1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Work In Progress aka: Badass

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by NeverGiveUpYota, Jan 20, 2017.

  1. NeverGiveUpYota

    NeverGiveUpYota Dare me. SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,091
    Likes Received:
    497
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    East Hampton, CT
    Okie Rebuild: I made a double thickness piece of cardboard with a small hole for the carb bolt and put on a fireplace glove... Choke pulled out about 1/2 way, truck was mostly warm. Placed the cardboard and the glove on left hand and revved the throttle linkage... truck slightly lowered RPMs but would not stall out at all. I tried it 5 times and all the same. Huge leak... if not just that hairline crack at ground zero in the intake right below the carb.
    Do I even bother to try to set the timing now that I have a decent light? And compression? I bought a gauge, do I bother?

    And have a chuckle... cuz I know you all will. I had a guy show up at work last night. I took care of him and he comes back to visit. He and I got along really well cuz he does lots of his own repair work on everything he owns... He has three old two door Broncos... a 69 and an early 80's I think and the other is just parts. I told him about trying to choke it out and the limited reaction then showed him the pix of the crack. He right away says "JB Weld it! I've used that stuff for all sorts of things and it works great. Just dremel out the edges of the crack and clean it really good with straight acetone." Whats mud say? ;))
     
  2. Spike Strip

    Spike Strip Adorable Deplorable SILVER Star

    Messages:
    11,282
    Likes Received:
    1,247
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2005
    Location:
    Korruptafornia
    If the JB weld ever comes loose and gets sucked into the engine, you risk catastrophic failure. Or even just failure. Or even just some really really annoying things like broken valves or hole in a piston or scored cylinder wall or ...

    Besides, your leak has to be bigger than that hairline crack.

    I would only use the JB if you had no other alternative - but you do.

    Bite it: the manifold must come off. Not nearly as onerous if most of that smog crap is missing.
     
    NeverGiveUpYota and gregnash like this.
  3. gregnash

    gregnash GuiltyByAssociation SILVER Star

    Messages:
    7,449
    Likes Received:
    1,362
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    Yup time to take the manifold off and take it to a shop to see if it can be welded up. Also, have the surface decked PROPERLY to ensure flatness. New manifold gasket and bolts are in order too.

    You are sure that the cardboard is covering the top of the carb with no gaps correct? Also try doing the okie rebuild at standard idle.. wondering if the choke may be messing with things. But like @Spike Strip said, time to start hunting down those leaks!
     
    roadstr6 and NeverGiveUpYota like this.
  4. NeverGiveUpYota

    NeverGiveUpYota Dare me. SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,091
    Likes Received:
    497
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    East Hampton, CT
    Ah. Yes thank you. Laughing I wasn't envisioning where a chunk, and it wouldn't be large, could go if it let go. Point taken!
     
  5. NeverGiveUpYota

    NeverGiveUpYota Dare me. SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,091
    Likes Received:
    497
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    East Hampton, CT
    Hole in the cardboard was fairly small maybe tiny gaps around the bolt but I could feel it pulling through all the layers but it just wasn't enough. It makes sense. I can give it a try again tho w/ a smaller hole (or remove the bolt and a intact piece of cardboard) and try to get it off choke but all the threads I read said if it was w/ the choke pulled it was fine.
     
  6. Juggernaught

    Juggernaught SILVER Star

    Messages:
    935
    Likes Received:
    189
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2009
    Location:
    NH
    The phenolic block with attached heat shield just below the carb is another common source of cracks and leaks. Still available OEM but pricey.
     
    gregnash likes this.
  7. gregnash

    gregnash GuiltyByAssociation SILVER Star

    Messages:
    7,449
    Likes Received:
    1,362
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    Actually not overly bad.. you can pick up through Amazon for a little over $100..
     
    Juggernaught likes this.
  8. NeverGiveUpYota

    NeverGiveUpYota Dare me. SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,091
    Likes Received:
    497
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    East Hampton, CT
    The one I have in there is pretty much pristine. I'll check it out when I tear her down again. Thanks for the tip tho.
     
  9. roadstr6

    roadstr6 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,227
    Media:
    39
    Likes Received:
    1,785
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2013
    Location:
    Weddington, NC
    Try blocking off the carb at idle with no choke as gregnash suggested. Having the choke pulled may keep it running when it should die. Removing the manifolds, truing up the mating surface and welding up that crack can only help. It can't hurt.

    I've said this before. I'll say it again. The Trollhole carb really does work great for a desmogged truck. Racer65 sells a Japanese-made one as well. I have a Trollhole on my 40 and on my 60. When I replaced my Aisin with a Trollhole my truck ran much better and with more power than ever before. Maybe it's the jetting? Maybe it's that the Trollhole doesn't have all the unneeded ports that otherwise have to be blocked off with rubber nipples that require constant checking and fiddling to ensure that they are not leaking vacuum. The Trollhole required very little adjustment to tune. Maybe a 1/4 turn on each of the screws using the lean drop method to get it dialed in. Took 10 minutes.
     
  10. NeverGiveUpYota

    NeverGiveUpYota Dare me. SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,091
    Likes Received:
    497
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    East Hampton, CT
    Gotcha Dave but I'm not in a position to toss down $300+ right now at all.
     
  11. NeverGiveUpYota

    NeverGiveUpYota Dare me. SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,091
    Likes Received:
    497
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    East Hampton, CT
    Pulled the air cleaner and the carb.... found two caps on the upper ports completely cracked through.
    Sprayed the manifold bolts w/ PB yesterday and will keep it up for the next few. Spoke to local welder and machinist in the same building no less here in my town. I actually had spoken to an entirely different welder and he was totally cool about just swinging by and if he could do it right then he would. So then moved on the my list of machinists and after leaving one message and then having the next 7 on the list come up as "this number no longer listed" the last one listed mentioned a welder below him in the same old brick factory building. Guy says "yea I believe he has a Toyota too that he rock crawls." I chuckled to myself and figure I gotta at least go check him out.
    And looks like I need a new rubber gasket for my air cleaner cover or a way to reattach it as it's pulling off one side.

    IMG_3658.JPG

    IMG_3652.JPG

    IMG_3654.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
  12. NeverGiveUpYota

    NeverGiveUpYota Dare me. SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,091
    Likes Received:
    497
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    East Hampton, CT
    Also someone tell me, what is that silver coloured thing between the block and my manifold? Is it just simply the gasket? It's really thick and I can read a clear 'front' w/ an arrow on the fan side edge. Thing seems pretty much new. Lots of red RTV visible as well.
     
    gregnash likes this.
  13. 4Cruisers

    4Cruisers SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,086
    Likes Received:
    427
    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    Yep, that's the manifold gasket. If everything is machined correctly and a quality gasket is used (and properly installed/torqued) there shouldn't be any sealant.
     
    NeverGiveUpYota likes this.
  14. NeverGiveUpYota

    NeverGiveUpYota Dare me. SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,091
    Likes Received:
    497
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    East Hampton, CT
    Great that's what I figured. Not a good sign.
     
  15. gregnash

    gregnash GuiltyByAssociation SILVER Star

    Messages:
    7,449
    Likes Received:
    1,362
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    Yup it is the manifold gasket and looks similar to OEM one I got from Onur (twice). I can be installed backwards to when reinstalling be sure that the <--Front actually points that way because otherwise there really is no indicator as to how it goes on.
     
    NeverGiveUpYota likes this.
  16. NeverGiveUpYota

    NeverGiveUpYota Dare me. SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,091
    Likes Received:
    497
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    East Hampton, CT
    Twice? I musta missed that. You did yours two times? Lol, I learn best by doing things multiples times too. :)
     
    TallCanDan, gregnash and CaptClose like this.
  17. gregnash

    gregnash GuiltyByAssociation SILVER Star

    Messages:
    7,449
    Likes Received:
    1,362
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    LOL yeah... I thought it was causing a vacuum leak and couldn't remember if I had paid attention to the markings. Plus not being able to see the <---F marking made me believe it was backwards. I had already run it a couple hundred miles so I figured I would just replace since the gasket wasn't overly expensive. Ends up that the manifold wasn't machined properly causing a slight vacuum leak at the interface, should have kept the second gasket and doubled up (which many have said is an OK temporary solution).
     
    NeverGiveUpYota likes this.
  18. NeverGiveUpYota

    NeverGiveUpYota Dare me. SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,091
    Likes Received:
    497
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    East Hampton, CT
    Funny how every time I go to work on the truck I start throwing layers of warm wear off... it appears as if the truck was stripping. Manifolds off. Bolts had been liberally coated in anti-seize so getting them loose wasn't an issue. That little 14mm bolt closest to the firewall was a wench... At times like that I am grateful to be a female with semi small hands... I can't imagine the hell that would have been with big man hands. Yikes. And the heat shield, that friggen things is a tetanus shot waiting to happen; sharp/coarse as hell.
    The intake is darn light... being that its aluminum but wow was that exhaust a surprise once it let go of the block, even moreso since my crappy little step stool and my driveway love to chose at those exact moments to play bad dance partners. I didn't drop it but had to hang on and drop to the ground while managing to lift that thing up and out of the engine bay and only being 5'5" tall at the same time. Quite a fair amount of grunting ensued.

    Hairline fracture is definitely a leak... thick carbon built up on the opposing side.

    EGR pipe crimped all s***ass and the gasket was literally degraded and fell apart once I pulled the bolts. Glad I have one I bought awhile back. I don't really need to ask if there is a block off plate avail... or I'll find a aftermarket on and cut it to fit and ditch that ugly pipe altogether.

    IMG_3666.JPG

    IMG_3667.JPG

    IMG_3670.JPG

    IMG_3704.JPG

    IMG_3687.JPG
     
    78fj40mg and CaptClose like this.
  19. NeverGiveUpYota

    NeverGiveUpYota Dare me. SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,091
    Likes Received:
    497
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    East Hampton, CT
    By my eye my straightedge and the intake manifold looks really good. Zero pitting or bubbling like I have seen on others who hadn't had theirs machined yet. Exhaust levelness I am unsure of... two middle sections are flat but when I extend out the straightedge to the outer section they have a few mm step up? Gasket itself was coated in red RTV both sides. When I pulled the gasket on the block I believe the middle section was the most liberally coated in RTV which makes me think that the exhaust manifold does have to be machined (so that those two outer sections are the same levelness of the inner sections which means the intake will need to be as well.

    I have yet to really look at the block and start cleaning up the surface.

    IMG_3693.JPG

    IMG_3700.JPG

    IMG_3707.JPG

    IMG_3706.JPG

    IMG_3686.JPG
     
    78fj40mg and CaptClose like this.
  20. NeverGiveUpYota

    NeverGiveUpYota Dare me. SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,091
    Likes Received:
    497
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    East Hampton, CT
    J pipe appears solid tho its ugly as anything inside the flange edge. In the dark I held a bright flashlight inside it and outside it and could not see light through.
    Shhh, I know, yeah nasty hands. I wear gloves all day at work... I just don't have the patience to use them for small work ie: twisting bolts ect on the truck. I don't need any lecture on the chemicals ect. I've been through some nasty stuff in life so a little chemicals seeping in to my pores is the least of my worries.

    IMG_3681.JPG

    IMG_3685.JPG
     
    78fj40mg and CaptClose like this.