1974 Pua'a

Lil'John

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Mar 24, 2006
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Nor Cal in the garage with a Cruiser
I think that’s fairly common on a pig that’s been driven off road, I’ve had five pigs here at one time or another and several have had cracked A and B pillars.
Those pictures want me to take a look at my piggies. I don't recall any of them being cracked but with enough bondo/paint, nobody would know ;)

And there is nothing wrong with a nebula pig. It beats brown :p
 
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
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Boise Idaho
Those pictures want me to take a look at my piggies.
Pull the weather strip back and look at the corners to see if there is a crack starting to form, Scrapdaddy was the first to bring it to my attention.

Admittedly the cracks @gonzopancho posted are far worse than most I’ve seen, I suspect there is more to the story like hard driving at some point or mechanical failure with body mounts, cross members.
 

gonzopancho

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Dec 13, 2006
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Austin, TX & Golden, CO
I suspect there is more to the story like hard driving at some point or mechanical failure with body mounts, cross members.
My first thought when I spotted them was, “did someone jump this poor thing?”

@Cruiser Innovations did document that he replaced the body mounts. He never said anything about those cracks though. Maybe they didn’t exist then. Seems unlike him to do all that work and not address those.

Unfortunately, I didn’t spot them when I was buying it, and now I get to fix em.
 
Last edited:

PabloCruise

 
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
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18,242
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Northern Colorado
No factory volt meter that I know of, so yeah, it would have to be aftermarket. You basically connect the two ends of the amp meter wires to eliminate the amp meter. You then find a convenient 12v wire (that comes on with the ignition) to tie in the volt meter.
This is the abridged version. There’s much more in-depth information to be found in searches on the 40/55 tech section. I’m going off of memory from last year when I was doing searches on alternator alternatives and necessary wiring mods.
The terminal posts running to the amp meter came from the factory with little rubber boots on them. Not sure how many are still in place...

The first time I pulled the cluster out of the 40 I shorted one of those posts to the metal dash. I damn near s*** myself. Was I am dummy for not disconnecting the battery first? Yes. Is there a need to run 50 amps through the cluster? Debatable. I like the idea of going with a Volt meter...
 

RUSH55

 
 
 
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Oct 18, 2002
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Cottonwood, Az.
The terminal posts running to the amp meter came from the factory with little rubber boots on them. Not sure how many are still in place...

The first time I pulled the cluster out of the 40 I shorted one of those posts to the metal dash. I damn near s*** myself. Was I am dummy for not disconnecting the battery first? Yes. Is there a need to run 50 amps through the cluster? Debatable. I like the idea of going with a Volt meter...
Don’t think I ever once disconnected the battery in preparation of pulling the gauge cluster. Never had an issue, but can totally agree with the hazard. Knowing what your alternator is doing is handy, knowing what your battery AND alternator are doing is even better.
 

gonzopancho

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Dec 13, 2006
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Austin, TX & Golden, CO
My first thought when I spotted them was, “did someone jump this poor thing?”

@Cruiser Innovations did document that he replaced the body mounts. He never said anything about those cracks though. Maybe they didn’t exist then. Seems unlike him to do all that work and not address those.
Took a closer look, Josh (@Cruiser Innovations) painted the inside (and outside) of the truck fairly late in the build, between Feb and April 2012.

There isn’t paint in the cracks, so they cracked after the interior was painted.
1558921682823.png
 
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