Used it for work one day, did the usual exploring and installed a weboost.
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Heater by-pass pipe leak fixed (replaced the assembly), both by-pass gaskets replaced, plenum gasket replaced, intake manifold gasket replaced, carbon deposits cleaned, throttle body gasket replaced, immediately went offroading up in the mountains for picnic....no leaks so far.
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More importantly than all that boring stuff I finished the driftwood tiki bar sign for the back:
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This is how it was looking not even a couple weeks ago but I keep driving through puddles...
Your next weekend project should be replacing that radiator
WAY ahead of you my friend.Your next weekend project should be replacing that radiator![]()
This is how it was looking not even a couple weeks ago but I keep driving through puddles...
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Hey Paul,
Engine on (idling) 47 psi. Haven't had time to test it in other modes. Just threw it on there today and went to doing other things, but I'll make note of it and post back when I can.
How has it held up over the last few years. Functionally all good?Ever since I bought my LC nearly two years ago the top door/compartment on my center console did not latch. I had a strap holding it to the second door/hatch to keep it closed. I had been looking to buy another upper section and replace, but all options were $$$. So I came up with my own solution that was nearly zero $. I bought a magnet latch off of Amazon and some rivets at the hardware store. View attachment 1719478
And less than 10 minutes later......
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Works perfectly. $13 ish for the latch and rivets. Saved myself about $137 compared to my other options.
I fixed my center console latch by building up the plastic "hook" that broke with JB weld, then sanding it down to shape. Works just like intended,
Thanks flint, I'll add to my date base.Edit/Update:
Took a couple readings tonight to follow up on this.
Wife came home and parked the vehicle. It had been driven for 20 miles at highway speed. I let it sit for 10 minutes and then went and looked at the pressure. It had dropped to about 36 psi.
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I then cranked the engine and let it idle for a few minutes before recording the pressure (about 40 psi).
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Not an OEM t-belt. Odds are the water pump, tensioner, and pulleys aren’t either...I would replace with the Aisin TKT-021 kit just to get that aftermarket and/or never-replaced-high-mileage stuff out of there.Got in to do the drive belt tensioner, you guys think i should do the timing belt too??
It was supposedley done about 25k miles ago but im not so sure now that im looking at it!
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Once my engine warms up and the Denso Reman (from NAPA) the voltage is in the mid-13's. I have had it tested a few times and it has always tested good. Both on the truck and pulled and tested at my local Starter and Alternator shop (Dayton Quality Starter).650+ miles after I tightened the valve cover bolts on the driver, confirmed that no more oil is leaking.View attachment 2616233
Left the lx overnight outside with 40°F temps and the next time I used it the timing belt was flapping around, the timing belt pulley pivoted and the tb had no tension. Had to remove the Aisin tb hydraulic tensioner again to push the pulley towards the belt and reinstalled it again. Tb tight back again. Ordered a new Toyota OEM hydraulic tensioner 13540-50030.
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Took a visual inspection of the reman denso and looks to be fine, I just noticed I’m just getting 13.5V on an average with this alternator.
x2 - mine starts out around 14.2 and then stays mid/upper-13s after warmed-up.Once my Denso Reman (from NAPA) warms up and has been running the voltage is in the mid-13's. I have had it tested a few times and it has always tested good. Both on the truck and pulled and tested at my local Starter and Alternator shop (Dayton Quality Starter).