use larger wire. Mr. T used the wires he did to A) reduce cost, B) reduce weight. I think those two items are the least of your worries.
Good Luck!
Duct tape, baling wire, WD 40, and silicone caulk...all the major tools you need.
On the lubrication on the sunroof, if you can find any silicone based lubricants, that will help repel the dust and dirt in the environment you are in. Petroleum lubricants will tend to attract the dirt and turn it into an abrasive goo that will wear out parts and make them gum up. Don't know if graphite or dry white Teflon lubricants will work in those parts or not. Since availability is tough for you, use what you have and deal with the consequences of having to clean and rebuild every so often.
On the frame weld repair, make sure to lay a plate over top of the weld you have already done and stitch weld it all round as a patch plate. this will strengthen the joint. Welding to the frame creates a brittle area around the weld called the Heat Affected Zone (HAZ) and that is the area that breaks under strain and repeated flexing and loading. Semi truck do repairs like that by welding the crack, then laying a small plate on the inside of the frame and stitch welding around it, then laying a larger plate on the outside and stitch welding around that one in a different pattern. If both inner and outer plates were the same size and location, it gives a "can opener" affect and will allow the forces to line up and break rather than allowing the flex.
On the wiring, use as large of wires as you can for the wiring harness, particularly for the power wires. In DC voltage, the amperages are high which increases the heat due to current flow. If you go with a larger wire, the current loss (through heat) is reduced and the system works better. If in doubt, use larger wire. Mr. T used the wires he did to A) reduce cost, B) reduce weight. I think those two items are the least of your worries.
Good Luck!
Duct tape, baling wire, WD 40, and silicone caulk...all the major tools you need.
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- #172
Thank you very much...very informative...especially the wiring...i did have concerns that things will melt AGAIN...u helpfully cleared that up for me.
The welding i know nothing about, but i asked a couple of drivers here for a specific guy who knows his stuff....that will have to wait a bit though...but im not going anywhere except tarmac roads for now...
Lubricants here, even petroleum ones are really poor quality...again, a few drivers i asked didnt even know what silicon based was....so i told them the white grease they use in electrical motors....so...ooooooh...they replied....u must then ask an electrician....i went and did....and the sudanese lay man mechanic answer was.....why not just use normal grease or engine oil..hmmmmm....guess i will have to look into some A/C supply shops and see if they have any.
SOme of the seals on the sun roof are broken....especially the two front corner ones under the wind thingy....if i manage to get it working...i was thinking of applying a small silicon barrier (the type of glue they seal windshields with) that wont get in the way, but will stop water dripping into the mechanism....will that work, or do i have to visit the junk yard (which i know i wont find the parts)..
again....very informative...thank you very much
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- #173
Been searching the forum and web to find best practice for connecting and splicing wires...came up with ...
1 soldering and shrink wrap
2 crimping and shrink wrap
3 soldering then crimping and shrink wrap
Any advice please?
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1 soldering and shrink wrap
2 crimping and shrink wrap
3 soldering then crimping and shrink wrap
Any advice please?
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Always option 1 for me, a good soldered joint IMO id the best!
#1 wherever possible.
For extending a wire: Insert the strands into each other (not twisting them together) and solder the joint. This gives the most surface area of the wires to contact each other with the solder holding together. Then shrink over the top, at LEAST 25mm on each side of the joint.
For splicing a wire, insert the strands through the existing wire, then fold and twist over the existing wire and solder. Shrink if possible, otherwise, tape tightly and about 30mm each side of the joint. Wrap the tape at least two layers, one in each direction to offset the seams and direction of the wrap to deflect dripping water.
#3 is the best all-around for strength, but take a lot longer and can be difficult in some areas.
#1 is the second most practical and has excellent electrical transfer.
#2 is the most economical and the fastest, but there is a relationship to contact area of the crimped fitting and the wire grip for adequate contact and electrical transfer. There can be radio interferences generated here if the crimp is not done properly. If worried about it, add the solder like #3.
For extending a wire: Insert the strands into each other (not twisting them together) and solder the joint. This gives the most surface area of the wires to contact each other with the solder holding together. Then shrink over the top, at LEAST 25mm on each side of the joint.
For splicing a wire, insert the strands through the existing wire, then fold and twist over the existing wire and solder. Shrink if possible, otherwise, tape tightly and about 30mm each side of the joint. Wrap the tape at least two layers, one in each direction to offset the seams and direction of the wrap to deflect dripping water.
#3 is the best all-around for strength, but take a lot longer and can be difficult in some areas.
#1 is the second most practical and has excellent electrical transfer.
#2 is the most economical and the fastest, but there is a relationship to contact area of the crimped fitting and the wire grip for adequate contact and electrical transfer. There can be radio interferences generated here if the crimp is not done properly. If worried about it, add the solder like #3.
I crimp everything. I doubt you'll find any soldered connections in the original Toyota harness.
All auto makers, appliance makers, plane makers, etc. crimp their wire terminations. The only thing I would consider soldering would be the center conductor on a coax application.
All auto makers, appliance makers, plane makers, etc. crimp their wire terminations. The only thing I would consider soldering would be the center conductor on a coax application.
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- #177
Thats what I was thinking. ...soldering does sound very reasonable. Maybe I'll crimp and solder high vibration areas like the engine bay.
Great advice as always...thanx
Thanx for the response. ..I think they don't solder because in large manufacturing process they tend to use pneumatic crimps..faster and less tedious then heating the wire and letting the solder melt through.
But I agree that areas where environmental impact occurs would be better off being crimped..
Thank u
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- #178
That is most probably the way im heading. ....any known issues or advice on does and don't s.....??
Thanx
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For splicing a wire, insert the strands through the existing wire, then fold and twist over the existing wire and solder. Shrink if possible, otherwise, tape tightly and about 30mm each side of the joint. Wrap the tape at least two layers, one in each direction to offset the seams and direction of the wrap to deflect dripping water.
As BILT4ME stated above in post 175, this is how I solder my splices also.
As BILT4ME stated above in post 175, this is how I solder my splices also.
Just make sure you are using ELECTRICAL solder and NOT Plumbing solder. They have different flux core and the Plumbing solder will corrode when used on electrical wires.
Plumbing uses acid core and electrical uses rosin core.
Don't overheat the wires and melt the insulation too far back because that will also draw the solder way back in the wires and make them stiff to place back into the tight areas they will need to go.
Good Luck!
Plumbing uses acid core and electrical uses rosin core.
Don't overheat the wires and melt the insulation too far back because that will also draw the solder way back in the wires and make them stiff to place back into the tight areas they will need to go.
Good Luck!
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