The best year for an FJ40? (1 Viewer)

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S

Skilter

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The best year for an FJ40? (aka I may sell my 60.)

I have an 84 FJ60. It's in good condition and I have spent some money on it in the last 5 years with new pumps (obviously Smog was done) manifolds, etc. It would be hard to let it go, but I am thinking it will just not do it for me unless I put another $3000 in it for a 5 speed. I would like to look into an FJ40. I really think those trucks are cool and I just don't have the cash to hold onto both.

I would like it to have either a 5 speed or a SBC so that I can get down the highway at 75 mph on 33's and pull an ATV trailer. Knowing my distaste for the top end of the 2F FJ60 and the inability to "bolt in" a 5 speed for minimal cost, I am thiinking that just selling the 60 and getting into a "done" FJ40. Am I insane?

My question is... what are considered the best years for the 40 and why?

What are the pro's and con's of the SBC conversion?

Sitting on the fence...
andy
 
Last edited:
Ther are alot of topics you can search on this. First, read through the FAQ at the following site. The one on the tech links page no longer works:

http://www.birfield.com/modules.php?name=TLCFAQ

That will tell you the different options per year. 78 seems to be the favorite based on options and the fact the steel dosn't rust as easy as a 79+. The 79+ has power steering and some have air. Look at the link and doa search using the advanced button

Here is a sample search link I did for you. You will have to filter through, but there is a lot of info there:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/search.php?searchid=139388
 
Best year FJ40

IMO the best year of FJ40 is one that has the least amount of rust/body issues that you can find in your range.

Personally, I would much rather have a rust free older FJ40(1966-1975) than a rusty newer FJ40 (1976-1982)

Price those tubs before you consider a rusty 40 "project" as they can run similar $$ to that H55F installed price.

BTW- I dumped a 84 FJ60 for the same reason a couple years ago, one gear too few and for another $3500 I could have a 80 series.

Aaron
 
Riddler... at least I wasn't the only one who has gotten here the hard way!

Romer... Thanks for the links. I DIG your 40. The second link does not work for me.

Brian - if you don't do 70 on the highways in Texas, you get run over by big rigs and duallys. Trust me... I have been there before I did the gasket and manifolds on my 60. It ain't a fun place to be. At least now, I can do the speed limit. The trailer would just be an ATV.
 
Ok, in the second link, I went above to search. Selected the Cruiser Tech forum only. Typed in best year for an FJ40. The results ere the link I tried to post. Some of these results may not apply, but there is a lot of good information. I also agree with the above advice on Tub. Its very important to get a rig that has reapairavle (Not just bondo) rust.
 
Skilter....a giant lunchbox going down the road is hard to miss. Most will give you a wide berth. Anyways, I can do an easy 65 in an 1982 FJ40 due to the higher end on the rear. However, towing a short trailer with a short wheel base FJ40 on 33" at high speeds is just short of stupid.

I would look for a 350 conv. with an longer trailer, you might live longer. If you get a 350 conv, the year of the vehicle really doesn't matter much, as said above, the least amount of rust as possible. It's a cruiser, not a race car.
 
i have a 350 in my 76, love it but when i start pushing 65+ i get a little nervous, to fast for my fj
 
If you are going for a 40 that is already 350 converted, then your main concern is RUST. Earlier metal is almost always better than later metal, on a continuum. Put in shoulder straps if they aren't there. Obviously make sure that the conversion was done by a reliable mechanic. There are bad conversions out there.
 
Try early 70's , 7/70 to some time in 75 '. You get the firewall that accepts the boosted MC and the meatal os good , you will have to deal with the drums and the steering . I think you can find the mid 70's with a 4 spd too.
 
camcruiser13 said:
i have a 350 in my 76, love it but when i start pushing 65+ i get a little nervous, to fast for my fj
Click to expand...

I do 70 no problem with my 2F and 33" tires and stock diff (4.11). At 74 MPH I am running at 3000 rpm and I like to keep it below that.

It's no speed demon and going over Mtn passes It slows down.
 
V8 and five speed the 60 series....


Money further ahead in the long run, and deffinatly will ride and tow better than an 40 series...


Good luck!

-Steve
 
I agree with Poser. You already know the truck and the v-8/5 speed conversion would be straight froward but not cheap. It's obviously just my opinion, but in almost all circumstances, the FJ60 is a better truck than an FJ40. The one exception is tight trails, where the 40 will really shine. If you are towing anything, it's a no-brainer. Tow with a longer wheelbase. A 60 could tow an ATV trailer in stock form, just not fast. If you want to drive a Cruiser, tow a trailer, and go fast, get an 80 series.
 
Well, I have to listen to voices of wisdom. I see the points regarding towing. Maybe I just want a 40. I don't know. In reality, I have a Z71 Suburban that I can tow an ATV with, but I would like to take both my Cruiser out in the woods AND an ATV... guess you can't have your cake and eat it too.

In any event, I like the idea of having an open air cruiser and the doors just don't come off the FJ60. I could spend $3000 on a H55 conversion or sell the 60 and get into a nice restored 40. What I really want to do is to keep the 60, add the H55, and get a SBC converted 40. Then again... that move would probably cost me half my assets and a buttload of attorneys fees.

Thanks for all the replies!
 
Skilter said:
Also, if I found one with an old 2F, what is the cost to have a 350 conversion done?

Thanks again...
Click to expand...
A decade and a half after you posted this...but my dad went all in on his FJ40 conversion...

Corvette 350 with 220 heads
TH-350 AT
NP-205 TC
Custom racing axles (cut down from the family suburban I flipped and rolled my junior year in HS - 1993-1994)
Custom fuel tank
Custom gauges - He was an I&C guy so EVERYTHING had a button or switch
Custom radiator


The only thing he didn't do was lift it, because he had it lifted when he bought it (2")

He was $8k into the engine by itself once THAT was completed.

I think he was $12K total by the time the rig was finished (1995).
 
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