thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
I did see that holley has the 2300 base kit in shiney for 849!
Even better!
Even better!
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Being my '77 OEM carb uses the mechanical linkage, the gas pedal has a ball joint connection with no hand throttle option. The Sniper uses a throttle cable, thus I need to modify my set-up as needed. Can a few individuals with this same situation post up a pic of their lower bracket and connection you used?...'TIA'
Here’s how I attached a Downey cable to the tip of my mechanical linkage pedal arm that protrudes through the fire wall. I drilled and removed the riveted-on ball and replaced it with a cable fitting. Simple mod and you can always put a screw-on ball back on to return to stock. Bracket to hold the cable housing is 1/8 x 1-1/2 flat bar twisted, bent and screwed to firewall.
I get full linkage travel on the Sniper with about 80 percent of pedal travel. I could add a pedal stop to match but since I don’t like a sensitive pedal anyway, I plan to flatten the arm further up and move the cable fitting up. Or, (thinking as I type) I'll fab up a clamp on fitting to move the cable fitting further up the pedal arm so it's adjustable.
If you are able to fab a clamp-on style, think that there would be no need to remove the ball-joint? I'm looking to possibly use two of the existing firewall bolt locations to attached the cable bracket? Trying to not penetrate the fire wall with new holes.
Going by Holley’s diagram and instructions, you are attached to the Ford C4/C6 kickdown lever. They say to attach to position indicated “Throttle Stud/Ball” in the pic below which is on page 7 of “THIS” pdf from Holley.
However, I see no problem as you have it. I considered attaching it there but rejected it because of the bit of free play there and just ignored it. But after watching your video it seems to work great as the free play in the kickdown lever allows for any slack in the setup which will move the lever back a bit which does in your vid when you release the pedal.
As for matching the pedal & linkage travels that GAarchetect and I were discussing above, we were talking about correcting at the pedal end. (having mechanical linkage) Gauging the extra distance from center of the butterfly shaft, out to where you’re attached, just may give me the extra 20 percent pedal travel I’m looking for. That just may be the ideal setup. For me anyway. I don’t see a problem attaching it anywhere that works. Thanks for the vid. I’ll try that out.
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I'm running a stock distributor with Pertronix Electronic Ignition. It is not controlled by the sniper unit. Works fine.Very interested in this....what distributor are people using? Can you keep stock?
Stock should work, it just wont do timing control. It is a feature some people were interested in applying. Since I want to replace my dizzy anyway (vac retard running on mechanical advance only) I looked into it thinking I could get the benefits for the same cost or less than a DUI unit (have a Toyota dizzy I can use for parts like the gear) but I will probably end up doing HEI.Very interested in this....what distributor are people using? Can you keep stock?
I assume you don't have power steering in the right side. Correct?Making a prototype adapter to fit my factory air box. I’ll plastiweld and possibly see about having a friend 3D print. Otherwise should work well enough for me.
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