What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (94 Viewers)

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I spent Friday and Saturday in my stock, supercharged 96 LX450 playing the sand of the Oceano Dunes park. The truck was so much fun , spewing rooster tails of sand when I stepped on it.

Oh yeah, the supercharger delivers!
 
jht3 said:
Been battling a shaking steering wheel under braking for awhile. Most of the time it is minor, but sometimes it gets worse. Already replaced all four calipers as the front passenger side had sticky pistons and pulled hard to one side under braking. Still have a shaking steering wheel some of the time, so moved onto the discs or rotors I've had in the corner for awhile. Was also worried it might be a loosening wheel bearing, so dug in while the weather was still nice and had some time.

One drive flange was RTV'd while the other had an OEM gasket. Found out my lock washers have been abused and re-used many times by prior mechanics. Both of the tangs on the thrust washer were pretty beat up too, and have some noticable gouging I can feel on the faces. Lock nuts have the usual cuts and dings but nothing terrible so going to reuse both sets. Local dealer doesn't have any of this is stock but will have it ready by 8am tomorrow. Should have pre-ordered these just to have on hand but didn't really plan this right.

Haven't done this job in a 20+ years, so help me out:
Should the thrust washer be able to rotate in the spindle threads when torquing the inner lock nut to 43ft lbs?
Should the lock washer be able to rotate when torquing the outer lock nut?

I think the answer is NO to both, so hence ordering all new stuff. The inner tabs on my lock washer and thrust washer hardly engage the channel in the spindle, allowing these to spin/rotate when applying torque. But tomorrow when I got to button all this up, I want to be sure I'm doing it right.

Also wasn't expecting to find Timken bearings. With some discoloration on the inner surface of both. Nothing I can feel with a fingernail, but wondering if this is something to worry about or possible reasons for this.

Spindles seem OK. No wear that I can feel with a fingernail
Click to expand...

Continued my weekend wrenching into my days off so thought I'd update this one.

Good news is my braking is now smoooooth. I think that sticky caliper permanently messed up that disc; more than just simple pad deposits.

Bad news is during my pad/rotor bedding I managed to crack a rear rotor. Whoops. Cracked plenty of front rotors on race cars but not a rear. Not all the way through but cracks on opposing sides of the hat area. Makes a wonderful noise that changes depending on speed....kind of like sticking a baseball card near your bike tire spokes.

New lock washer and thrust washer worked SOOOO much better. Was able to set the nuts to 30 ft lbs (inner) and 47 ft lbs (outer). Now that I know what my bearings look like, a full knuckle rebuild with all new wheel bearings went to the top of the job list. And new rear discs and parking brake shoes happening this weekend (I hope).
 
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New bumper lights! I bought a black plastic cutting board, cut it into six pieces, each 1.5" x 5.25". Made two stacks of three and epoxied them together. Drilled some holes and mounted them in the ARB. Then mounted the lights to them and wired to the turn signals. A 3D printer would probably be more precise than me, but that's not my department. We'll see how it holds up. Really bright!

ARB Bumper New Lights.jpg


Light close up.jpg
 
Not just this week, the culmination of a couple weeks of work, but:
  • removed, machined and reinstalled the head to correct for a coolant/oil mix and low compression in cyl #3; all new OEM gaskets & seals
  • R&R the oil cooler, 'cause I'm a belt + suspenders kind of guy
  • new 35" KO2 AT's as the old ones were too worn to rebalance
  • 1" body lift (made from UMHW & aluminum stock) to clear the 35" tires
  • all new stainless brake lines since I was still using the original lines and found a bubble in a rubber line
  • flushed all the brake fluid, since I was in there already
  • Oil change and coolant flush, since I was already in there
  • new plastic retainers for the rear seat kick plates
I suspect the remaining squish in my brakes is a weak MC, so need to order a kit to reseal that one. Other than that, truck runs like a champ! Good to have her back again.
 
CrabCake said:


@Samuel642000 I have my OEM paper clip if you want it...PM me and it's yours for the cost of shipping. I replaced mine due to whining while hard wheeling, and the cooler upgrade definitely cured it. That said, my OEM part should be in good shape (much better than yours)...just few light bends to get it out, but easy to re-form, especially if you have the radiator out now.
Click to expand...
Thanks man! But I'm looking to add this style cooler for the same reasons!
 
Nay said:
Front birfs and axles replaced with RCV 30 spline inner chromoly upgrade. Hasn’t been too many miles since full rebuild so only replaced inner axle seals and a couple of the paper seals. Also finally installed the Trail Gear outer preload washer kit I bought years ago.

View attachment 3474265

View attachment 3474266

View attachment 3474267

View attachment 3474271

Ran a bead on this and ordered the @Delta VS brace kit, which I’ll install with steering box rebuild/upgrade.

View attachment 3474269
Click to expand...
@Nay those screws I have a thread in this where I even gave a pic for the replacement screws
 
Drove it for the first time in over a month. Had the junction box for the fusible link sitting around that I've been meaning to replace since the now old one was in two pieces being held together by duck tape around it from replacing the fusible link 2 years ago (as PM). Well did the open up a can of worms because replacing it lead to a no start condition, turn key to start and power goes dead, power comes back when out of start. After all day of checking this and that, ensuring tight connections everywhere, I grabbed my spare fusible link, installed and fired up first go. I was able to get it started once before with the old fusible link but as I went to drive there was a weird power surge, radio cycled off and on, and when I went to start it a few times the wipers would move a little.
Morale of the story, always keep a spare fusible link around like so many have suggested before me.
 
Nay said:
@ajax1 what’s the issue with these?
Click to expand...
They will interfere on the flange and break off, I notice after my first wheeling trip up holy cross, when I got back could hear a noise coming from front end. Mine had ground down pretty good, one head was gone. Went to hardware store and found replacements. My thread on this I took a pic of the screws to get. I haven’t had any problem since, I use no loc tight or anything, been a good product other than that. If you have hubs might not be issue?
 
ajax1 said:
Here is the screw pic and a pic of my dogs cause everyone loves dogs

View attachment 3477124

View attachment 3477125
Click to expand...
Interesting, thanks for digging that up I do recall discussion about it now that you mentioned it. I read it wrong, it’s the head size of the bolt being too big that kit comes with a different style bolt now. Really appreciate the heads up :beer:.
 
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