What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (87 Viewers)

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Hardtop disassembled and cap over to @cjmoon for a refresh.

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It’s been hot down here in Texas and unfortunately my 40 started running hot as well. Radiator is pretty new and I rebuilt the fan clutch a few years back so I decided to toss a new thermostat and gaskets in her. Top rubber gasket that I removed was pretty much toast. I also opened the drain plug to get a look at the coolant, all good there ... free-flowing and clean so I skipped the full flush. Parked her in the drive nose up and topped off the rad and started her up without the cap. Let it run and burp for 15 minutes or so, I was amazed how many time i needed to top it off. Once it was up to temp I grabbed the temp gun and took some shots for good measure, then buttoned her up and hit the highway to see if I could move the needle, but it never moved off the first mark. All good now.

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Parked her in the drive nose up and topped off the rad and started her up without the cap. Let it run and burp for 15 minutes or so, I was amazed how many time i needed to top it off. Once it was up to temp I grabbed the temp gun and took some shots for good measure, then buttoned her up and hit the highway to see if I could move the needle, but it never moved off the first mark. All good now.
Previous owner left a "T" fitting with a cap on it to attach a garden hose in the heater hose in the back, coming off the head.

I've used them before on other cars, designed as part of a flush kit, to add water from the back. But similar fittings are available in brass, etc, from plumbing section in hardware stores, or online.

What really makes them work well is the ability to open the cap and let the air out filling the system, one time thing, fill cold and be one your way, no burping.
 
i replaces the burnt out incandescent fulfillment bulb with a LED one , original had BLUE rubber cap on it , OEM Blue ,

i was thinking of his and hers Dueling LED bulbs for balance and Popper LUMENS Tone etc ........

the results left me in
Total BLISS ........................! :D

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Previous owner left a "T" fitting with a cap on it to attach a garden hose in the heater hose in the back, coming off the head.

I've used them before on other cars, designed as part of a flush kit, to add water from the back. But similar fittings are available in brass, etc, from plumbing section in hardware stores, or online.

What really makes them work well is the ability to open the cap and let the air out filling the system, one time thing, fill cold and be one your way, no burping.

I made one using 5/8" hose and the cheap Prestone fitting that I can use on both the 40 & 80 ... a length of hose that fits both rigs, I have used it to flush each truck but don't leave it in place.
 
Day 7: Roof is almost finished. Gravel base compacted. Window frames weather sealed. Garage door openings framed out. Added the header board for the back deck/lean to i decided to add. Swale for the yard was corrected as well so water stops flowing through the yard. Cement starts Friday. Electrical Saturday. I’ll have a pic soon of land cruisers in the thing I swear. Don’t run me out of town yet.

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Started cleaning my new to me 12/79 4 speed with matching tcase. Removed shift assembly using a simple piece of wood. Looking forward to shining this up and installing so I can use my 3 speed as a mooring In Nantucket Sound.

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Sprayed over the lizard skin and rough coat with the green that is going on the rest of the ride. Going to let it dry another day or two and then get the body back onto the frame.

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This is something I've been very curious about. What order did you apply Lizard Skin, Primer, paint, bedliner, etc. (whatever you used). I very much want to put Lizard Skin on the underside of my truck, but being Latex based I've always wondered how it will interact with other automotive paints.
 
This is something I've been very curious about. What order did you apply Lizard Skin, Primer, paint, bedliner, etc. (whatever you used). I very much want to put Lizard Skin on the underside of my truck, but being Latex based I've always wondered how it will interact with other automotive paints.

Lizard Skin was actually very easy to spray and very forgiving. My order was:
1. DTM Epoxy primer
2. Seam sealer on any gaps such as around the bottom side of the rear sill
3. another layer of primer over the areas that had seam sealer on it
4. After that I roughed up the primer a bit with a scotch brite just to ensure adhesion
5. gave it a quick wipe with acetone to clean it.
6. Two layers of Lizard skin sound control. Let it dry for 5 or so days. Used the gun from the kit they sell.
7. Two layers of lizard skin ceramic insulation. Let it dry for another 5 or so days
8. Lizard skin top coat.
9. 2K green paint.

in terms of performance, I cant speak to the ceramic insulation yet, but the sound control is really amazing. When I knocked on the tub before it sounded like an ill-tuned bell, Now it sounds like I am knocking on plywood with a quite thud...I thought it would work good based off of everything I read, and so far it has surpassed my expectations for sound deadening - it is really impressive stuff.
 
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