What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (86 Viewers)

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Replaced distributor cap and rotor with OE ones still available from Toyota. For those in the know, as part of a routine maintenance program, is there any reason to change out a PerTronix unit, or do those just keep on going? I believe our current one is about 3 years old.
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Replaced distributor cap and rotor with OE ones still available from Toyota. For those in the know, as part of a routine maintenance program, is there any reason to change out a PerTronix unit, or do those just keep on going? I believe our current one is about 3 years old.
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As far as I know they can keep going a long time. There is a testing procedure in the manual, if it tests in spec I'd keep running it.
 
@Green Bean …with regards to those Pertronix units from one of the classic Thunderbird forums they say they are like a TIMEX ..” TAKES A LICKIN’ AND KEEPS ON TICKIN’ “
 
Fabricated a cage for my FJ45 and it does make it handy for firewood. A bit more weight on there than you think, glad for the bags in the back.

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Still need to put the two doors on the front for toolbox access.
 
Had a chance to delete the non-factory "Made in USA" rear license plate frame and light. Replaced it with what I believe is the factory-correct frame and light for our 08/1970 manufacture date. The two lower mounting holes in the driver's-side barn door were MIA (not sure if at one time they were there and had been filled up), so I added a couple of M6 rivnuts.

Old aftermarket "Made in USA" rear license plate frame

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New OEM rear license plate light still available from Toyota:

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The early OE rear license plate frame is NLA so I found a used one. The two lower mounting holes were not present, so I added a couple of M6 rivnuts. (Something is so satisfying about using that tool).

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Final result:

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Heat shrink tubing is a nice touch.

When I replaced the insulation on mine I found that residential pipe insulation melts from the heat from coolant lines.

I found that Armacell (or similar hvac pipe insulation) won't melt when in contact with the brass pipes.
Time will tell, the product I am using is rated a little lower than 190F. It says it's rated for AC use...but anyone can type that.
 
When I did the heater pipe insulation I found on this site a lot of folks used McMaster Carr 3/4od x 1/2"id EPDM hose. It comes in 6ft lengths, so you need 2 pieces and some baby powder to help get it on the pipes. I'm extremely happy with the results.
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When I did the heater pipe insulation I found on this site a lot of folks used McMaster Carr 3/4od x 1/2"id EPDM hose. It comes in 6ft lengths, so you need 2 pieces and some baby powder to help get it on the pipes. I'm extremely happy with the results.
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I will second that. I also put the pipes in the chest freezer to contract and the tube in the sun to expand. I had a good 10 minute or so to slide it on. Got a decent run doing that as well
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Inspected my newly installed Carb Cooling Fan. I’m happy to report with this hot New England weather, it turned on for the first time as it was engineered to. I made my own thermo snap switch to activate when the ambient air temp around the manifold reached 170 degrees. NOTE: This fan was retrofitted into my 1976 and it does the job to prevent hard starts.

 

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