NeverGiveUpYota
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- #241
It's something to think about. I'll do some reading and asking around. Thanks for the question.
Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
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Or you could throw in some headers... get rid of that heat relationship between intake and exhaust that tends to overheat the intake and crack upon expansions and retractions... at least for a desmog. Get that air flow between the intake and exhaust. Not cheap, but...
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
But that also doesn't take into account those of us in colder temps that really need the heat riser to help warm things up on cold days.
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #244
How much time before flash rust? It's indoors now and have a high heat temp paint in hand...
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Usually will start pretty quickly I think... hence FLASH RUST. You can spray WD40 on it and that will hold it over for a few days I believe.
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #246
Ugh ok. Kiddo is awake and course it's dinner-ish cooking time. Maybe I can get a coat on it. Like I said tho I brought it in the house more or less out of the element.
This time of year it's the temperature swings that will get you. Gets cooler low humidity and then warm humid air rolls in and it's like a glass of lemonade sweating in the summer. Best it to get it painted ASAP.
A little of what we call flash rust isn't really going to hurt anything especially on cast. Stuff that wipes off with your finger is a different story. WD40 does eventually evaporate but I can't believe it's good for paint adhesion.
A little of what we call flash rust isn't really going to hurt anything especially on cast. Stuff that wipes off with your finger is a different story. WD40 does eventually evaporate but I can't believe it's good for paint adhesion.
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #248
Plus if I wd40'd it, I'd have to degrease it to paint, correct?
Yes.
Eric
Eric
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #250
Thanks!
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Correct... basically the WD40 would be just buying you a few extra days while you wait to get everything lined up.
But yes having it in the house away from the elements will help slow things downs as well.
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #252
I added a quick coat to two of the three sides. Just a layer to prevent rust. Understanding I may have to have the intake machined w/ it.
And added a coat of primer and paint to the side cover.
And added a coat of primer and paint to the side cover.
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #253
So a blocked PCV hard pipe... I just read of a guy with a 62 who baked his cuz it was totally gummed up with carbon. Yesterday I dropped mine in a can of carb dip thinking all the nastiness in it would eat through it? I don't want to go putting something like that in my oven. I have an outdoor fire pit or I have a heat gun. Suggestions? How hot would it need to be?
micruz60
Unleaded Regular
I responded to you in my thread - I used a propane torch to clear my steel PCV pipe. The carbon was very hard and I couldn't even come close to pushing a wire through there. The stuff came out liquid and on fire. After that I was able to run pipe cleaners or similar through there. Then paint (powder coat for me I think.) Keep on truckin'
Eric
Eric
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #256
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #257
Okay I have a propane torch. Sounds like a fun task. Will be first for me. Woohoo.
micruz60
Unleaded Regular
Ugh.
Hot steam?
Hot steam?
Yep looks familiar. Safety glasses for sure on that operation.
Eric
Eric
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #260
@Prairie Swamp, Eric, thank you! So "on fire" huh? Will be a no kid in my vicinity task...
