Builds My 1978 Nut and Bolt Frame Off Restoration (1 Viewer)

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Got my new stainless steel lines from $or. Very high quality.

Spent the morning getting them installed.

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New soft brake lines are going in.

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New motor mounts from Beno. Also started reinstalling the rear wiring harness.

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Got the radiator and fan belts installed too.

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New hoses from Beno.

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Here's where I deviated from OE Toyota parts. I bought a set of hose clamps from @Racer65 's storefront. These clamps are nearly identical to OE clamps, but are completely made of stainless steel instead of zinc coated steel. I'm really impressed with them.

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Thanks for sharing these photos. Amazing attention to detail. The way you're building the truck, it's well above Toyota's original standards. If there's a criticism of the original, it's that Toyota built these trucks to last 20 years rather than forever. After 20+ years all the hardware and metal parts are rusted. Your build will have corrected these shortcomings.
 
Thank you.
 
Started rebuilding the Warn hubs.

Before:

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After blasting and powdercoating:
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I'll go out later today and buy some stainless steel socket head hardware to put them back together.
 
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Done. Added cadmium nuts and stainless steel socket head bolts.

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Removed front pinion flange and seal. Blasted and powdercoated front flange. (I'm really starting to get the hang of the powdercoater). Also installed new dust deflector, and installed the pinion Nut with RTV as per @Bossman 's instructions.

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Front driveshaft is in.

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My beautifully powdercoated skid plate is also installed.

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Took a break, and restored the rear heater.

When I took it apart, it was completely caked in mud and grime. Appeared to have been submerged in the past and allowed to dry. Motor was completely sized. I decided to try and rebuild it, rather than buy a new one. Why? Because that's just who I am!

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Blasted and powdercoated all of the shroud and outer pieces. Blasted and cleaned out the inside of the core. I'll probably zinc plate the core to keep the steel fins from rusting.

Soaked the motor in PB blaster for a few days, then started taking it apart. Bushings were the culprit; the shaft had rusted to the inside of each bushing. After using a punch, I was able to remove the bushings. I then polished the inside of each bushing with 2000 grit sandpaper. Then mounted the shaft/winding assembly in my hand drill and used the drill as a lathe as I polished the shafts and electrical/brush contacts.

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Reassembled everything, oiled her up, and gave it a test-fire.

She works!

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As I stated earlier in the thread, I needed to address my front calipers. I had decided to buy a set of remans, but after looking at prices, and quite frankly the blandness of a reman, I started looking into rebuilding mine. There I go again....

They were pretty nasty to begin with.

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Disassembled, removed square cut seals, dust seals, snap rings, pins, bolts, o-rings, then blasted the hell out of them. Then wire wheeled the inside of each cylinder. Also polished each piston.

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Then degreased and painted with high temp silver and a high temp clear coat. Also found new zinc hardware.

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Ordered a rebuild kit, along with new guide pins, spring clips, etc. Also got a new set of pads, courtesy of another member. Of course added a little cadmium too.

Total cost of rebuild: ~$30 and a few hours of labor.

Finished:

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Got the front calipers mounted.

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Also got to install my new set of OE acorn lug nuts from Beno.

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Installed my new OE hubcaps.

Beautiful.

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Got around to mounting the front shackles.

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Then a buddy came over yesterday and we installed a new gasket on the inspection cover, correctly installed the DUI distributor (we think....), tackled the rear drums (only to find that one of the cylinders is leaking and will need to be rebuilt or replaced), and we also did the oil galley plug modification.

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Tapped

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Exhaust blasted, painted, and installed.
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Decided to blast and powdercoat the valve cover too.
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If you decide you want to rebuild let me know. I have two rebuild kits from cruiser outfitters that I ordered and then decided to go all new cylinders. I can send a rebuild kit to ya for just shipping (6 bucks for a USPS small flat rate). Depending which one it is I might have a rebuilt one too (I rebuilt two then found the other two were no good)

otherwise its looking great!
 
Hard fuel lines ready for installation. Are they new? Nope. Lots of elbow grease, and a high temperature clearcoat. I think they turned out beautifully.

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Installed

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