What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (28 Viewers)

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Had a really good day at the auto hobby shop on McChord yesterday.

Got the oil changed in both differentials
Replaced the transmission fluid
Oil change and filter
New spark plugs
Removed an old brake pressure driven trailer brake thing
Did a bunch cleaning on, and around the frame
And a few other odds and ends

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That's so handy to have avaialable to service people. How far in advance do you have to book it, or are spots pretty easy to get? I'm sure that depends on the base.. That's got to be a time saver too! (Typed as it in line buying fluids to do the diffs and tcase on my 04 4Runner.)
 
I am enjoying going topless with the 40 in the warmer weather but did not care for the view from the back without doors.

Fabbed up and painted a rear gate from some bar stock to prevent any potential passenger roll outs as well provide a respectable position for the license plate.

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Next up, tire carrier installation.
 
Had a really good day at the auto hobby shop on McChord yesterday.

Got the oil changed in both differentials
Replaced the transmission fluid
Oil change and filter
New spark plugs
Removed an old brake pressure driven trailer brake thing
Did a bunch cleaning on, and around the frame
And a few other odds and ends

View attachment 1546542

Wow! What a nice base hobby shop. I wish we'd had one like that when I was in. Had to install the 4-speed Muncie in my 40 while lying on my back on the asphalt.
 
Finally got around to putting led tail lights on. Weird thing happened. With key off two of the led's on each tail light would dimly stay on. After two days of head scratching and wire wiggling I finally dropped the steering column so I could get at the brake switch and found the problem. sort of. I was getting some kind of voltage bleed through or ground through where the cruise control that I haven't use for years was conected to the brake switch wire. It was enough to make the led's faintly stay on but would not light the incandescent's. I guess there has been a current draw all this time. Never had the battery go dead after a week of sitting though. Any way got the front and backs done now have to change out the markers then the dash. I love the led's and recommend the change. I did my X19 some years ago and it made a noticeable difference in lighting and current draw.
 
I finally finished mocking up the drive train and steering. Pulled everything and welding all the motor/transfer case mounts as well as the steering box mounts etc.. Working on plating/strengthening the front cross member around the cutout for the steering box nowView attachment 1547060 View attachment 1547061 View attachment 1547068 View attachment 1547074

I must say that Brent Lykins is one of my favorite people in the motorsport business. Good to see you are using one of his engines.
 
Found some old rusty steel rims in a barn that I procured fairly cheap. Thanks to @dogfishlake for taking on the challenge of blasting/powdercoating them. One was pretty badly pitted, but he resurrected it and delivered them last night. They look brand new! And, we even had a few minutes for a beer.

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After ordering a set of new tires and hubcaps for the wheels, I started trying to take the paint off my 40 to see if I could uncover the original rustic green paint...it was repainted in the early 90's. With the use of a pressure washer and some bumper stripper I worked about half of one fender. Extremely time consuming, and took some down to bare metal, but I think I may be able to make it work, if I decide I have the patience...

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Potato Launcher,
Do you know if these lights are available anywhere? I have a 73 also but am currently useing the earlier model back up light.

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I do not know of a source for the light. Have only seen one in person and that was at least 30 years ago. If you can find one grab it and run.
 
Never thought I'd see the day where I got bested by a lug nut, but this one will not budge...

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I've tried heat, penetrating oil, parafin wax, breaker bars, and the biggest impact driver I have - no dice. The rest came off without too much resistance - but this one will not move - any tricks I haven't thought of?

What's especially odd is I've had the tires off this truck a couple times, fairly recently, and always tighten using a torque wrench. They're even new wheel studs, installed ~3 years ago...
 
@RWBeringer4x4
Did you try to put the other nuts back on, torque them, then try to loosen the stubborn nut?

I didn't, but I will give that a shot. Is there something more serious that could be going on to cause the nuts to seize (i.e. too much heat from the brakes or something?) I guess this is something I'll need to investigate when the truck has an engine again.
 
Never thought I'd see the day where I got bested by a lug nut, but this one will not budge...

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I've tried heat, penetrating oil, parafin wax, breaker bars, and the biggest impact driver I have - no dice. The rest came off without too much resistance - but this one will not move - any tricks I haven't thought of?

What's especially odd is I've had the tires off this truck a couple times, fairly recently, and always tighten using a torque wrench. They're even new wheel studs, installed ~3 years ago...
Cheater bar. Bust the stud and replace. It's likely already cross threaded anyhow.
 
Floor jack under a breaker bar if all else fails.
 
That's so handy to have avaialable to service people. How far in advance do you have to book it, or are spots pretty easy to get? I'm sure that depends on the base.. That's got to be a time saver too! (Typed as it in line buying fluids to do the diffs and tcase on my 04 4Runner.)

Its first come first serve, so you just show up which is nice, and really convenient!
 
Finally got my '76 smog'd to comply with Kalifornia. Sadly removed my Colorado plates for Kali ones. Also added new ARB front bumper with Warn Winch. Perfect to knock CJ's (or pretty much anything) out of my way, and then pull them out of the ditch.:doh: Also added 4Plus rear tire and cooler/gerry can carrier. I cheated and did none of the work myself. Props to Valley Hybrids and Cruisers in Stockton. Excellent work.

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Bling Bling so shiny, suggest wearing sunglasses when looking at this:)
 
Cheater bar. Bust the stud and replace. It's likely already cross threaded anyhow.

I'm fully confident that it isn't cross threaded, since I installed it last. Hopefully I can get away with not breaking the stud but it's starting to look unlikely.
 
I'm fully confident that it isn't cross threaded, since I installed it last. Hopefully I can get away with not breaking the stud but it's starting to look unlikely.
On occasion I have had a bolt where a tinny piece of thread has torn causing the nut to bind. If there is no room to run the nut down farther, as in your case, in order to clean the thread then destroying the bolt is last option. Like has been said, Big cheater bar. Either the nut will come off or the stud will break. It will probably be easier and faster to replace a stud that the time it takes to save the old one. The old one will probably not be worth a darn after all the sweating is done anyhow.
 

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