Replaced distributor cap and rotor with OE ones still available from Toyota. For those in the know, as part of a routine maintenance program, is there any reason to change out a PerTronix unit, or do those just keep on going? I believe our current one is about 3 years old. View attachment 3679367 View attachment 3679368 View attachment 3679369 View attachment 3679370
While working through the refresh of all the rubber in the cooling/heater system, I had the rare broken bolt extraction work. I think I am 2 for 28 right now.
While working through the refresh of all the rubber in the cooling/heater system, I had the rare broken bolt extraction work. I think I am 2 for 28 right now. View attachment 3679643
@Green Bean …with regards to those Pertronix units from one of the classic Thunderbird forums they say they are like a TIMEX ..” TAKES A LICKIN’ AND KEEPS ON TICKIN’ “
Had a chance to delete the non-factory "Made in USA" rear license plate frame and light. Replaced it with what I believe is the factory-correct frame and light for our 08/1970 manufacture date. The two lower mounting holes in the driver's-side barn door were MIA (not sure if at one time they were there and had been filled up), so I added a couple of M6 rivnuts.
Old aftermarket "Made in USA" rear license plate frame
New OEM rear license plate light still available from Toyota:
The early OE rear license plate frame is NLA so I found a used one. The two lower mounting holes were not present, so I added a couple of M6 rivnuts. (Something is so satisfying about using that tool).
When I did the heater pipe insulation I found on this site a lot of folks used McMaster Carr 3/4od x 1/2"id EPDM hose. It comes in 6ft lengths, so you need 2 pieces and some baby powder to help get it on the pipes. I'm extremely happy with the results.
When I did the heater pipe insulation I found on this site a lot of folks used McMaster Carr 3/4od x 1/2"id EPDM hose. It comes in 6ft lengths, so you need 2 pieces and some baby powder to help get it on the pipes. I'm extremely happy with the results. View attachment 3680534View attachment 3680535
I will second that. I also put the pipes in the chest freezer to contract and the tube in the sun to expand. I had a good 10 minute or so to slide it on. Got a decent run doing that as well
Inspected my newly installed Carb Cooling Fan. I’m happy to report with this hot New England weather, it turned on for the first time as it was engineered to. I made my own thermo snap switch to activate when the ambient air temp around the manifold reached 170 degrees. NOTE: This fan was retrofitted into my 1976 and it does the job to prevent hard starts.
Inspected my newly installed Carb Cooling Fan. I’m happy to report with this hot New England weather, it turned on for the first time as it was engineered to. I made my own thermo snap switch to activate when the ambient air temp around the manifold reached 170 degrees. NOTE: This fan was retrofitted into my 1976 and it does the job to prevent hard starts.
Tried to dress up the top of the blower motor housing. The 3 screws with rubber grommets are NLA. Our old ones were looking pretty crummy and the rubber was falling apart.
I found some stainless steel EPDM bonded sealing washers that seemed about the right size.
Definitely not a perfect match to the OE, but overall it seems a satisfactory improvement.