What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (37 Viewers)

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Tomba said:
Nice call! Yeah, I grew up on the Peninsula but have been here for almost 30 yrs. Where are you now??
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I left there about 35 years ago, living in Oakland now. Would have been a good investment to get a house there but things sure would have been different If I had stayed in Granola Land. Often head over on the weekends to fish in Marin and the peninsula both have awesome coastlines.

Edit: Still love granola.
 
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mobiltoy said:
Swapped out steering wheel with a 70 series. I have power steering and the big wheel needed to go. Need to add the pins that cancel turn signal but otherwise very satisfied.

View attachment 3854735
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I want to do that or get a early 80 series wheel as well. Is it possible to get the horn to work and what does where the wheel meets the shaft on back side look like?
 
wchevron said:
I've used Simple Green to clean the drivetrain on my bicycle. Wasn't sure if something else worked better. Will give your mix a try
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For years now, I've been heating a pan over the Coleman stove, bicycle chain laying flat in it, and I melt paraffin wax on the links. It is solid at room temperature, so it collects very little dust. What it does collect is black wear metal, so, I scrape off the wax from the pan, between waxings. It really makes the chain stretch happen slower. No messy oil, but, it is the same thing that is in liquid Boeshield, if you want to put a drop of oil on the caked wax - it will eventually evaporate, and solidify. You can rub it on sheet metal, rusted or painted, and melt it in with just the sun, or with a propane torch - it protects forever, kinda. I just use holiday candles - candles make a great saw and drill lubricant as well; I suppose the canning wax would be a good option as well. Motor oil, in its early days, all came from Pennsylvania, Quaker State, Pennzoil. It came from there because the deposit naturally had high content of paraffin, and low sulfur.
 
Grayscale said:
For years now, I've been heating a pan over the Coleman stove, bicycle chain laying flat in it, and I melt paraffin wax on the links. It is solid at room temperature, so it collects very little dust. What it does collect is black wear metal, so, I scrape off the wax from the pan, between waxings. It really makes the chain stretch happen slower. No messy oil, but, it is the same thing that is in liquid Boeshield, if you want to put a drop of oil on the caked wax - it will eventually evaporate, and solidify. You can rub it on sheet metal, rusted or painted, and melt it in with just the sun, or with a propane torch - it protects forever, kinda. I just use holiday candles - candles make a great saw and drill lubricant as well; I suppose the canning wax would be a good option as well. Motor oil, in its early days, all came from Pennsylvania, Quaker State, Pennzoil. It came from there because the deposit naturally had high content of paraffin, and low sulfur.
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While restoring a 1942 military Harley-Davidson years ago, I’d found quite a few NOS parts and each wrapped in cosmoline. Smiliar product and very wax-like. It preserved stuff so well, when I opened these parts 65 years after they were produced, they all were like new. The leather on the leather parts was fresh and new, painted parts looked like they just came from the paint booth. Impressed for sure

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pb4ugo said:
Looks good. Just to let you know, your shock washers are on backwards.
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So they ARE suppose to flare outwards - I thought I had seen that somewhere but assumed the orientation of the washers as SOR sent the kit was correct, so I went with that. Then again looking at it another time, it appears they had one washer on the wrong side of the unit…so bad assumption on my part. Thanks for the heads up 👍

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Sorry can't get any pic's, still 18'' of snow/ice on hood. I don't know the length of the braded stainless steel hose, but I have like 12" diameter loop in the hose, zip tied to the fender. My plan is cut down the hose once I can get the correct fittings to do. The fixed hose/fitting into the slave needed to be screwed in first, then the slave mounted; hose routed and finally the hose connected to the master. Or just buy the shorter hose.

Yes the ebay guy had the master with a correct length hose but it was $50 more, so I opted for the longer one and it works fine so far.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
Sorry can't get any pic's, still 18'' of snow/ice on hood. I don't know the length of the braded stainless steel hose, but I have like 12" diameter loop in the hose, zip tied to the fender. My plan is cut down the hose once I can get the correct fittings to do. The fixed hose/fitting into the slave needed to be screwed in first, then the slave mounted; hose routed and finally the hose connected to the master. Or just buy the shorter hose.

Yes the ebay guy had the master with a correct length hose but it was $50 more, so I opted for the longer one and it works fine so far.
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Could a person use a tubing bender and flaring kit to make a new line?
That's how I did my 55 and it works great and looks right.
Flexible line is not correct, steel line attached to the firewall, with a rubber section to the cylinder where it flexes is correct.
Anyone who can bend up brake lines can make this part. Easy peasy.
The Flexible line is a crappy solution marketed towards the "my credit card can fix anything" crowd, it ships easy, but will cause more problems than it solves, and looks like crap compared to a well routed hard steel line.
 
My OEM hose which I still have was a flexible rubber one. I think the fitting is a different size going into the master, which is why the new master came with a hose. I think it I got a new slave with the kit. The last time I did a braided stainless hose was oil lines for Bell Jet Ranger back in 80's. Wrap with tape, cut with hacksaw threw the tape. Remove tape and place the capture nut, work the fitting into the hose, run up the capture nut. So I think special fitting are required for braided stainless steel hoses, more than just a couple of hose clamps... On and by the way the old Jet Ranger's oil lines are on my LC to replace the Man-a-fre burst proof oil lines.
 
trainbufftony said:
Could a person use a tubing bender and flaring kit to make a new line?
That's how I did my 55 and it works great and looks right.
Flexible line is not correct, steel line attached to the firewall, with a rubber section to the cylinder where it flexes is correct.
Anyone who can bend up brake lines can make this part. Easy peasy.
The Flexible line is a crappy solution marketed towards the "my credit card can fix anything" crowd, it ships easy, but will cause more problems than it solves, and looks like crap compared to a well routed hard steel line.
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If not going for a concours restoration then the stainless hose which is easily cut and mounted is functional, good looking and causes no issues.
That being said, I wouldn't want a hose that is unnecessarily long.
Steel hard lines are great as long as you have the tools and knowledge to fabricate them properly.
Stainless braided hose is every bit as functional and durable and can be fabricated with re-useable fittings and basic hand tools.
 
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mef0629 said:
The steering wheel and the jump seats are worth a solid $1000.00
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I know..... I looked him like he was crazy and asked him why so cheap? He said he sold his 40 and just wanted everything go e so he could make room for his wife's new car.....or she wanted it gone!? 😁 Lots of good stuff even not pictured a whole front set of hubs and disk brakes and one short axle.

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Installed grey procars, not much seat time yet.For the longest time one of the pair were on backorder, Jegs got 4 in stock finally.
Color is a smidge lighter than factory door cards.
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