Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (14 Viewers)

[Cgbeachbum]

Alright Fel, where did you find the dizzy recurve info? One specific write-up that I am not seeing or gathering from multiple?

Diz recurved. New aluminum bushing, new springs. Found that the secondary port on my vac advance pot doesn't work. Blew air thru both and only get movement thru the primary. Thankfully the primary does work and won't need to replace it. They aren't cheap, looks like you can get them through autozone for $115.
Cleaned up the housing really good and all the other parts. Not all the way together yet but vastly better. (Will add pix when I'm totally done).
When I drilled out the bushing I wrapped it in the bag it came in vice which also made it easier to hold. Used an 11/64 drill bit to open it it up some and using the bag made it easier to turn to put more pressure on the ID w/ the bit. Then tapped it over the advance stop pin. Went on snug and secure.

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Alright Lady Cruiser! May i partake in your infinite knowledge on a self re-curve? Would love to send my Dizzy to JimC, but I don't have the luxury of the truck being down... Pretty please?

 

[BGarcia88FJ62]

I too would appreciate this info.

 

[roadstr6]

This is not my thread so I hope Felicity won't mind too much if I interject. Felicity's recurve is based on a home-brew $17 DIY recurve that I did on my own 60. The information on how I did mine can be found in post #154 in my build thread. Link is below.

The Rushing Turdle

I want to say something here. There are folks here on this forum for whom working on cruisers is their livelihood. I have to respect that. For me to suggest that doing my DIY recurve is somehow better than what you get if you pay one of the vendors on this forum would be preposterous. What it is is a cheap solution that you can do yourself. Down time is two hours, not two weeks or two months or whatever the wait time is for a real recurve. Try my recurve if you want. If you don't like it, there are people who do this for a living who can fix you up all proper-like. 'Nuff said.

 

[CuCruiser]

Apologies to Fel for yet another intrusion onto her thread. What I did was get a used dissy on car-part.com and sent it off to JimC. I ran Dave's springs in the meantime. So if anyone wants the MSD springs for postage let me know.
JimC's recurve is the single best thing I have done for the engine. So smooth.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

All good. If it helps some of us super poor cruiser owners so we can put more $$ toward other necessary fixes then it's a bonus. That's how I see all of this.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Apologies to Fel for yet another intrusion onto her thread. What I did was get a used dissy on car-part.com and sent it off to JimC. I ran Dave's springs in the meantime. So if anyone wants the MSD springs for postage let me know.
JimC's recurve is the single best thing I have done for the engine. So smooth.

No intrusion at all!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The molasses dip at 6 days....

 

[gregnash]

Wow looking good... So what's the verdict on the intake? Was it able to be welded up?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Waiting on a call back. Left him a message yesterday. Will call again tmrw.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

So I swung by the welders today cuz you know, tad anxious and two calls and no call back. He was cool. Said the powder coater above him has an oven and its been baked once (200*) but they want to bake it again before the weld. Figuring another week. I told him I was trying to not rush him but haven't ordered the gaskets yet in case it doesn't happen... his words "Oh its gonna happen!"

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

It was close to 50 when I got out of work today so seeing as I have my diz pulled and I'd recently picked up a new cork gasket I'd pull my side cover.
Got all the 10mm bolts except the top right corner. I had no choice but to loosen the alt belt and pull the bracket off to get to it.
Then I had to use a paint scraper and a smaller hammer to break the crusty old seal.
Cool to see the push rods up close. Course seeing them is a first so looking at the valve stem seals it's interesting to see they are at different levels.... is that correct? I marked up pix (red circle) to explain my poor choice of words...

 

[CuCruiser]

Nope those are lifters. They ride on the cam. Valve seals are under the valve springs on the head. They should keep excess oil from going down the valve guides and into the combustion chamber.
Never had the cover off, it doesn't leak and I gather that is a bit tricky to achieve, so leaving well enough alone. It is cool to see, looks nice and clean.

 

[Spike Strip]

Normal. And just a reminder: Make sure all those holes are flat, if they've been over-tightened.

 

[Jdc1]

Great thread. I sneak into the 60 section every once in awhile and make sure i read your updates.

Top side of push rods:

Valves:

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Great thread. I sneak into the 60 section every once in awhile and make sure i read your updates.

Top side of push rods:

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Valves:

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Yes thank you. Been up close and personal w/ mine when I did a valve adjustment a while back. I highly appreciate the kudos.
@CuCruiser thank you for the clarification.
And @Spike Strip, will do!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The cover has significant lacking around the edges... pixs of the gasket still stuck on the cover where you can see oil was seeping through the lower corners.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Scrapped and cleaned the side cover mating surface while kiddo napped. Then he and I cleaned up the cover tonight with a wire wheel on my drill. Battery operated black and decker but its going on 10+ years and still does what I need it to do (I have had to buy new batteries once, and seriously need to go electric soon since the batteries are nearly $20 a pop).
And a pix of a few gaskets for the manifold @Cruiser Jimmy had kicking around that he didn't need... Thanks Jim!

 

[CuCruiser]

Are you going to put in a solid block-off plate above the heat riser?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I wasn't planning on it. To lessen the chances of the weld from cracking? Is that why?

 

[CuCruiser]

You got it. It's a little extra work, you have to trim the flap or remove it. I think warmup is fine with the solid plate, and a little extra insurance against future cracks.