What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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Item 146?
The driver side splash guard looks like this on my 79
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Thank you...
 
Item 146?
The driver side splash guard looks like this on my 79
View attachment 3444617
Mine looks different. I has a cut-out to go around something. I thought it went around the bump stop but the bolting doesn't work. Hmmm.....
 
Item 146?
The driver side splash guard looks like this on my 79
View attachment 3444617
Ah. Looks like it goes on the passenger side frame rail. I'll check that out tomorrow.
 
Pulled the 4 speed out of my cruiser yesterday. The plan had been to install the h55 today, but found I had a small rear main leak and decided to not be dumb and to wait until next weekend and fix it and then install the h55. Also disconcerted that I will have to modify the transmission tunnel for the H55. I was hoping I wouldn't have to, but it's going to have to happen.

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Should be a cool build.

Anymore info on this rig?
 
It's been 5 years since I took this apart. Anyone know where this bolts up to on the frame? I found a pic on here that showed it next to the motor on the drivers-side frame rail but non of the holes lined up. I almost think it went under the radiator but nothing lines up there either. 1979 FJ40...

View attachment 3444546
Passenger side below the battery
 
This probably has been covered somewhere before….Bent up some stainless welding rod to keep the tire carrier closed. Being cheap and all, decided to make instead of buying…. That being said, with the price of materials, it probably cost more than ordering one 😂

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It's been 5 years since I took this apart. Anyone know where this bolts up to on the frame? I found a pic on here that showed it next to the motor on the drivers-side frame rail but non of the holes lined up. I almost think it went under the radiator but nothing lines up there either. 1979

passenger frame rail, under battery. Mounts on top side of frame. Large oval hole is to align with frame rivet.
 
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Finally drove my 40 today post sniper install and it went wonderfully, a touch loud, but very smooth, immediate throttle response and 0 hesitation. Now tomorrow I'm going to get quotes on running the exhaust from the down pipe back. Local shop recommended a stainless 2 1/2" Flowmaster plus tail pipe just behind the left rear tire ~300. not sure on the series Flowmaster I'll ask if I go with them to do it

 
@nitroid13 ….consider adding a catalytic converter while your at it since the sniper runs a bit fat. And have them weld in an O2 sensor bung.
 
@nitroid13 ….consider adding a catalytic converter while your at it since the sniper runs a bit fat. And have them weld in an O2 sensor bung.
I did put an O2 bung in the down pipe just south of the manifold. Just curious, how does the extra restriction of the cat effect how rich or lean? Does it effect how the O2 sensor reads? Unless it more to do with the carbon emissions
 
Finally drove my 40 today post sniper install and it went wonderfully, a touch loud, but very smooth, immediate throttle response and 0 hesitation. Now tomorrow I'm going to get quotes on running the exhaust from the down pipe back. Local shop recommended a stainless 2 1/2" Flowmaster plus tail pipe just behind the left rear tire ~300. not sure on the series Flowmaster I'll ask if I go with them to do it


That’s what I run on mine. Gives it a nice rumble with that flow master. Just gotta make sure the rear bend is accurate where it exits behind the driver’s side rear tire so it doesn’t interfere with the rear spring/shackle.
 
@nitroid13 …. Let’s see if @wngrog will chime in here. I think the CC is down stream from the O2 sensor.
I’ve been running my sniper since 01/22 and plan on adding a CC as soon as I can.
 
PO had a Holley Carb model 2300 with a 140 jet? It looked pretty rough and well abused. Truck ran, but a lot of fuel in the carb. Took the carb off and removed the float bowl and the intermediate body where the idle mix screws are. All the screws had damaged heads, too small a screw driver or too much force applied. Replaced gaskets and little washers around the bolts, dunked everything in carb cleaner. Replaced needle valve for the float, the o-ring was crusty, replaced that. And when I took the float bowl off one little brass Venturi thing just fell out.
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The idle adjustment screws were missing one o-ring and the remaining one was hard as a rock.
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Put it all back together and on the truck, and it pretty much started right up once I set the float level correctly
 
Clrussell
I believe those were from City Racer. I’ve had them for about 2 years but pretty sure that is correct.

Livininthepast

That tailpipe is a few inches from the light so I don’t think it will hurt the plastic but I am getting ready to take it in for a new muffler and will have it moved further away just so I’m not proven wrong.
 
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