Apparently three is a crowd so one of these gals needs to go. Keep Molly the white '94 or keep Lenny the black '96. Molly is a complete build and Lenny is stock an would allow me to correct all my previous errors ... decisions decisionsView attachment 2681420
Finally started Tearing down the donor motor, it’s pretty cooked on the inside but will Be a full rebuild. PO said it never overheated but looks like it lacked oil changes. I didn’t get the correct hardware to mount to the engine stand so the hoist is still in my way till tomorrow. Going to send the head of, send injectors for rebuild, and not sure what to do with block I don’t really know what to look for??? I want to turbo next year so kinda wanna be sure everything is solid. Also wasn’t sure if I should have removed the rear portion that connects to the flywheel?? First time doing a job this big.
Finally started Tearing down the donor motor, it’s pretty cooked on the inside but will Be a full rebuild. PO said it never overheated but looks like it lacked oil changes. I didn’t get the correct hardware to mount to the engine stand so the hoist is still in my way till tomorrow. Going to send the head of, send injectors for rebuild, and not sure what to do with block I don’t really know what to look for??? I want to turbo next year so kinda wanna be sure everything is solid. Also wasn’t sure if I should have removed the rear portion that connects to the flywheel?? First time doing a job this big.
So, typically one would unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate (flywheel) while engine and transmission are still attached. Then the torque converter stays in the transmission, since it can be a pain to get it properly lined up and back in place.
So another update on the jumped 80 I posted about earlier in the thread.
His steering box is busted internally. Rather than mess around with finding parts and rebuilding it the owner has opted for a new RHD 105 steering box.
Getting a good RHD front housing is not easy here in the USA. Shipping a housing from Japan or Australia is expensive, on top of the $1000 purchase price of a new OEM housing. So we are purchasing a Diamond housing, cutting all his brackets off his housing and welding them on the Diamond.
No need for caster correction, it is built in. Pinion angle will also be set to stock.
I will post pics while we are doing the work, which will be awhile because we have to wait for the Diamond housing.
@TRAIL TAILOR is CNC'ing 4130 knuckballs if you are interested in sending them to Diamond. It doesn't sound like this truck is super extreme but if you are already going through the hassle.....
@TRAIL TAILOR is CNC'ing 4130 knuckballs if you are interested in sending them to Diamond. It doesn't sound like this truck is super extreme but if you are already going through the hassle.....
Does Thursday count?
Swapped driver window glass and regulator tonight. Much faster and clearer but has a lil ratchet noise so will go back in....... after a state inspection tomorrow.
So, typically one would unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate (flywheel) while engine and transmission are still attached. Then the torque converter stays in the transmission, since it can be a pain to get it properly lined up and back in place.
I learned...
...while picking up all the snipped off LED's that fell to the carpet while rebuilding the third brake light ... and finding a shiny ball bearing in the process...
that evidently,
the steering box doesn't need all the balls it comes with to function. At least not on this particular '93 unit.
Obviously this isn't acceptable and I'll get it back in there asap. Just
On the flip, the 3rd brake light turned out well enough.
Looks just like the setup I came up with! Been on for about 6 months now with no issues. Way better than the rusted/corroded paper clip. I was thinking of doing something similar with the transmission cooler w/ AN fittings since all of those hoses were way past done and the metal lines through the radiator support were also toast. Decided to just keep it plain by replacing the hoses for now. That's a fun project for another day....
Did you label your cam buckets? Looks like they are tossed in a bag... If not and so, your shims are now all mixed up and you will need to have them measured and set.
Did you label your cam buckets? Looks like they are tossed in a bag... If not and so, your shims are now all mixed up and you will need to have them measured and set.
Yeah, those definitely should have been laid out in order along with the cam caps (which are fortunately labeled). Once the head is off, the buckets and cams need to be loosely assembled to the head before sending to the machine shop.
As for the engine block, unless you intend to buy or borrow all the measuring tools and spend hours educating yourself on engine measurements, you may want to get it to a builder/machine shop to be checked completely. To be ready for forced induction, you should probably be prepared to at least put in new bearings.
Did you label your cam buckets? Looks like they are tossed in a bag... If not and so, your shims are now all mixed up and you will need to have them measured and set.
As for the engine block, unless you intend to buy or borrow all the measuring tools and spend hours educating yourself on engine measurements, you may want to get it to a builder/machine shop to be checked completely. To be ready for forced induction, you should probably be prepared to at least put in new bearings.