What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (34 Viewers)

[desmocruiser]

Steering geometry footnote:

Removing the steering wheel and "re-clocking" it to make it "level" affects centering of the steering box. You will now have fewer turns to stop in one direction than the other. In addition the steering box is now off of its natural center which is where it wants to be to have neutral hydraulic pressure.

The steering box will be in a slight turn when the vehicle is traveling straight. There will also be more steering effort, from one direction to the other when transitioning from straight line travel.

Bottom line is pulling and re-clocking the steering wheel will straighten it out but it really isn't the right way to do it. That is the drag link's job.

YMMV

Is there some risk to the spring inside the mechanism if you re oriente the steering wheel to recenter as well?

 

[Wrencher93]

There is a scribed line on the end of the sector shaft, at the pitman arm end. That line should be pointed straight forward.

It is important to remember that if the sector shaft is twisted you can point the line straight but the box centering will still be off due to the twist. Twisting occurs above the pitman arm, at the base of the splines.

So if you center the mark and have good alignment but there's still a pull - you might want to rebuild that box, huh?

 

[cruiserdan]

So if you center the mark and have good alignment but there's still a pull - you might want to rebuild that box, huh?

If everything is centered properly and not bent the pull could be something else. A dragging brake, a tire pull, the crown of the road and so-on. I've had a tire pull before, it was weird. I swapped the front tires side-to-side and the pull switched sides along with the tires.

 

[cruiserdan]

Is there some risk to the spring inside the mechanism if you re oriente the steering wheel to recenter as well?

I presume you mean the airbag spiral cable or "clockspring"? No risk other than what is normally associated with dealing with those.

 

[george_tlc]

Well, sitting on the floor right now, but will end up replacing the rubber bump stops when I get up enough motivation to drop the front coils out. Being the dual rate dobs - they are tall when unsprung and somewhat of a pain to get on/off.

My (dear) wife picked them up on a w/end road trip down to disneyland (older son works very near there). Saved him dealing with shipping them up to me This 'should' be the last upgrade/prezzie for our 80 this year! Were a good deal.

cheers,
george.

 

[Wrencher93]

Well, sitting on the floor right now, but will end up replacing the rubber bump stops when I get up enough motivation to drop the front coils out. Being the dual rate dobs - they are tall when unsprung and somewhat of a pain to get on/off.

My (dear) wife picked them up on a w/end road trip down to disneyland (older son works very near there). Saved him dealing with shipping them up to me This 'should' be the last upgrade/prezzie for our 80 this year! Were a good deal.

cheers,
george.

Let us know how those work out. I'm curious about hydraulic bump stops. Might get some eventually.

 

[cruiserdan]

Did you get new radius arm mounts from Toyota or just add material.

The brackets are not serviced. You buy the axle housing to get them.

 

[bonestock]

Partial ARB install. I was able to get a little shop time with @Jboyd and slap this bad boy on. 30 minutes to this level if installation.

WKOR sliders shipped yesterday. Still have about 40 gallons of diesel to burn between CA > GA. Should arrive next Wednesday. Hope to be able to wheel her up next weekend.

 

[Box Rocket]

Stock gears? pulling in reverse? That sucks man.

4.88 Nitros. Jumping the truck at 70mph

 

[Box Rocket]

Is this related to the ditch that killed your spare carrier?

Same trip but hundreds of miles apart.

 

[Wrencher93]

Same trip but hundreds of miles apart.

Hundreds of miles apart or hundreds of parts in that mile?

 

[cruiserdan]

4.88 Nitros.

Damn! that's what I have.

Jumping the truck at 70mph

Oh, never mind then.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Same trip but hundreds of miles apart.

Our high speed wheeling here in Utah is hard on our rigs!!!!!

I was doing about 70 when this happened a few years ago.

 

[efjayatee]

Our high speed wheeling here in Utah is hard on our rigs!!!!!

I was doing about 70 when this happened a few years ago.

View attachment 2842438

 

[roflbox]

Our high speed wheeling here in Utah is hard on our rigs!!!!!

I was doing about 70 when this happened a few years ago.

View attachment 2842438

did you take a bite out of your seat after that? O_O

 

[Feldrian]

Our high speed wheeling here in Utah is hard on our rigs!!!!!

I was doing about 70 when this happened a few years ago.

View attachment 2842438

Note the nice polished spot where the bump stop has been contacting the spring perch. Definitely been having some fun. =P

 

[Mosez]

Our high speed wheeling here in Utah is hard on our rigs!!!!!

I was doing about 70 when this happened a few years ago.

View attachment 2842438

This reminded me of a great Space Quest quote after the protagonist crashes his hovercraft: "Everything that was straight is bent. Everything that was bent is benter."

 

[94trilocked]

So, Saturday night The FedEx Fairy delivered my muffler, so, now I have all of the parts to replace my exhaust. Being a nice day out this halloween I decided early this morning would be a great time to whack out the old and whack in the new...
Two nuts in, sheared the rear-most exhaust manifold stud. Great, I had bought 4 of those studs anyway, and I am past the point of no-return...
Not going to let this hold me up.

I could have sworn I had a new pack of sawzall blades, but I made do with the worn out ones I had. Everything came out relatively easy.
I took off the rear bumper-ettes because they were hiding some minor lower quarter panel rust and I am replacing the exhaust hanger brackets as well. Pulled the tow hitch as well - sheared the two forward bolts on each side, bolts holding the tow hooks came out OK. There is considerable rust through in the rear bumper member. The 4x4 Labs bumper would solve that problem.

Ugh, now my neck/back are killing me. Still want to clean up the frame rail a bit. I have some linseed oil black paint I was going to slap on there. Going to order some exhaust manifold studs/nuts/gasket and perhaps a set of manifolds themselves. And some extremely long gear wrench.

While not as smooth an operation as I had imagined it would be... It'll be fine...

Hope I don't have to go anywhere this week!

Exhaust install finished tonight.

I used Magnaflow 24455, non-CA compliant direct fit cats. OEM downpipes, OEM Y pipe, OEM rear section/resonator, brackets, insulators. Didn't want to spring for the OEM cats (available) and couldn't find an OEM muffler ('center section' NLA?) and ended up with a BRExhaust muffler from cruiserparts.net - seems lighter than OEM, but it's under there now. Painted everything with VHT exhaust primer and paint.

The cat shield standoffs/guts/straps were rusted out and were just sorta flopping around - I didn't want that annoying rattle. I will probably figure out some retainer structure inside the shields and install them, unless someone has a brilliant suggestion.
I didn't paint the manifolds... instead, I scrapped off as much rust as possible (I didn't try that hard) wiped them down in raw linseed oil. My thought here is that they'll season like a frying pan.

I need to clean up the manifold heat shields (VHT them) and put them on. The chassis rust is a little disconcerting and needs to be addressed, especially in the ass-end. I removed the PAIR and put the O2 sensors in the holes, made block offs on the downpipes. Some additional tidying up and an oil change...

Just reading the "Stolen Cat" threads... guys - if you're going to steal them, just unbolt them - thx!

I kept my OEM cats, the only thing apparently wrong with them are the flanges, which can be fixed.

 

[Bludozer]

Jumping the truck at 70mph

I think I maybe hit 38 once or twice last time I was in Utah.

 

[nigelsiam]

Exhaust install finished tonight.

I used Magnaflow 24455, non-CA compliant direct fit cats. OEM downpipes, OEM Y pipe, OEM rear section/resonator, brackets, insulators. Didn't want to spring for the OEM cats (available) and couldn't find an OEM muffler ('center section' NLA?) and ended up with a BRExhaust muffler from cruiserparts.net - seems lighter than OEM, but it's under there now. Painted everything with VHT exhaust primer and paint.

The cat shield standoffs/guts/straps were rusted out and were just sorta flopping around - I didn't want that annoying rattle. I will probably figure out some retainer structure inside the shields and install them, unless someone has a brilliant suggestion.
I didn't paint the manifolds... instead, I scrapped off as much rust as possible (I didn't try that hard) wiped them down in raw linseed oil. My thought here is that they'll season like a frying pan.

I need to clean up the manifold heat shields (VHT them) and put them on. The chassis rust is a little disconcerting and needs to be addressed, especially in the ass-end. I removed the PAIR and put the O2 sensors in the holes, made block offs on the downpipes. Some additional tidying up and an oil change...

Just reading the "Stolen Cat" threads... guys - if you're going to steal them, just unbolt them - thx!

I kept my OEM cats, the only thing apparently wrong with them are the flanges, which can be fixed.

View attachment 2842479View attachment 2842480View attachment 2842481View attachment 2842482

Exhaust looks good but....you might want to spray the sh*t out of your undercarriage with some Fluid Film or something before it's too late.