What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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Roastchestnuts said:
wow sounds like I gotta majorly air down haha. I am running my kenda kevlar at like 30 psi I think.
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I'm running my new Kanati's at 20psi right now. May go lower after a couple hundred miles. Going to see how they break in.
 
Yikes. When I got my 40 the tires had 40psi and I was bouncing all over the place. I went down to 30 and it was better. Now you all have me thinking I need to go even lower. I haven’t done the chalk test….I do the ‘how high do my kids bounce in the jump seats when going over bumps’ test.
 
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sleepycruiser said:
Yikes. When I got my 40 the tires had 40psi and I was bouncing all over the place. I went down to 30 and it was better. Now you all have me thinking I need to go even lower. I haven’t done the chalk test….I do the ‘how high do my kids bounce in the jump seats when going over bumps’ test.
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Haha before I put dobinsons springs in, it had some pro comp springs or somthing. they were so stiff that it would bounce me into the roof. They were flexing the frame before they were flexing. The dobinsons were a huge improvement but apparently airing down will do some too!
 
bikersmurf said:
When I got BFG 33x10.50 ATs the shop inflated them to 35... After I drove home, I found that only 4-5" of the tire's width was in contact with the road. The 40 was also super sketchy on the highway. Using the chalk test I found that 25 psi was still somewhat overinflated, but that's what I've settled on.

Before someone concludes that it's because it is a light vehicle... 2200 lbs on the front axle, and 2700 lbs on the rear. Some of the sketchiness on the highway may have been related to worn steering and suspension components. Now at 25 psi with castor shims, a different (now P/S box), new TREs, and a rebuilt front axle, it is a whole different beast.

The pressures may be slightly different for MTs, however, I suspect at 30 there may still be room to lower the pressure.
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Definitely good info right there
 
Land Shark said:
Definitely good info right there
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When I picked these MT's up I was like, sure, I will run them like I do my 100, 35 or so PSI. Now that I have had these on for about 600 miles I wanted to play with the pressure to see what is up. When @CondeCruiser posted the other day and said he was going to run his at a lower pressure I started the "lowering"... I will lower again to about 27psi and see how it does.
 
Chalk test on my 40 (topless, winch, rear swingouts, BFG KM3) was 24#.
 
Not ‘what’, but ‘How’. I’ve been searching for additional resources bc, well I ask a lot of questions, and got some good deals via eBay on the ‘Chassis and Body’ and ‘F Engine’ manual. So much info in there relevant to my ‘64.

I know a lot of people disparage the Haynes manual, and even though it doesn’t cover ‘64, but it has a lot of good info as well. I’ve found the digital copies online, but these are great to have in hand.

Any other manuals I’m missing besides the transmission one? I have a reprint of the actual owner’s manual I got off Etsy.

IMG_5444.webp
 
sleepycruiser said:
Not ‘what’, but ‘How’. I’ve been searching for additional resources bc, well I ask a lot of questions, and got some good deals via eBay on the ‘Chassis and Body’ and ‘F Engine’ manual. So much info in there relevant to my ‘64.

I know a lot of people disparage the Haynes manual, and even though it doesn’t cover ‘64, but it has a lot of good info as well. I’ve found the digital copies online, but these are great to have in hand.

Any other manuals I’m missing besides the transmission one? I have a reprint of the actual owner’s manual I got off Etsy.

View attachment 3810994
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There is a Chilton manual, apparently.

I also have a Clymer-repair manual for my Datsun. The troubleshooting chapter is unique to this series. Because they are similar vintage, and similar tech, it provides a different perspective, with enough illustrations to fill it's own art museum, but, I can't find one specific to Land Cruisers.

Weber Carburettors Tuning Tips and Techniques, by John Passini, albeit a wordy-read, covers carbruetor / intake theory.

I'm really into all things vintage.

Clymer.jpg
.
 
Grayscale said:
There is a Chilton manual, apparently.

I also have a Clymer-repair manual for my Datsun. The troubleshooting chapter is unique to this series. Because they are similar vintage, and similar tech, it provides a different perspective, with enough illustrations to fill it's own art museum, but, I can't find one specific to Land Cruisers.

Weber Carburettors Tuning Tips and Techniques, by John Passini, albeit a wordy-read, covers carbruetor / intake theory.

I'm really into all things vintage.

View attachment 3811015.
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I have a paper xerox copy of the Chilton Manual I think its for a 1966
 
Roastchestnuts said:
I have a paper xerox copy of the Chilton Manual I think its for a 1966
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Any idea how similar or dissimilar it is to the rest (Haynes, Toyota manuals)?
 
sleepycruiser said:
Any idea how similar or dissimilar it is to the rest (Haynes, Toyota manuals)?
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Seems about the same. I only have a haynes for the isuzu pup and this Chiltons. Chilten seems visually show stuff better. (discounting the Toyota 2f manuals and stuff) the toyota stuff is the best I feel.
 
Nothing beats the factory books. Chilton's etc will tell you 50 times antifreeze will kill your pets and brake fluid will eat your paint but not once will they tell you the transmission needs to mate all the way to the bell housing freely - you suck it up the last 1/8" with the bolts and the torque converter is crushed even though it has 1/2" engagements flats on the input shaft. C6 in a pinto
 
bikersmurf said:
When I got BFG 33x10.50 ATs the shop inflated them to 35... After I drove home, I found that only 4-5" of the tire's width was in contact with the road. The 40 was also super sketchy on the highway. Using the chalk test I found that 25 psi was still somewhat overinflated, but that's what I've settled on.

Before someone concludes that it's because it is a light vehicle... 2200 lbs on the front axle, and 2700 lbs on the rear. Some of the sketchiness on the highway may have been related to worn steering and suspension components. Now at 25 psi with castor shims, a different (now P/S box), new TREs, and a rebuilt front axle, it is a whole different beast.

The pressures may be slightly different for MTs, however, I suspect at 30 there may still be room to lower the pressure.
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Mine was super squirrelly on the road until I replace all the tie-rod ends. They were shot. She's straight as an arrow going down the road now. I did the measurements front and back with two pieces of scrap angle iron to set the alignment. It's riding on new Bilstein's too.
 
Just use a new wheel bearing adjustment nut star washer - you'll never get it as flat as it was when it was new. The outer nut is torqued to spec, and those parts needs to be squeezed tight. I'm not sure why that wasn't in the FSM or Haynes?
 
fj40fillet said:
Mine was super squirrelly on the road until I replace all the tie-rod ends. They were shot. She's straight as an arrow going down the road now. I did the measurements front and back with two pieces of scrap angle iron to set the alignment. It's riding on new Bilstein's too.
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This is the first time in 33 years that I’ve had new TREs, no bel crank, and a tight steering box.

My prior two sets of tires I ran at 21 psi. They both worn most down the middle (as an over inflated tire does). With fuel prices at $1.70-2.00 a litre CDN ($5.50 USD/Gallon). I’m running 25 in the hope to save a few $$$. 20-21 would likely be better. 25 is a compromise to try and reduce rolling resistance.
 
bikersmurf said:
This is the first time in 33 years that I’ve had new TREs, no bel crank, and a tight steering box.

My prior two sets of tires I ran at 21 psi. They both worn most down the middle (as an over inflated tire does). With fuel prices at $1.70-2.00 a litre CDN ($5.50 USD/Gallon). I’m running 25 in the hope to save a few $$$. 20-21 would likely be better. 25 is a compromise to try and reduce rolling resistance.
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IMO it's the entire suspension, tie rods, bushings, shocks and good rubber!
 
mef0629 said:
IMO it's the entire suspension, tie rods, bushings, shocks and good rubber!
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All this has to be good, b4 an a alignment can be done. Proper steering setup and geometry is the key. My 75 40 is more a blacktop driver, most things are newer except for the tre's. They maybe original, idk. I recently recently serviced the knuckles too. It's the best handling 40 I've ever had. I haven't hit 80 yet, but I've come close. i run 4" lift, 33-10.50 radial mt's at 26psi and power steering.
 
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