What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (19 Viewers)

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There are definitely a whole bunch of mixed reviews on POR. Some swear by it and others detest it. I believe that I read that POR15 should not be exposed to UV without a top coat of the UV Resistant Coating. Our chassis and axels were done before we purchased the vehicle. For the most part it seems to have held up okay. There were some spots on the frame rails where the POR was peeling away in pretty good size chunks. I took it back to bare metal and went back with POR and a top coat. My impression is once it starts to fail, it can be pretty dramatic. Of course, the manufacturer will always claim it was due to poor surface prep. The other product that I've been sold on lately is Steel-It which comes in spray cans.
 
When I was restoring American motorcycles, my newest ever was a 1988 FLH that had been crashed. I must have sandblasted 30 other frames, no issues.
I bought the wreckage and bought a frame. Everything I ever did had to be sand blasted or glass beaded.. since Harley had switch to powder coating in 1987? or 88 all the media did was dull the finish. Would not come off no matter how I tried without flap discs

@Green Bean i agree with you with your assessment….as it was failing, we had chunks falling off like scale on a battleship
 
Green Bean said:
Working on preparing recently acquired skid plate, splash guard and rear heat shield for paint. Probably should have had them sand blasted as they were pretty crusty with years of rust and muck. But I'm just hitting them with flap discs for now. I haven't decided yet but I'm leaning towards paining them with POR15. Installation will have to wait until new exhaust goes in.

Skid Plate Before:
View attachment 3626043
Skid Plate After:
View attachment 3626044
Rear Heat Shield Before:
View attachment 3626045
Rear Heat Shield After:
View attachment 3626046
Driver's Side Splash Guard Before:
View attachment 3626047
Drivers Side Splash Guard After:
View attachment 3626048
Click to expand...
I had mine powder coated. That’s an illness on its own
 
Green Bean said:
There are definitely a whole bunch of mixed reviews on POR. Some swear by it and others detest it. I believe that I read that POR15 should not be exposed to UV without a top coat of the UV Resistant Coating. Our chassis and axels were done before we purchased the vehicle. For the most part it seems to have held up okay. There were some spots on the frame rails where the POR was peeling away in pretty good size chunks. I took it back to bare metal and went back with POR and a top coat. My impression is once it starts to fail, it can be pretty dramatic. Of course, the manufacturer will always claim it was due to poor surface prep. The other product that I've been sold on lately is Steel-It which comes in spray cans.
Click to expand...
my experience is prep is key - if down to bare metal - need to use a chemical etcher for better adhesion.

I'm thinking Eastwood now vs POR. I did POR on my skid plate a week ago, but pivoting away - Steel-It seems like a great product too - but not meant for over rust. That would be a frame-off for me to get all the rust gone in the nooks and cracks.

my opinion... perhaps worth what it costs... nothing
 
^ at least 2¢ 😛
 
Ospho directly over rust, let sit for 24hrs then several misty/light coats of enamel spray can serve me well.

POR15 is very affected by UV, is nasty to work with and gets everywhere you don’t want it to.
I despise it.
 
RevISK said:
Ospho directly over rust, let sit for 24hrs then several misty/light coats of enamel spray can serve me well.

POR15 is very affected by UV, is nasty to work with and gets everywhere you don’t want it to.
I despise it.
Click to expand...
its what I do too. OSPHO is my friend.
 
I’ve used Eastwood’s Ceramic Chassis Black (?) in a spray can. It’s a 2 part in one rattle can. Did a couple motorcycle frames and was really happy with it. A friend used the non-rattle can version on his project frame and is really happy as well. Because you can never have too many opinions….
 
1911 said:
Another alternative to POR that I've used successfully in the past is Rust Bullet:

Automotive Applications - https://www.rustbullet.com/automotive-applications/
Click to expand...
If one's goal is to apply a layer of something over rusty metal, Rust Bullet (whose claims roughly mirror POR-15's) can be had
for roughly half the cost of POR-15. Using phosphoric acid (OsPho) first then any good enamel cuts that by roughly half again.
I've used them all and and see no good reason to pay a premium for essentially the same result. Epoxy or powder coat FTW!
 
Ready to go back in.

20240507_164940.jpg
 
I might start mine Friday. May even drive it to work.
 
This week I have been working on rebuilding the front knuckles and fitting the 30 spline birfields in prep for the front disk brakes. In a holding pattern waiting on delivery of inner c-clip for the right front axle. first pic is the driver side cleaned up and after fitting new birfield. Right side before and after shot. going to clean and check the diff and reinstall it. I have the SUMO knuckle rebuild kit and lots of grease to repack.

Driver side cleaned up.jpg


Right side short axle.jpg


20240506_111357.jpg
 
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