Who does cut and turns?

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71-CRUISER said:
...3: rotate to 5* caster

That is a good caster pic...
 
original stock is +1 without the pinion pointed up...

point the pinion at the t-case (probably 12 degrees from stock) and your "stock" caster point is now -11 (12 -1 = 11)....rotate to a +5 caster and your total rotation is 16 (11 + 5 for final caster)

common rotations are 12 at the pinion and 15 total....net is +4 at the knuckle. 50,000 variables tho, all vehicle dependant, which is why the axle frequently comes in and out 20 times during the process....
 
You want to prep the knuckle cut by V grinding out the old weld so that you get full weld penetration. Shoot for a 60 degree total ange groove down to about 1/16 inch of the bottom of the cut. If you are not absolutely sure about the weld, mock it up with some scrap of the same thickness, weld it and then destructively test it (bend it over 180 degrees parallel across the weld w/o breaking). If you are not proficient with out of position pipe welding, take the housing back out and weld it while rotating the housing to weld in the flat position. Nothing like having your knuckle come loose to ruin your day and it has happened.
 
Trollhole said:
A picture says a thousand words. Now I understand. was the 5 degrees the original stock position? And what did you use to cut it with? And did you use heat to turn the knuckles? Did it mess up the bearing races.
No, +1* as others have said.

4" angle grinder

no heat req'd. If you can't rotate it with a pipe and hammer you didn't cut deep enough.

Yes, replace races.
 
After buying a angle finder and doing the measurements I now have a good understanding of what the hell I'm doing.

+1 degree is stock but +4 to +5 is where I want to be. Since I'm running bigger tires (33s now and 35 later) This will stop wandering and be better turning.

Thanks guys for the help. Micheal I still might call you if I get in a bind. But I'm pretty good at figuring things out so lets hope it goes well. If so I know of a few of our club members who would like this done up here.
 
shock mounts are definetly reuseable but it will be a pain to cut the stops off with a sawzall. An angle grinder w/ cutoff disks will be much easier.
The only thing you have to be carefull of is not to cut to deep. Just take it slow and you should be fine. You have my number if you get into a bind of have any questions.
 
great read, and awsome info guys, thanx!

to understand this correctly, positive caster means the top trunion bearing will be leaning behind the lower bearing, correct?

viewing from the drivers side caster will set this way / is that right?

thanx!
 
2badfjs said:
great read, and awsome info guys, thanx!

to understand this correctly, positive caster means the top trunion bearing will be leaning behind the lower bearing, correct?

viewing from the drivers side caster will set this way / is that right?

thanx!
yes and yes.
 
Hey guys you thingk I could mount the axle on a horizontal band saw build a small jig set my depth and rotate it?

My thinking is I would get a much more precise cut to the knuckle without digging into it and then go back and open it up with a grinder to a 60 degree angle for welding penetration.
 
I have seen pics of big, elaborate pipe cutters with the housing in a big 'ole vice, a 10' pribar and a rosebud torch...none of which I needed. There are many ways to skin a cat. I did mine with my trutsy 4" Makita (Ricky Carmicheal Suzuki, YEA! shameless plug) 90 * angle grinder and 3-4 wheels. Just hold it steady and work your way around. It makes a nice notch which enables good penetration welds in 2 or so passes to closer it up. I held my housing on saw horses saving my back from working on the floor and allows you to rotate the housing making it way easier to both cut and weld up. You can look into the curf and see when you have cut deep enough. It really is harder to describe than do. It was fun, but I like that kinda thing.
 
i did my first cut a turn over this last weekend. Real easy.Did one cut with a pipe cutter, the other with a angle grinder.Just wanted to see the differance.

I had to heat my housing to get my knuckles to turn.And still didn't want to turn to easy.I was plenty deep.

Mine should be up on it's 4 own feet by the weekend.Bout damn time.Only been like 13 months.whooot whooot
 
Maybe I got lucky not requiring heat to turn my knuckles. But it was there if I needed it. With the axle in the truck and ubolts tight I put the handle from my press through the trunion bearing holes and tapped it with a ball-peen hammer to rotate, often checking the angle until just right.
 
Just a reference... I have never used heat to turn a knuckle... probably done 100 of them at that... :D

(and I use an over-complicted RIGID cutter and custom jig)
 
cruiseroutfit said:
(and I use an over-complicted RIGID cutter and custom jig)
Never said it was overcomlicated, just elaborate. My little $100 grinder worked fine for me :)
 
dgangle said:
Never said it was overcomlicated, just elaborate. My little $100 grinder worked fine for me :)

I'm saying its over complicated... :D But it makes it easy on me... ;)
 
Now what happens with steering I'd like to see what some other people have done....I am just collecting all the parts I'll need to do a soa and them try and crank it out in a day....so does anyone have pics of their steering???
 
Macgyver5 said:
Now what happens with steering I'd like to see what some other people have done....I am just collecting all the parts I'll need to do a soa and them try and crank it out in a day....so does anyone have pics of their steering???


try this thread

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=55168 :cheers:
 
thanks!
 

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