Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (13 Viewers)

[roadstr6]

The float tang is adjustable. It has obviously been adjusted before. Maybe several times. Adjustment of the tang on the float sets the level of fuel in your bowl. If it has been halfway up the sight window in the last few weeks I wouldn't mess with it. As I recall you were having problems with the engine running without the choke. When cleaning the carb, pay special attention to the idle circuit. Pull the ICS and blow out and snake out with wire (if you can) all the nooks and crannies related to that part of the carb. Hopefully you'll put your carb troubles to rest. Good luck!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Its been a smidge over half... This is why I am concerned with the waviness of that piece.

 

[roadstr6]

There are specs on float adjustment. IMO they are only a general guide. I suspect that the needles in the rebuild kits nowadays may be a smidge taller or shorter than the original pieces, throwing off the numbers very slightly (my theory). The only sure way to tell if you've adjusted it right is to put it all back together, hook it up, run the truck and check your sight window. Remove, disassemble, adjust, repeat. It sucks. That's why I said that if it was close not to fool with it much. A little goes a long way with the float adjustment. It is very easy to overdo it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Agreed and understood. I pulled out my feeler gauge and measured it with calipers and checked from the housing to the edge of the float and it was a few mm too deep so its set exactly to 6mm now. And the gap from the pin to the float tang (laughing) eyeballs right to me (I have no match from a matchbook nor a feeler narrow enough to fit).
And yes the needle valve that you see pictured is the one from the kit. I wish I had put mine from my trucks carb in instead as it had more of a point but its been shipped off with my carb as a core exchange for this one.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

So I reinstall the carb horn. ** edited: It took quite a bunch of fidling to get the truck off choke. I did finally get it there and maybe at this point I screwed around too much with the diz position and the IM. I did note that it seemed like regardless of the amount of turns out the IM was when I tried to screw out the IS screw to lower my rpms she would just begin to bog so then I'd screw it back in some. I'll be honest I probably just don't get exactly how to do the lean drop plus the fact my timing is most likely off.

I have IM out about 5 turns (at sea level in CT). I can't get her to idle down past 1200 and yes I have f'd around with the timing simply by vac gauge and ear so the retaining bolt is just about middle. No I do not know what the actual advance number is as the pos timing light I bought is just a pos inductive light. (Catching my annoyance here?!)
Truck acts like a purring cat, purr (revv), calm (bog), purr (revv)... in that sort of pattern off choke. If I pull up on the gas pedal sometimes it wants to bog down and stall, but sometimes not. I have taken apart all the throttle linkage and cleaned the contacts well.
Then I shut the truck down and tighten the alt belt as I could see it bowing as the truck does the bog in the pattern. I start the truck without choke (truck has now been running for well over 30 mins) and it doesn't want to idle without some gas then it seems to catch and starts to idle almost to 2K. I get out and eyeball the belt and the carb and notice I can see no line in my carb sight window. I look at my fuel pump and see no drips from the weep hole.
I just don't fxxxing get it. So I chose to wave the flag of defeat and shut her off and she wicked bad bad bad diesels like never before. Ok, I get it timing is too advanced.
But tell me, would tightening the alt belt affect it that much? And what the f about the fuel in the sight window?
I am so up to "here" with this fxxxing truck.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

So I sit here and stew... I go back out and turn the IM screw back in to seat then out two turns and try to fire her up. Nothing. Bitch will only crank.
I'm in now tho. Too friggen cold to the bone to go back out there anymore.

 

[micruz60]

Grr.

I am not certain, but the idle circuit can be partial clogged, making the idle frequency waver.
And after shutdown, the vacuums all quit, allowing the junk to migrate / float to another cranny and foul further efforts.
Occams razor: it is in the carb, try the float arm adjustment back to the other direction, like Dave said, it is a try, try agin...
Good Luck!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

But the level was quite good right after I reinstalled it. The level went high after I tightened the alt belt. No logic from what I can understand.

 

[Cgbeachbum]

But the level was quite good right after I reinstalled it. The level went high after I tightened the alt belt. No logic from what I can understand.

When I did my carb rebuild, I found my screen on the float needle seat to be pretty nasty, as with a lot of internals, did you notice that when you put the screen back on. Also, In the carb rebuilds I've done in the past... and present, I use a lot of round toothpicks to clean my jets, just abrasive enough to clean the tarnish but not enough to change any sizes... just got to be careful that you don't snap a piece of wood in the holes. The idle circuits on a carb are the most complicated and picky... they are a PITA when something goes wrong... you put a new fuel pump on, so you can do a spill back test where you pull the supply line to carb and dump it into a container as you crank it over, this at least shows that your getting flow. From there your fighting something in the carb like your float and needle... correct me if Im wrong Mudders, I honestly can't see why a belt adjustment would affect your fuel as its driven from the cam... just some thoughts...

 

[Cgbeachbum]

Oh and I think dremel should sponsor you... That little piece of rotary magic is your 60's key to success... operator included!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

@Cgbeachbum I replaced that part (it's escaping me now) that the needle valve sits inside. So it is super clean and intact.
My son is just falling asleep and tho it's raining and gross outside I maybe go try to start her. I'm feeling really anxious since yesterday's conclusion of a no start.
I've changed the alt which is kinda huge when it comes to the truck. And yes the pump is brand new.
Until I get a new timing light w/ tach and advance readout plus a compression gauge I'm not going to crazy yet. But I'm sorta feeling pulling my intake is in my future.
I also have been trying to get a good solid grasp on why a diz gets received post desmog. Pinging ok I've read that and I've seen folks say they retard to lesson pinging. So recurving allows the diz to advance more? ** edited: it makes the diz advance less.

Quoting here from someone who worded it in a way that make sense and I can almost envision it... "I think it is common knowledge that desmogging an FJ60 and recurving the distributor go hand in hand. The distributor was set up to optimize performance based on a vehicle with the emissions equipment in place. Once all that stuff is removed the distributor provides too much advance and the advance comes in before you really need it and runs out when it is needed the most. Simply leaving the distributor and timing alone will, in most cases, cause pre-ignition or pinging when the truck is under load. There are a couple of band-aid fixes that will allow you to drive the truck but the results are far from optimal. One fix is to reduce the initial timing to the point that the pre-ignition goes away. This method can cause hard starts and stumbly idle and the truck will feel sluggish and under powered. The other band-aid fix is to leave the initial timing alone and run the truck with the primary advance from the carb connected to the secondary port on the distributor. The second method cured my pinging and allowed me to drive my truck for several months issue-free. It still felt sluggish though and I started to think hard about a dizzy recurve."

I would so give anything for some really clear simple drawings of how parts interact w/ each other in action.
When I was a kid Linda Carter (the actress who played Wonder Woman) was the apple of my eye. I'd give anything for my truck to be see through like her jet was.

 

[Cgbeachbum]

At the base of the that needle seat (the cylinder that the needle valve goes in), before you screw it in, there should be a little screen (filter) that keeps debris from getting into your float bowl. Maybe you didn't have one, they don't come in the rebuild kits.. my second carb was missing one. They easily crack over time and they just slip right onto the collar base of that seat/guide. If it not there, then thats not your problem, unless you got a big enough piece of junk to clog the hole thing. Don't be like me, check the system logically. Ensure you have fuel flow to the carb... that will at least give you an idea where to look.
As far as the alternator, as long as you have a charged battery, you should be able to start the engine, Unless the Mudder Warriors correct me. The power to the truck is all provided by the battery, your alternator just keeps a correct charge on the demand of said power. Saw your thread on the hairline crack on the manifold, while it will make the truck run rough with a lean condition, that wouldn't prevent it from starting.
Did you replace both gaskets on the manifold to Carb spacer? When I did my carb the first time, i didn't and found a major leak there as well as the tube that come out of it.. had to JB weld that one...
I know, I'm not giving you the smoking gun, out side ideas help, as you did with my latest issue...

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

As I said my screen is brand new and intact.
And yes I replaced both gaskets on either side of the thick black spacer that is attached to the insulating plate.
I didn't go out yesterday and try to start heras the weather stayed pretty nasty.
And I've check my fuel flow... I've done that test before as shown earlier in my thread so I can try it again too.
I'll check my battery volts too.
Thanks for attempting to guide me.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Okay so I have been ardently and obsessively reading about the emissions computer and after looking at an electrical diagram that @Output Shaft linked to @gregnash's thread on it, I am adding a pix of the said green clips I am up in the air on what they are aside from one being for the headlight washer motor which I do not have hooked up.(** Grr, that pix stinks, I'll get another.)
(And please I know that entire area is a horrid mess of grim and dust... It has since been cleaned but I can't get a pix cuz the truck is under nearly 7" of snow since 6AM.)

 

[gregnash]

I think I remember one of the guys (@Spike Strip) saying that there were other plugs in the engine bay that seemingly connected to nothing as they were a hold over for extra options and/or items that would be added to the FJ62 (on those old gen FJ60s like yours). I have the same thing I believe and I just tucked them in the fender.

 

[woytovich]

Blood!... very nice.

 

[60tex]

Yota, thanks for chiming in on my thread re: the fusible link. I'd stumbled across this thread a little earlier, and was pretty impressed! I have a couple of young boys and a one year old daughter, and hope to get them all comfortable with a wrench in their hands. "Dare me" is right. DIY'ing life isn't so different than DIY'ing your Land Cruiser. Tip of the hat.

By the way, digging the bumper stickers on the power wheel. Well, except the horns...

 

[gregnash]

Fel, did you get your carb dialed enough for her to start yet? Remember that the 2 turns out of the IM screw is nothing more than a recommendation, try turning out another half turn and see if she starts. Again these things are somewhat temperamental so you will have to fiddle, and fiddle, and fiddle some more. Hell I am still messing with BeBe's occasionally. There should be absolutely no reason that tightening the ALT belt would increase the flow of gas in your carb and make the float level go up. When you rebuilt did you CLEAN everything in carb cleaner?

You could also try and Oakie carb cleaning... get the truck running and idling then take a piece of cardboard or a welding glove and choke off the carb. If it doesn't die then you know you have a large vacuum leak somewhere. If it does then you are good to go... Try doing this and then revving the engine slightly and then choke it off. Basically the premis is that the vacuum from choking it off SHOULD pull anything that may be semi loose and clogging jets, passages, etc. out of there.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I got her running again yesterday off choke tho she is not happy about it.
She sounds ragged esp compared to a quick clip of @CaptClose truck from at some point.
I'll give the okie test a try... think my fireplace gloves would be thick and strong enough to choke it out.
I'm well aware of the IM.... 2 turns on a new off the factory line truck... a 30 year old truck might need 3+...
I just ordered a better timing light w/ tach and advance settings and a compression gauge. I'm gonna try those before pulling the diz to recurve (ah, another rebuild to log into my thread) and then the intake.
I found a list of machinists here in town... 15 or so. Gonna call them all and feel them out. Will be interesting conversations being that I'm a woman seeking their assistance.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Mega snow.