What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (31 Viewers)

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As I'm taking the scenic way back from exploring a trail just outside of town, I'm spotted by the local Jeep Tours guy, who always appreciates seeing the 40. He passes me with a huge wave out the window. Here the 40 gets tons of attention, usually from the FJ Cruiser folks - they love the 40. Then, I decided to be a bit of a creep, myself. I just had stop at one of the hike/cycle trailheads when I see this.

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As the driver was returning from his hike, it turns out that I finally met the original owner of a couple of local '79 FJ55s. I've been eyeing these neighborhood rigs for at least the last decade.

He told me that he is under the impression that one of them was really, really late in the 1979 55 production run. He also mentioned to me that, when he bought them, the Toyota dealer was actually having a hard time getting rid of them, if you can believe that!
 
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Why not just tape up the positive lead for the battery. Then just jump it using the large lead at the starter. After that just drive it. Having a battery is overrated. I have done this in the past when I had a dead battery. Even with a dead short in the battery once the positive lead is disconnected your good. Did this to get to the auto parts store to purchase another.
Condition of truck is unknown and has some burnt wires in the harness. I’ll wait for the battery and avoid a fire.
 
Condition of truck is unknown and has some burnt wires in the harness. I’ll wait for the battery and avoid a fire.


If you have wiring issues using a battery does not add any safety features. The large positve cable at the starter is hot all the time once the battery is install. Applying a jump there the voltage just goes up the cable to where the battery would be and power braches off from there. Any fusible link and fuses are not by passed. Once the vehicle starts it's the alternator that is powering the vehicle and charging the battery for the next start. Only time the battery comes into play again is if the alternator is failing or a load exceeding the output of the alternator like a electric winch is being used. Actually trouble shooting a wiring issue would prefer a 12 volt power with it own fuse/circuit breaker. Two 12 volt batteries in series are used to stick weld. A lot of potential amperage in a battery if something is shorted out.
 
Was that for a complete door or just the shell? See a set of NOS on eBay right now. $3,111.10 plus shipping. Have small dents and surface rust. These would fit 75-81. They are not dimpled from the inside to push the dome light switch in.
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10/81 doors with this bump are hard to find in the US. Want wing windows too you looking for doors from another market.

To show how much prices have changed bought these doors for $25 apiece thirty to thirty five years ago. Peeling paint makes them look bad but they are both rust free.View attachment 2461264View attachment 2461266

The hard top and ambulance doors I paid $200 back in 1998. These are rust free as well. I"m sure members who have been into cruisers for years can't believe the prices today. I bought parts for my own use believing they would dry up and become unavailable period. Never expected they become so popular and prices would be thru the roof.

No kidding. My 45 parts truck cost me $100 plus about $50 to tow it home.

More recently I paid $200 for a decent/repairable '81 hardtop. At the time Hardtops were going for about $500-600. Edit: Just had a look at the thread on the '81 top... started in 2010.

Now I'm seeing 45s needing work that are in OK shape for sale for $45k and even recently saw a decent looking BJ42 that the seller was asking $105k for. I can remember when $10-15k would get you an '84 BJ42 with P/S and a 5 speed.

Now $200 won't fill my two fuel tanks... well almost :eek:
 
Started to assemble my blast cabinet so that I can start to clean up and paint all my smaller parts such as the hinges and such. This is a cheap harbor freight cabinet, but I think it will perform fine for me. It is taking a while as i am making lots of the recommended mods I saw on YouTube as I go.
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I am going to have to do the same shortly so about 6 weeks ago, following up on internet research, I paid a visit to the Tacoma premises in northern Idaho while passing through. That visit must count as of the best spent hours in my life. I had so many misconceptions about sandblasting, including the commonly held one that you necessarily need huge amounts of high pressure air. You do if your equipment is not up to snuff, but if you do the neccesary Tacoma modifications to the HF blaster you need neither high pressure nor high volume to get perfect results. The performance of the machine is improved beyond belief. Best analogy I can think of it is the difference between an engine built with high performance parts designed by experts and the same engine block made to run with random junkyard parts.

I have worked with all manner of sand blasters, including expensive Vapor honing machines and the finish from a modified HF cabinet is as good and quick as anything out there.

At the very least you need to get the blast gun and follow his advice on what abrasives to use.
 
I am going to have to do the same shortly so about 6 weeks ago, following up on internet research, I paid a visit to the Tacoma premises in northern Idaho while passing through. That visit must count as of the best spent hours in my life. I had so many misconceptions about sandblasting, including the commonly held one that you necessarily need huge amounts of high pressure air. You do if your equipment is not up to snuff, but if you do the neccesary Tacoma modifications to the HF blaster you need neither high pressure nor high volume to get perfect results. The performance of the machine is improved beyond belief. Best analogy I can think of it is the difference between an engine built with high performance parts designed by experts and the same engine block made to run with random junkyard parts.

I have worked with all manner of sand blasters, including expensive Vapor honing machines and the finish from a modified HF cabinet is as good and quick as anything out there.

At the very least you need to get the blast gun and follow his advice on what abrasives to use.
Good note for sure - thank you. I was able to find cheap versions of similar items and am fabing the needed parts to save cash. Will takes pics when done if there is any interest.
 
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If you have wiring issues using a battery does not add any safety features. The large positve cable at the starter is hot all the time once the battery is install. Applying a jump there the voltage just goes up the cable to where the battery would be and power braches off from there. Any fusible link and fuses are not by passed. Once the vehicle starts it's the alternator that is powering the vehicle and charging the battery for the next start. Only time the battery comes into play again is if the alternator is failing or a load exceeding the output of the alternator like a electric winch is being used. Actually trouble shooting a wiring issue would prefer a 12 volt power with it own fuse/circuit breaker. Two 12 volt batteries in series are used to stick weld. A lot of potential amperage in a battery if something is shorted out.

I have a way of doing these things. A work around for me just jumbles up the way I start breaking these down.
 
Stripped the household carpet the PO used as a headliner and scrapped most of the chunkies off. Also got a Hobart 140 from my neighbor in trade for beer. Going to start replacing the rust over the next couple weeks. Since I’m not that serious about this one and want it more functional I’ll be rolling white or black Monstaliner for a headliner.

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