- Thread starter
- #361
Some good info here on why the thermostat is important... simply removing it isn't a good call. Reducing temp like you've done is the right call. That link is for F/2F engines... but the bypass works the exact same in my 3F.
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Some good info here on why the thermostat is important... simply removing it isn't a good call. Reducing temp like you've done is the right call. That link is for F/2F engines... but the bypass works the exact same in my 3F.
Coolant
- Thread starter
- #362
So I'm planning to add a heater to the truck, but I'm not quite ready yet. Once temps drop enough here that I don't need AC I'll discharge the AC (again!) and then tear into the dash to do the heater job. The now-useless oil cooler pipe that ran along the engine will be replaced by the combined oil cooler/heater pipe. In the meantime, I ran a temporary single 5/8" coolant hose from the pump outlet direct to the oil cooler.
It's a bit inelegant, but I like Toyota's solution of a plug instead of multiple types of water pumps/thermostat housings. Without a heater Toyota specs this plug for the heater outlet on the thermostat housing.
And final coolant fill/burping...
The truck just feels smoother running now. I can't really put my finger on why. Maybe the new fan (balanced without a broken blade) and new water pump. The old water pump had some slight play in the shaft. What is really cool is how totally consistent the temp is now. No more fluctuation. Although temps have really eased off here in the last couple weeks.
These jobs aren't so bad when I've put the time/effort into having all the parts up front.
It's a bit inelegant, but I like Toyota's solution of a plug instead of multiple types of water pumps/thermostat housings. Without a heater Toyota specs this plug for the heater outlet on the thermostat housing.
And final coolant fill/burping...
The truck just feels smoother running now. I can't really put my finger on why. Maybe the new fan (balanced without a broken blade) and new water pump. The old water pump had some slight play in the shaft. What is really cool is how totally consistent the temp is now. No more fluctuation. Although temps have really eased off here in the last couple weeks.
These jobs aren't so bad when I've put the time/effort into having all the parts up front.
Light switch stalk; Wiper sprayers
- Thread starter
- #363
Since buying this truck the headlight switch stalk has been flimsy... it barely stays stuck in low-beam, often popping into high-beam when hitting a bump. I've had it switch to high-beam just by braking a bit hard. =) Frustrating. I've lived with it and built a habit of intermittently pulling on it to make sure it stays put. VERY annoying at night as I'm often flashing people... Argh!
Another mark agains the current switch stalk assembly, I can't use the wiper sprayer. I bought a new wiper sprayer motor AND fluid tank. I plugged it in sometime back but the motor wouldn't work. The female plug showed voltage when the switch was triggered... and the motor turned on when I jumped it to 12V... a few more tests with a multimeter showed that the switch stalk just couldn't deliver the current needed to run the motor.
Sad thing is I've just lived with this for over a year! I keep putting off the switch replacement for when I have time to clean up the entire steering column of all the fesh-fesh. Last week I'd had it though... and decided to just get it done. It's silly to have the part sitting in a box and keep holding my light switch. Also, I've needed the windshield sprayer a few times recently. So further impetus.
You can see here why the switch kept switching to brights...
Wheel ready to pull.
And my improvised Toyota steering wheel puller. I made this with what I could find in the UAE for doing the same project in my 80-series over there.
New assembly and old assembly.
And installed.
I did all new hoses and joints and sprayer nozzles on the hood before I put the new hood liner in. Here's where I left it.
The reservoir for trucks with a snorkel and other required parts.
Plumbed up.
And installed/filled.
The switches are so crisp! No more holding the stalk in place. And I have sprayers!!!
I'm putting a dent in my parts stash from the UAE...
Another mark agains the current switch stalk assembly, I can't use the wiper sprayer. I bought a new wiper sprayer motor AND fluid tank. I plugged it in sometime back but the motor wouldn't work. The female plug showed voltage when the switch was triggered... and the motor turned on when I jumped it to 12V... a few more tests with a multimeter showed that the switch stalk just couldn't deliver the current needed to run the motor.
Sad thing is I've just lived with this for over a year! I keep putting off the switch replacement for when I have time to clean up the entire steering column of all the fesh-fesh. Last week I'd had it though... and decided to just get it done. It's silly to have the part sitting in a box and keep holding my light switch. Also, I've needed the windshield sprayer a few times recently. So further impetus.
You can see here why the switch kept switching to brights...
Wheel ready to pull.
And my improvised Toyota steering wheel puller. I made this with what I could find in the UAE for doing the same project in my 80-series over there.
New assembly and old assembly.
And installed.
I did all new hoses and joints and sprayer nozzles on the hood before I put the new hood liner in. Here's where I left it.
The reservoir for trucks with a snorkel and other required parts.
Plumbed up.
And installed/filled.
The switches are so crisp! No more holding the stalk in place. And I have sprayers!!!
I'm putting a dent in my parts stash from the UAE...
I have a couple of the (non T-belt) speedometer overlays left if you still want one (had them both reserved for you actually since you mentioned wanting one in the other thread).
Seems like yours will be super easy to install using the "alternative option" since you have that covering over the tripodometer. Only downside the overlays stop at 160 instead of 180.
Seems like yours will be super easy to install using the "alternative option" since you have that covering over the tripodometer. Only downside the overlays stop at 160 instead of 180.
Outstanding ...
- Thread starter
- #366
Absolutely! Thanks so much.
Although taking a second look... I'd missed the 160 vs. 180 max. My 100 kph is at 12 o'clock... but on the overlay 90kph is at 12 o'clock. Can I change this with a different speedometer drive gear like on a 40? Although that will make my odometer be off won't it...
Hmm... let me give this some thought. They look so good!
I also realized that the km/h will be covered up as well. There are so many variations out there I am finding out. Sorry about that. That was one of the main reasons I decided not to make anymore as it takes a bit of work to make changes to the graphic file (I am not an expert at graphics).
- Thread starter
- #368
Dude, nothing to apologize for. Thanks for thinking of me... and yeah, for not being a graphic expert you did great. Did you just scan your actual gauge and then add the MPH and reprint on vinyl decal paper?
It is actually on magnetic paper so you can install/remove it at any time provided you have the metal version of the OEM speedometer face. No sticky residue or mess.
Yeah, the first thing I did was scan it for dimensions mostly. My example already had MPH on it so that saved me a lot of work there.
It is not too difficult to move around the original numbers/text or add new text/holes/etc to it while maintaining the original look. I have my own ways to do it but like I said...I am far from an expert. lol
Got mine in! Can't wait to put it in the housing. I need to replace all my bulbs anyway.
I’ll raise your 180 and see you with 210.
That is quite fast for a 70. If that was in my 77, the needle would rarely ever go past the 12 o'clock position.
210 KPH at 3,500 RPM. ..... very impressive.
PM sent
Oil Change; Compression
- Thread starter
- #375
While @TonyP and @jmlockwood play with their FTE's, I'm set in my ways on rollin' my 3F for the time being. The pocketbook says I'll have to get my diesel thrills vicariously through others for now.
The engine currently has 253,878 kilometers on the odometer... 157,752 miles. So there should be plenty of life left in this old tractor motor.
On that note... an oil change was due. I've been using Valvoline VR1 Racing oil. It has high zinc already in it and have been using it on my 40 with the 2F as well. I do wonder about using the smaller filter on such a high volume of oil.
Also, with my dad in town for Thanksgiving we tinkered with both trucks. He brought his engine compression tester as I've always wanted to do a compression test purely for reference.
We did a cold test.
Results.
And the specs.
I obviously don't hit the 14psi or less difference across the cylinders. This was a cold test. And we didn't try the "add oil" diagnostic.
Of course now that dad has headed back to KS and took his tester with him I really want to do a warm test to see if the difference between cylinders lessens at all. But for now, I'll keep truckin'.
The engine currently has 253,878 kilometers on the odometer... 157,752 miles. So there should be plenty of life left in this old tractor motor.
On that note... an oil change was due. I've been using Valvoline VR1 Racing oil. It has high zinc already in it and have been using it on my 40 with the 2F as well. I do wonder about using the smaller filter on such a high volume of oil.
Also, with my dad in town for Thanksgiving we tinkered with both trucks. He brought his engine compression tester as I've always wanted to do a compression test purely for reference.
We did a cold test.
Results.
And the specs.
I obviously don't hit the 14psi or less difference across the cylinders. This was a cold test. And we didn't try the "add oil" diagnostic.
Of course now that dad has headed back to KS and took his tester with him I really want to do a warm test to see if the difference between cylinders lessens at all. But for now, I'll keep truckin'.
FJBen
SILVER Star
While @TonyP and @jmlockwood play with their FTE's, I'm set in my ways on rollin' my 3F for the time being. The pocketbook says I'll have to get my diesel thrills vicariously through others for now.
The engine currently has 253,878 kilometers on the odometer... 157,752 miles. So there should be plenty of life left in this old tractor motor.
On that note... an oil change was due. I've been using Valvoline VR1 Racing oil. It has high zinc already in it and have been using it on my 40 with the 2F as well. I do wonder about using the smaller filter on such a high volume of oil.
Also, with my dad in town for Thanksgiving we tinkered with both trucks. He brought his engine compression tester as I've always wanted to do a compression test purely for reference.
We did a cold test.
Results.
And the specs.
I obviously don't hit the 14psi or less difference across the cylinders. This was a cold test. And we didn't try the "add oil" diagnostic.
Of course now that dad has headed back to KS and took his tester with him I really want to do a warm test to see if the difference between cylinders lessens at all. But for now, I'll keep truckin'.
I would go get a cheap compression tester and try it again. You already have a "baseline" if your Dad's compression test was accurate. If your new compression test has similar numbers, you can probably be safe to use it. If not, take it back I suppose.
I would do that WET test for sure if you get another low cylinder. That will tell a lot if it's rings or leaking valve.
Or you just drive the heck out of it and not worry unless something starts to happen. Do a valve check/setting, get in all PM'd and enjoy.
- Thread starter
- #377
Our first solo, "at-risk" trip in the Troopy was a small one. My confidence in this truck to take the place of our 80-series has been building. We made a day trip up to 7500' on the Mogollon Rim to go Christmas Tree hunting. We had a permit and a couple designated areas I'd previously scouted a bit. No one joined us and we took the single vehicle as a family. About an hour and half of pavement driving followed by 45 minutes of forest road driving. Saw few other people and had a great time.
We went to an area I'd found that had a lot of promise for a good tree.
Scouted around...
Had a picnic lunch...
And snagged a tree. Loading it sure was fun. Ha!
Man we need a heater...
We went to an area I'd found that had a lot of promise for a good tree.
Scouted around...
Had a picnic lunch...
And snagged a tree. Loading it sure was fun. Ha!
Man we need a heater...
- Thread starter
- #379
East... not far off the FR300 path. Not quite as far as Knoll Lake.
- Thread starter
- #380
Was getting a weird popping from my front passenger axle related to either suspension flex or turning movement... jacked up the front end and checked for wheel bearing play. I think I felt just the slightest amount of side-to-side play in both front hubs.
So I did tire rotation combined with re-setting the preload on the front hubs.
That didn't fix it. But it did give me a chance to clean out some muck/dirt/mud from the last couple trips. In the end I greased up the TRE's and the noise went away for a few days and came back. So, waiting on @cruiseroutfit to get the LHD set back in stock and I'll get that take care of. Same issue as @theglobb it would seem...
Anyway, one question. Is it okay that some of my birfield moly-grease has migrated into my front axle/hub area? The pink was my bearing grease and the gray is the CAT moly-grease.
So I did tire rotation combined with re-setting the preload on the front hubs.
That didn't fix it. But it did give me a chance to clean out some muck/dirt/mud from the last couple trips. In the end I greased up the TRE's and the noise went away for a few days and came back. So, waiting on @cruiseroutfit to get the LHD set back in stock and I'll get that take care of. Same issue as @theglobb it would seem...
Anyway, one question. Is it okay that some of my birfield moly-grease has migrated into my front axle/hub area? The pink was my bearing grease and the gray is the CAT moly-grease.
