PabloCruise
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YES!!!
Builds 1974 Pua'a
- Thread starter gonzopancho
- Start date
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YES!!!
gonzopancho
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- Thread starter
- #62
Gettin tired of corn teen, and not driving the pig, even though it’s over 100F every day here in ATX, and I don’t have AC or even heat right now.
Technically it’s out of registration, won’t pass inspection cause the horn doesn’t work. First things first.
So I got the pig started (all the gas was gone, maybe stolen), and pulled the pig back around into the shop.
Jumped 12V to each horn. Both work. Found the horn relay, but haven’t debugged past that yet.
“Charge” light stays on when running now. Maybe fix that next.
Technically it’s out of registration, won’t pass inspection cause the horn doesn’t work. First things first.
So I got the pig started (all the gas was gone, maybe stolen), and pulled the pig back around into the shop.
Jumped 12V to each horn. Both work. Found the horn relay, but haven’t debugged past that yet.
“Charge” light stays on when running now. Maybe fix that next.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Git er duuuuun!!
gonzopancho
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- Thread starter
- #64
OK. Bottom of the relay is marked ‘B’, ‘H’ and ‘S’.
The horn switch in the steering wheel (connected to the ‘S’ terminal on the relay) is supposed to close the circuit to energize the coil in the relay. It completes the circuit by connecting it to ground. Power comes from the ‘B’ terminal for both the control side and the load side. Load side is marked ‘H’.
Circuit diagram
Once the coil energizes, the relay engages and you pass 12VDC from the ‘B’ terminal to the horn terminal (‘H’).
So
• the ‘B’ terminal must have +12VDC on it.
• the ‘S’ terminal must be connected to the horn switch, which grounds, and
• the ‘H’ terminal must be connected to the horns.
Pressing the horn button should get you continuity in the socket only between ground and the one socket connector that connects to the ‘S’ post on the relay. Connectivity from the ‘H’ post has to carry 12V to the horn, and there has to be 12V to the ‘B’ terminal.
First things first. We have 12VDC with key off to one of the terminals. Lucky day; it’s ‘B’.
Shorting (jumper) between ‘B’ and ‘H’ makes the horn sound. Two for two.
To test the horn switch (in the steering wheel, connect test light to +12VDC (positive post on battery), stick the probe in the slot that takes the relay terminal marked ‘S’, and hit the horn buttons on the steering wheel.
Hit the horn buttons. The test light should light.I have video of this but it doesn’t want to upload on the phone. Had to down convert the video to 480p and 8fps to get it to upload, but that shouldn't be a problem for understanding what's occurring. I'm pressing each of the 3 horn buttons three times.
So the column is wired correctly, and the socket is wired correctly. Survey says: bad relay. It does look a little punk, and the innards rattle a bit when you shake it.
Ordered off fleabay, ($50! That’s 1% of my $5000 budget!!), but it takes a week to get here from Japan. I'm in Colorado next week, so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.
The horn switch in the steering wheel (connected to the ‘S’ terminal on the relay) is supposed to close the circuit to energize the coil in the relay. It completes the circuit by connecting it to ground. Power comes from the ‘B’ terminal for both the control side and the load side. Load side is marked ‘H’.
Circuit diagram
Once the coil energizes, the relay engages and you pass 12VDC from the ‘B’ terminal to the horn terminal (‘H’).
So
• the ‘B’ terminal must have +12VDC on it.
• the ‘S’ terminal must be connected to the horn switch, which grounds, and
• the ‘H’ terminal must be connected to the horns.
Pressing the horn button should get you continuity in the socket only between ground and the one socket connector that connects to the ‘S’ post on the relay. Connectivity from the ‘H’ post has to carry 12V to the horn, and there has to be 12V to the ‘B’ terminal.
First things first. We have 12VDC with key off to one of the terminals. Lucky day; it’s ‘B’.
Shorting (jumper) between ‘B’ and ‘H’ makes the horn sound. Two for two.
To test the horn switch (in the steering wheel, connect test light to +12VDC (positive post on battery), stick the probe in the slot that takes the relay terminal marked ‘S’, and hit the horn buttons on the steering wheel.
Hit the horn buttons. The test light should light.
So the column is wired correctly, and the socket is wired correctly. Survey says: bad relay. It does look a little punk, and the innards rattle a bit when you shake it.
Ordered off fleabay, ($50! That’s 1% of my $5000 budget!!), but it takes a week to get here from Japan. I'm in Colorado next week, so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.
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Did the test light light?
In you picture it doesn't look lit.
gonzopancho
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #66
Yes. The one picture where the test light isn't lit was just to show that I stuck the probe in the 'S' socket. The test light in that picture is connected to +12VDC, and wouldn't light until someone presses the horn button. My arms aren't long enough to reach from the PS fender to the steering wheel.
Everything checks out except the relay, which doesn't work. I took the lid off, applied 12V to 'B', and connected 'S' to the negative post on the battery, and the coil doesn't energize.
Were they hand-winding these in Japan back in the day, or did someone try to fix it? Doesn't look machine-wound.
Walked the dogs, wife complained that the DS mirror on her 62 shakes a bit. It's always something, right?
Everything checks out except the relay, which doesn't work. I took the lid off, applied 12V to 'B', and connected 'S' to the negative post on the battery, and the coil doesn't energize.
Were they hand-winding these in Japan back in the day, or did someone try to fix it? Doesn't look machine-wound.
Walked the dogs, wife complained that the DS mirror on her 62 shakes a bit. It's always something, right?
Cool stuff!
gonzopancho
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- Thread starter
- #68
Wanna see something cooler, possibly sadder?
I had a box in my office, complete harness from SOR (unknown year), 'cause this pig needs a harness.
I've never opened the box.
So I think, "hey, I'll work on the tailgate." It's missing a couple internal pieces.
So I go fetch the box from my office, where it's been for 18 months. I open it, dig pass the harness and what do I find?
Horn works!
That's awesome! My memory has gotten so bad, it seems to happen more that I want to admit. Except I order the new part before I find the one I ordered first.
gonzopancho
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- Thread starter
- #70
I did that too. It should ship from Japan and arrive next week (while I'm in Colorado).
I even have an appointment (yeah, yup) to re-register it when I get back, assuming I can get it to pass inspection now.
gonzopancho
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- Thread starter
- #71
Oddly, there is a second horn relay in the box, so now I'm flush.
on to the tailgate.
I now have the channels in each side of the tailgate. they were missing before. (Apparently I had a "parts gate".)
Yes, I know I will need to go back and replace the glass runs (rubber) in each side, but it's nearly midnight, and I don't have any of the correct adhesive in the shop.
Kinda wondering if there is a missing "pin" or "nail head" on the glass channel (bottom of the tailgate window).
Also, the little L-shaped tabs (pic copied from the "tailgate" article) ... can you buy them, or do you have to fabricate them these days?
Anyone have a drawing?
on to the tailgate.
I now have the channels in each side of the tailgate. they were missing before. (Apparently I had a "parts gate".)
Yes, I know I will need to go back and replace the glass runs (rubber) in each side, but it's nearly midnight, and I don't have any of the correct adhesive in the shop.
Kinda wondering if there is a missing "pin" or "nail head" on the glass channel (bottom of the tailgate window).
Also, the little L-shaped tabs (pic copied from the "tailgate" article) ... can you buy them, or do you have to fabricate them these days?
Anyone have a drawing?
gonzopancho
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- Thread starter
- #72
And because playing "Dress up Barbie with your FJ55 is always fun. New tail light lenses and emblems.
There is a pin. I have seen information in a thread somewhere on how to fabricate one but not sure where. Here is a pic of the parts with the pin in place. Can’t help you on the L shaped tabs.
gonzopancho
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- Thread starter
- #74
I think I’m gonna stop in Poncha Springs while I’m in Colorado next week and buy a bit more tailgate gear, and a couple other body items (door parts).
Swing by Idaho on the 27th and I'll fix your lower track or give you another.
Rear window article available from Gary S
Rear window article available from Gary S
Rear window article available from Gary S
Does the little rod and metal strip go together as shown?. Do they connect to the limiter on the right and the lever on the left where the spring is attached? I have not seen any pics on this particular connection? I know this is an old thread, but didn't see a reply to the question posted...
forum.ih8mud.com
gonzopancho
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- Thread starter
- #77
That's a really kind offer, and I really appreciate it, but I don't know if I can make PP20.
I (we) have a business to run, and we're in the middle of a product re-launch.
The subject did come up at Chez Gonzo, but wasn't well-received.
I get it, I also have a few of those and had six big projects dropped in my lap that have to be done before I can go camping with my buddies.
If anything changes on your end you are always welcome to come out and hang with us.
gonzopancho
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- Thread starter
- #79
Found on Pinterest. From before I owned the pig.
gonzopancho
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- Thread starter
- #80
Found on Reddit. Posted by the guy who bought it from @Cruiser Innovations. Picture taken around mid-2014 near St Vrain Rd and Hwy 36 in Boulder, CO. I plan to recreate it some day.
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