What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (37 Viewers)

[South Texas 97]

PO had a Holley Carb model 2300 with a 140 jet? It looked pretty rough and well abused. Truck ran, but a lot of fuel in the carb. Took the carb off and removed the float bowl and the intermediate body where the idle mix screws are. All the screws had damaged heads, too small a screw driver or too much force applied. Replaced gaskets and little washers around the bolts, dunked everything in carb cleaner. Replaced needle valve for the float, the o-ring was crusty, replaced that. And when I took the float bowl off one little brass Venturi thing just fell out.

The idle adjustment screws were missing one o-ring and the remaining one was hard as a rock.

Put it all back together and on the truck, and it pretty much started right up once I set the float level correctly

 

[70fj40]

Clrussell
I believe those were from City Racer. I’ve had them for about 2 years but pretty sure that is correct.

Livininthepast

That tailpipe is a few inches from the light so I don’t think it will hurt the plastic but I am getting ready to take it in for a new muffler and will have it moved further away just so I’m not proven wrong.

 

[Pitter Patter]

The old rear sill repair. Overall happy with the real steel panels. They needed quite a bit of modification to fit but good enough for this cruiser.

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Did you have to suck the quarter patches back to contact the sill? Did you secure the sill to the quarter or leave it floating behind the panel?

I found the sill they sent me had to be notched and stretched in a few spots on both sides then filled so I could get the right angle and support contact. The gaps were significant and the quarters had to be clamped and stretched in to make it work. There was a puckered rear effect if I didn’t do this. The body mounts, door striker and lower door seal weren’t in the right location unless I reconfigured the curve.

 

[120mm]

Did you have to suck the quarter patches back to contact the sill? Did you secure the sill to the quarter or leave it floating behind the panel?

I found the sill they sent me had to be notched and stretched in a few spots on both sides then filled so I could get the right angle and support contact. The gaps were significant and the quarters had to be clamped and stretched in to make it work. There was a puckered rear effect if I didn’t do this. The body mounts, door striker and lower door seal weren’t in the right location unless I reconfigured the curve.

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That was my experience as well

 

[Green Bean]

It was a very hot, dry and long summer here. At last, we got our first cool front and the temperature in the garage was below 100. More as an excuse to get dirty than anything else, I replaced the shabby hardware on shocks with new shiny OEM castle nuts, washers (and yes even OEM cotter pins just for grins)

 

[pb4ugo]

Looks good except the washers are on backwards.

 

[45Dougal]

The 1970s Meano body on my converted HJ45 safari truck has been repainted a few times, so decided to tidy it up.
Managed to enlist my son for a bit of wet sanding.
Not a bad effort at 3 and a half.

 

[MAR FJ40]

My Mosley hi-po cop motor will be happy with its new fuel delivery system that arrived today. Thanks @FJ60Cam !

 

[igotta40]

In the 40+ years I’ve had this 1974 FJ40 the driver’s seat has never had any adjustment, and it feels like I’m sitting too low in the seat, so now that the brutal Texas summer is over, I’m getting into it. It may be the only part I have never dissected, and I’ve never seen it illustrated in this forum, so maybe a How-To will be helpful. I started by cutting some steel square pipe for the risers (2 inches) then pulled out the drivers seat and separated the frame and cushions. The tracks were gummed up and seized with 49 years worth of dirt and corrosion so I used P Blaster, carb cleaner and Simple Green on them. I finally got them to slide enough to see what I have to do. There’s two sets of bearing cage and steel rollers in each track. I figured out how to get it apart, so now what’s left is cleanup, paint and assembly. Here’s some pictures to illustrate. I finally realized after all the years why the inner frame has a large mounting hole. It’s to access the track stop bolt! More to come as I progress.

 

[igotta40]

Had to slide the track back and forth until I could grab the rear bearing cage with long nose pliers and pull it out, then get the front one out. It was tricky, because of all the dirt and surface rust. The frame rivets act as stops for the rollers.

 

[igotta40]

Here’s a mock up of the risers on one side.

 

[igotta40]

More disassembling photos

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Drove around.

 

[Will615]

Had to slide the track back and forth until I could grab the rear bearing cage with long nose pliers and pull it out, then get the front one out. It was tricky, because of all the dirt and surface rust. The frame rivets act as stops for the rollers.

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@igotta40 can you post a picture of your tachometer (or what I’m assuming is a tach to the right of your gauge cluster). It looks good there.

 

[flee]

@igotta40 can you post a picture of your tachometer (or what I’m assuming is a tach to the right of your gauge cluster). It looks good there.

Just guessing but I think that's a vacuum gauge indicating 0-30 in. of Hg.

 

[cruiserkev]

Well crap! Noticed water in my exhaust a few minutes ago after replacing a burned out temperature sender and need some advice. Cruiser has been down for a few weeks while I amassed parts to fix the cooling system and has only been started a couple of times to check for coolant leaks as the parts were replaced. There was no leakage but the engine did seem to run slightly rougher than it used to during the short time it was running. Didn't notice any water the last couple times I started it though. This is a symptom of either a blown head gasket or cracked head, correct?

Back story - 87 2F in a 76 FJ40. Radiator seam near the fill neck failed on me the last time it was driven causing coolant to forcefully leak out onto the engine and overheat. I had drove it at freeway speeds for approximately 30 miles before this happened. Of course the engine ran great up until that point and I wasn't expecting issues. Engine temperature had been normal and I was surprised to see the steam. Limped it off the freeway to make it easier to be towed while putting on an epic steam show, went maybe 3/4 of a mile before shutting the engine off. After it cooled I found the hose to the overflow tank was completely plugged and was not allowing any coolant or pressure in or out of the cooling system. Towed it home and started ordering parts.

Since then I have replaced the radiator, overflow bottle and hose, thermostat and temperature sender.

I'm no master mechanic but have replaced a couple heads before, just not looking forward to this heavy beast. Guess I will pull the spark plugs and check for water in the cylinders next. Any other suggestions before disassembly? Would a compression test be of any use? Thanks for helping!




Edit - Pulled the plugs, probably 1000 miles on these.
Obvious coolant in #4 cylinder.

 

[Skreddy]

Put the hard top back on and took the family for a couple beers. Well, not the kids, I don’t need anyone saying I’m a bad parent for letting them have a couple beers. They just split 1.

 

[pb4ugo]

Well crap! Noticed water in my exhaust a few minutes ago after replacing a burned out temperature sender and need some advice. Cruiser has been down for a few weeks while I amassed parts to fix the cooling system and has only been started a couple of times to check for coolant leaks as the parts were replaced. There was no leakage but the engine did seem to run slightly rougher than it used to during the short time it was running. Didn't notice any water the last couple times I started it though. This is a symptom of either a blown head gasket or cracked head, correct?

Back story - 87 2F in a 76 FJ40. Radiator seam near the fill neck failed on me the last time it was driven causing coolant to forcefully leak out onto the engine and overheat. I had drove it at freeway speeds for approximately 30 miles before this happened. Of course the engine ran great up until that point and I wasn't expecting issues. Engine temperature had been normal and I was surprised to see the steam. Limped it off the freeway to make it easier to be towed while putting on an epic steam show, went maybe 3/4 of a mile before shutting the engine off. After it cooled I found the hose to the overflow tank was completely plugged and was not allowing any coolant or pressure in or out of the cooling system. Towed it home and started ordering parts.

Since then I have replaced the radiator, overflow bottle and hose, thermostat and temperature sender.

I'm no master mechanic but have replaced a couple heads before, just not looking forward to this heavy beast. Guess I will pull the spark plugs and check for water in the cylinders next. Any other suggestions before disassembly? Would a compression test be of any use? Thanks for helping!




Edit - Pulled the plugs, probably 1000 miles on these.
Obvious coolant in #4 cylinder.

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Yes, compression test. Water in the exhaust can be just condensation from running it and not driving it. Is there waterl in the oil?

 

[Will615]

Just guessing but I think that's a vacuum gauge indicating 0-30 in. of Hg.

Oh you might be right. I didn’t zoom in on the picture all the way before.

 

[cruiserkev]

No water in the oil or oil in the coolant that I can see. Turning the engine over by hand without the spark plugs in seems to trickle a little more liquid into #4 each time which mostly spits out of the plug hole every time that piston goes up. No other moisture anywhere in the other spark plug holes.

Yes, compression test. Water in the exhaust can be just condensation from running it and not driving it. Is there waterl in the oil?