thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
I did see that holley has the 2300 base kit in shiney for 849!
Even better!
Even better!
Holley Sniper 2 barrel conversion (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 74fj40
- Start date
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mrboatman
GOLD Star
I bought the master kit thru Jeg`s about 3 years ago. Then registered it with Holley. About a year later the 3.5" display went out (it would jump from screen to screen) I contacted Holley and they sent me a replacement display no charge. The customer service thru holley has been great.
JP
JP
GA Architect
SILVER Star
Being my '77 OEM carb uses the mechanical linkage, the gas pedal has a ball joint connection with no hand throttle option. The Sniper uses a throttle cable, thus I need to modify my set-up as needed. Can a few individuals with this same situation post up a pic of their lower bracket and connection you used?...'TIA'
So I decide to try and run aluminum hard line. It’s easy to form and bend. Can be used with efi. The return is a long line while the fuel line is only to the junction of oem hard line. We will see how it goes.
Couple questions. Anyone have good pics of throttle cable linkage and how you hooked up? Also, if I use my carb insulator can I continue using hose from insulator to pcv valve or is it necessary to run it to the efi port?
.
Here’s how I attached a Downey cable to the tip of my mechanical linkage pedal arm that protrudes through the fire wall. I drilled and removed the riveted-on ball and replaced it with a cable fitting. Simple mod and you can always put a screw-on ball back on to return to stock. Bracket to hold the cable housing is 1/8 x 1-1/2 flat bar twisted, bent and screwed to firewall.
I get full linkage travel on the Sniper with about 80 percent of pedal travel. I could add a pedal stop to match but since I don’t like a sensitive pedal anyway, I plan to flatten the arm further up and move the cable fitting up. Or, (thinking as I type) I'll fab up a clamp on fitting to move the cable fitting further up the pedal arm so it's adjustable.
GA Architect
SILVER Star
If you are able to fab a clamp-on style, think that there would be no need to remove the ball-joint? I'm looking to possibly use two of the existing firewall bolt locations to attached the cable bracket? Trying to not penetrate the fire wall with new holes.
Yes. My initial measurements showed the travel at each end to be about the same so I just gave it a shot and removed the ball. Had I'd known or been more accurate with my measurements I could of left the ball and moved further up. I only thought about a clamp on adjustable mount as I was typing above. Seems like a great choice to not disturb anything stock and have it adjustable.
The full travel on my Sniper linkage using the upper mount to pull towards the firewall is 1-1/4"
I used the Lokar S-1034 fitting on the Sniper linkage except the threaded stud on the ball was small like 10-24 but the hole in the Sniper linkage was 1/4". I got a Holley Throttle Ball assortment and found one with the right ball size and a 1/4" stud. Not a biggy but It was just a better snug fit. I put the ball inward just to widen the radius of the last cable turn coming in to it.
Note that since I have no master cylinder in the way, (no brakes) the cable routing was easy. Not sure if you could route it like that around a master cylinder and a booster.
This was my original setup which worked fine. But I did get another cable from Downey made up a few inches longer just to smooth out the turns a bit. I've tried some other cables but like the ones from Downey since they are flexy and have the best ends that I could come up with. I've since added a hand throttle so that was more changes to the whole setup and still got more changes to come to make the hand throttle and the pedal less sensitive to suite my style of wheeling. You can always make it better lol.
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Didn’t realize how short the distance from cable at firewall to efi was. Chopped my old cable and fabbed a bracket. Anyone know if where my cable attaches on efi is proper? I’m assuming I can attached there or other part of linkage.
Going by Holley’s diagram and instructions, you are attached to the Ford C4/C6 kickdown lever. They say to attach to position indicated “Throttle Stud/Ball” in the pic below which is on page 7 of “THIS” pdf from Holley.
However, I see no problem as you have it. I considered attaching it there but rejected it because of the bit of free play there and just ignored it. But after watching your video it seems to work great as the free play in the kickdown lever allows for any slack in the setup which will move the lever back a bit which does in your vid when you release the pedal.
As for matching the pedal & linkage travels that GAarchetect and I were discussing above, we were talking about correcting at the pedal end. (having mechanical linkage) Gauging the extra distance from center of the butterfly shaft, out to where you’re attached, just may give me the extra 20 percent pedal travel I’m looking for. That just may be the ideal setup. For me anyway. I don’t see a problem attaching it anywhere that works. Thanks for the vid. I’ll try that out.
However, I see no problem as you have it. I considered attaching it there but rejected it because of the bit of free play there and just ignored it. But after watching your video it seems to work great as the free play in the kickdown lever allows for any slack in the setup which will move the lever back a bit which does in your vid when you release the pedal.
As for matching the pedal & linkage travels that GAarchetect and I were discussing above, we were talking about correcting at the pedal end. (having mechanical linkage) Gauging the extra distance from center of the butterfly shaft, out to where you’re attached, just may give me the extra 20 percent pedal travel I’m looking for. That just may be the ideal setup. For me anyway. I don’t see a problem attaching it anywhere that works. Thanks for the vid. I’ll try that out.
Thanks for the information. Was wondering what attaches where. I was worried about the slack. Figured it was a kick down. I’ll leave it there for now. Once it’s up and running I should know more.
Very interested in this....what distributor are people using? Can you keep stock?
mrboatman
GOLD Star
I'm running a stock distributor with Pertronix Electronic Ignition. It is not controlled by the sniper unit. Works fine.
Stock should work, it just wont do timing control. It is a feature some people were interested in applying. Since I want to replace my dizzy anyway (vac retard running on mechanical advance only) I looked into it thinking I could get the benefits for the same cost or less than a DUI unit (have a Toyota dizzy I can use for parts like the gear) but I will probably end up doing HEI.
Making a prototype adapter to fit my factory air box. I’ll plastiweld and possibly see about having a friend 3D print. Otherwise should work well enough for me.
ERNRAM
SILVER Star
Power steering pump from an fj62 on the passenger side.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
I found you can get any magnetic pick up dizzy to be controlled by the ecu.
But a couple things need to be done.
First you need to lock the advance. Second you need an adjustable rotor. If your dizzy can do that, your sniper brain can control it.
Hei dizzys are out there, and are capable of the above...
But a couple things need to be done.
First you need to lock the advance. Second you need an adjustable rotor. If your dizzy can do that, your sniper brain can control it.
Hei dizzys are out there, and are capable of the above...
