What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (24 Viewers)

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93euroCruiser said:
Been busy working on the HDJ80.

Differentials, T-case, engine oil, and fuel filter all fluids changed.

Tinted rear windows 5% for some privacy, front windows will get tinted in a day or so 15%.

Built custom brackets out of old street sign aluminum and a metal brake for my over head storage system.

ACSD got deleted.

LED headlight upgrade, as well as turn signals and reverse bulbs,

Hoping to start on the coastal off road front bumper this coming weekend.

Last but not least was a good wash and some drone photos.

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That cabin overhead rack looks quite useful. Any details would be appreciate. It looks like it’s screwed into the ceiling but is it screwed into something sturdy?
 
duece71 said:
That cabin overhead rack looks quite useful. Any details would be appreciate. It looks like it’s screwed into the ceiling but is it screwed into something sturdy?
Click to expand...
Its just a 48"x16" shelf from home depot ($15). Removed the rear "Oh s***" handles and bent the aluminum 1x 90 degree bend, one 30 degree bend then fold the side tabs up. Use the handle for a drilling template and it bolts right up using the existing screws from the handles.
 
jht3 said:
Been battling a shaking steering wheel under braking for awhile. Most of the time it is minor, but sometimes it gets worse. Already replaced all four calipers as the front passenger side had sticky pistons and pulled hard to one side under braking. Still have a shaking steering wheel some of the time, so moved onto the discs or rotors I've had in the corner for awhile. Was also worried it might be a loosening wheel bearing, so dug in while the weather was still nice and had some time.

One drive flange was RTV'd while the other had an OEM gasket. Found out my lock washers have been abused and re-used many times by prior mechanics. Both of the tangs on the thrust washer were pretty beat up too, and have some noticable gouging I can feel on the faces. Lock nuts have the usual cuts and dings but nothing terrible so going to reuse both sets. Local dealer doesn't have any of this is stock but will have it ready by 8am tomorrow. Should have pre-ordered these just to have on hand but didn't really plan this right.

View attachment 3474726

Haven't done this job in a 20+ years, so help me out:
Should the thrust washer be able to rotate in the spindle threads when torquing the inner lock nut to 43ft lbs?
Should the lock washer be able to rotate when torquing the outer lock nut?

I think the answer is NO to both, so hence ordering all new stuff. The inner tabs on my lock washer and thrust washer hardly engage the channel in the spindle, allowing these to spin/rotate when applying torque. But tomorrow when I got to button all this up, I want to be sure I'm doing it right.

Also wasn't expecting to find Timken bearings. With some discoloration on the inner surface of both. Nothing I can feel with a fingernail, but wondering if this is something to worry about or possible reasons for this.
View attachment 3474687

Spindles seem OK. No wear that I can feel with a fingernail
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Curious, the FSM does not show the lock washer as being a “non reusable” item. Only the gaskets and seals are non reusable. Interesting.
 
Not the weekend but, I did some Fluid Film touch up to the Krown treatment before salted Road winter apocalypse happens. Mostly frame holes and places that were dry-ish. I bought some extended spray hoses only to find out that the cap assemblies do not come with the valve that sticks down into the top of the spray can. 😢 I ended up using the extended spray tube that came with the fluid film cans and it worked decent enough. I might go back over the underside with one or two more cans just to be sure. Somewhat messy but definitely worth it.

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IMG_9082.jpeg
 
jht3 said:
Been battling a shaking steering wheel under braking for awhile. Most of the time it is minor, but sometimes it gets worse. Already replaced all four calipers as the front passenger side had sticky pistons and pulled hard to one side under braking. Still have a shaking steering wheel some of the time, so moved onto the discs or rotors I've had in the corner for awhile. Was also worried it might be a loosening wheel bearing, so dug in while the weather was still nice and had some time.

One drive flange was RTV'd while the other had an OEM gasket. Found out my lock washers have been abused and re-used many times by prior mechanics. Both of the tangs on the thrust washer were pretty beat up too, and have some noticable gouging I can feel on the faces. Lock nuts have the usual cuts and dings but nothing terrible so going to reuse both sets. Local dealer doesn't have any of this is stock but will have it ready by 8am tomorrow. Should have pre-ordered these just to have on hand but didn't really plan this right.

View attachment 3474726

Haven't done this job in a 20+ years, so help me out:
Should the thrust washer be able to rotate in the spindle threads when torquing the inner lock nut to 43ft lbs?
Should the lock washer be able to rotate when torquing the outer lock nut?

I think the answer is NO to both, so hence ordering all new stuff. The inner tabs on my lock washer and thrust washer hardly engage the channel in the spindle, allowing these to spin/rotate when applying torque. But tomorrow when I got to button all this up, I want to be sure I'm doing it right.

Also wasn't expecting to find Timken bearings. With some discoloration on the inner surface of both. Nothing I can feel with a fingernail, but wondering if this is something to worry about or possible reasons for this.
View attachment 3474687

Spindles seem OK. No wear that I can feel with a fingernail
View attachment 3474688View attachment 3474689
Click to expand...
There's evidence of water inside those hubs.

You need new bearings, races, nuts, washers, and tabbed washers and seals.

Consider starting a dedicated thread on this.
 
jht3 said:
Been battling a shaking steering wheel under braking for awhile. Most of the time it is minor, but sometimes it gets worse. Already replaced all four calipers as the front passenger side had sticky pistons and pulled hard to one side under braking. Still have a shaking steering wheel some of the time, so moved onto the discs or rotors I've had in the corner for awhile. Was also worried it might be a loosening wheel bearing, so dug in while the weather was still nice and had some time.

One drive flange was RTV'd while the other had an OEM gasket. Found out my lock washers have been abused and re-used many times by prior mechanics. Both of the tangs on the thrust washer were pretty beat up too, and have some noticable gouging I can feel on the faces. Lock nuts have the usual cuts and dings but nothing terrible so going to reuse both sets. Local dealer doesn't have any of this is stock but will have it ready by 8am tomorrow. Should have pre-ordered these just to have on hand but didn't really plan this right.

View attachment 3474726

Haven't done this job in a 20+ years, so help me out:
Should the thrust washer be able to rotate in the spindle threads when torquing the inner lock nut to 43ft lbs?
Should the lock washer be able to rotate when torquing the outer lock nut?

I think the answer is NO to both, so hence ordering all new stuff. The inner tabs on my lock washer and thrust washer hardly engage the channel in the spindle, allowing these to spin/rotate when applying torque. But tomorrow when I got to button all this up, I want to be sure I'm doing it right.

Also wasn't expecting to find Timken bearings. With some discoloration on the inner surface of both. Nothing I can feel with a fingernail, but wondering if this is something to worry about or possible reasons for this.
View attachment 3474687

Spindles seem OK. No wear that I can feel with a fingernail
View attachment 3474688View attachment 3474689
Click to expand...
I actually had something similar that caused my steering wheel to shake under braking, so you are in the right place. Granted mine was from the inner lock nut backing off some and welded to the spindle (it weirdly had a gap at the bottom with the top being welded to the upper threads of the spindle).
AFAIR from my semi recent rebuild and just rewatching the OTRAMM video, with the thrust washer in the spindle thread groove, it should not be able to be rotated when torquing down the inner lock nut. Which as you mentioned, by looking at the tabs on your thrust washer, the have been marred and looks to have the ends broken off.
Same for the lock washer, should not rotate with a good tab to engage the channel in the spindle.

For the Timken bearing, Koyo actually bought out Timkens needle roller bearing side of the house in USA back in '09. So if you go the to the local parts store, you can get a Timken box that might have a Koyo stamped bearing inside. For the discoloration, I'd be willing to bet that since the lock washer could rotate, that the lock nuts were able to back off slowly, allowing for the wheel hub bearings to have some lateral vibration movement along the spindle and having an uneven (higher than normal) heating of the bearing, also causing the steering wheel shake when braking. How was the grease in the wheel bearings when you pulled them off? You can sorta see what I am talking about in the 2nd picture where the outer wheel bearing sat, having a bit of larger lateral wear pattern on the spindle on the bottom section there.

If you don't have any sort of damage on the spindle (gouges, pitting, etc), I think you should be good to reuse. New bearings are very reasonably priced for piece of mind.
No expert here by any means, simply my personal experience and what I can tell from the photos.
 
Last edited:
duece71 said:
Not the weekend but, I did some Fluid Film touch up to the Krown treatment before salted Road winter apocalypse happens. Mostly frame holes and places that were dry-ish. I bought some extended spray hoses only to find out that the cap assemblies do not come with the valve that sticks down into the top of the spray can. 😢 I ended up using the extended spray tube that came with the fluid film cans and it worked decent enough. I might go back over the underside with one or two more cans just to be sure. Somewhat messy but definitely worth it.

View attachment 3474863

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Click to expand...
I can smell these pictures
 
surfpig said:
Is she broken in yet?

View attachment 3474817
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Just rolled the same in mine coming home from Fall Crawl...missed the shot by seconds when I grabbed my phone rolling along at 70 at 11:00 at night....need to wait until the 200k now for a good shot!
 
Samuel642000 said:
Would you mind sharing the list of needed parts?
Click to expand...


@Samuel642000 I have my OEM paper clip if you want it...PM me and it's yours for the cost of shipping. I replaced mine due to whining while hard wheeling, and the cooler upgrade definitely cured it. That said, my OEM part should be in good shape (much better than yours)...just few light bends to get it out, but easy to re-form, especially if you have the radiator out now.
 
jht3 said:
Been battling a shaking steering wheel under braking for awhile. Most of the time it is minor, but sometimes it gets worse. Already replaced all four calipers as the front passenger side had sticky pistons and pulled hard to one side under braking. Still have a shaking steering wheel some of the time, so moved onto the discs or rotors I've had in the corner for awhile. Was also worried it might be a loosening wheel bearing, so dug in while the weather was still nice and had some time.

One drive flange was RTV'd while the other had an OEM gasket. Found out my lock washers have been abused and re-used many times by prior mechanics. Both of the tangs on the thrust washer were pretty beat up too, and have some noticable gouging I can feel on the faces. Lock nuts have the usual cuts and dings but nothing terrible so going to reuse both sets. Local dealer doesn't have any of this is stock but will have it ready by 8am tomorrow. Should have pre-ordered these just to have on hand but didn't really plan this right.

View attachment 3474726

Haven't done this job in a 20+ years, so help me out:
Should the thrust washer be able to rotate in the spindle threads when torquing the inner lock nut to 43ft lbs?
Should the lock washer be able to rotate when torquing the outer lock nut?

I think the answer is NO to both, so hence ordering all new stuff. The inner tabs on my lock washer and thrust washer hardly engage the channel in the spindle, allowing these to spin/rotate when applying torque. But tomorrow when I got to button all this up, I want to be sure I'm doing it right.

Also wasn't expecting to find Timken bearings. With some discoloration on the inner surface of both. Nothing I can feel with a fingernail, but wondering if this is something to worry about or possible reasons for this.
View attachment 3474687

Spindles seem OK. No wear that I can feel with a fingernail
View attachment 3474688View attachment 3474689
Click to expand...
You are correct, thrust washer and lock tabs should absolutely not spin when torquing down. I'd go with new bearings in there plus the new locking hardware.

That said, if you remember when we chatted when you grabbed the spare tire, I think I mentioned that I was having a funky brake issue myself. I actually found that my one side was not torqued down properly after the grease settled in the bearings and was a bit loose after my new axle and bearing install. Tightened up and brakes are perfect again. I saw a vid about tightening to spec, putting the tire back on, whacking with a maul around the tire several times, spinning, and re-checking torque a few times to get the extra bearing grease distributed...didn't do this on mine and ended up costing me about $1k in new booster, master, etc. chasing my "brake" issue that wasn't really the brakes, but just a by product of a loose wheel bearing! o_O
 
BILT4ME said:
There's evidence of water inside those hubs.
Click to expand...
thanks for the input. a full rebuild is on the to-do list, this was mostly exploratory to get an idea if i need to add spindle's and other unusual parts to the list.
i don't see or feel any pitting or corrosion i would typically associate with water. just some discoloration, which i thought might be due to excessive heat from a loose bearing. the pattern on the washers seems to support this. but i don't have lots of experience here.

WhitePhoenix said:
AFAIR from my semi recent rebuild and just rewatching the OTRAMM video, with the thrust washer in the spindle thread groove, it should not be able to be rotated when torquing down the inner lock nut. Which as you mentioned, by looking at the tabs on your thrust washer, the have been marred and looks to have the ends broken off.
Same for the lock washer, should not rotate with a good tab to engage the channel in the spindle.

For the discoloration, I'd be willing to bet that since the lock washer could rotate, that the lock nuts were able to back off slowly, allowing for the wheel hub bearings to have some lateral vibration movement along the spindle and having an uneven (higher than normal) heating of the bearing, also causing the steering wheel shake when braking. How was the grease in the wheel bearings when you pulled them off? You can sorta see what I am talking about in the 2nd picture where the outer wheel bearing sat, having a bit of larger lateral wear pattern on the spindle on the bottom section there.

If you don't have any sort of damage on the spindle (gouges, pitting, etc), I think you should be good to reuse. New bearings are very reasonably priced for piece of mind.
No expert here by any means, simply my personal experience and what I can tell from the photos.
Click to expand...
thanks. the existing grease is well....grease. i don't know what went in there last but i suspect a typical grade bearing grease, not a fully synthetic bright red. doesn't seem watery or broken down badly. no idea on when this job was last done.
the spindle section where the bearings ride is polished smooth. unlike the other surfaces which have a peened type surface. there is a small lip i can catch with a fingernail on the under side where the outer bearing rides. not sure if that qualifies as too worn.

CrabCake said:
You are correct, thrust washer and lock tabs should absolutely not spin when torquing down. I'd go with new bearings in there plus the new locking hardware.

That said, if you remember when we chatted when you grabbed the spare tire, I think I mentioned that I was having a funky brake issue myself. I actually found that my one side was not torqued down properly after the grease settled in the bearings and was a bit loose after my new axle and bearing install. Tightened up and brakes are perfect again. I saw a vid about tightening to spec, putting the tire back on, whacking with a maul around the tire several times, spinning, and re-checking torque a few times to get the extra bearing grease distributed...didn't do this on mine and ended up costing me about $1k in new booster, master, etc. chasing my "brake" issue that wasn't really the brakes, but just a by product of a loose wheel bearing!
Click to expand...
i remember. which got my brain thinking i should give the bearings a closer inspection when i put on the new rotors.
 
E Cube said:
I installed the auxiliary fan kit from Maxflate Air systems to my rig. Easy to install only caveat was that you needed to print out the installation instructions from their website but other than that everything else was included. Tested the aux. fan while over-landing this weekend and worked as advertised.

View attachment 3474426
Click to expand...
Any pics of it installed? And your impressions?
 
E Cube said:
I installed the auxiliary fan kit from Maxflate Air systems to my rig. Easy to install only caveat was that you needed to print out the installation instructions from their website but other than that everything else was included. Tested the aux. fan while over-landing this weekend and worked as advertised.

View attachment 3474426
Click to expand...
Isn't that LCP design? And the product's description is literally a cut and paste of Phil's......(sad!)
@LandCruiserPhil
 
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