What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (76 Viewers)

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@Azca. Thanks for the tip on the starter I was not aware of this.

I am planning on pulling just the motor due to avaliable space on my garage.

Tips like this are really helpful!
 
Sorry all! My 12:30am sense of humor does not translate on the post. I was hoping for a reply on the order of, "UM YOU HAVE ALL YOUR $#!% STILL CONNECTED!".

I just put the hoist together and made sure it would reach center point of the motor.

I have not touched the LC yet. I have a lot of work ahead of me that next few days.

I should have know the people on this forum being the emensfully helpful lot that you are when straight into trouble shooting mode.

🤥
Oh, well now that we know you're OK with humor like that........We'll open the flood gates! ;)
 
I found where the 3FE keeps all its nuts! I might shake off the air cleaner once or twice as well 🤔.

What is that term again? Deferred Maintenance?

I'll add this to the parts list.

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I have to ask, did you guys ever find the princess?

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But seriously, that looks like a good time. I'm afraid to go plinking with the current ammo rates :(
That's funny! The hood on my wife's coat is pretty massive. Took me a second to get the reference but it's pretty fitting.
 
LOL, it's funny seeing regions come to a complete crawl when it snows a few inches. Emergency or not you have to get out in the 80 and play!!! Maybe pull a few people out of a ditch or two. BS the wifey into having to pick something important up and go play.
BTW, push brooms work good on the sidewalk and driveway. I don't even use a shovel personally, at least 6" or under. Just don't walk on it first...
In fairness, snow in places that rarely get it usually isn't powder you can push with a broom- it's wet and heavy. And has a 1/2" of ice underneath because the storm started as freezing rain. Kind of like those October storms in Denver and Minneapolis everyone likes to forget.
 
Front diff service - pulled 3rd member to R&R leaking paper gasket. Went back with FIPG. New inner axle seals, new nut/stud hardware from @NLXTACY, Lucas 75w90 refill. Spent a good bit of time cleaning the inside of the axle housing.

Tune-up service- kit from Joey at WitsEnd. Oil change with Toyota oil and filter. Cleaned throttle body.
Filled her up with high-octane and gave it hell!
 
This weekend I learned that I was the short, overweight kid lacking power.

That is to say, I went wheeling in the snow with some serious snow wheelers. The guy in the photo ahead of me is on 40" tires. Three other trucks with bigger tires, bigger lifts, and much less weight than mine were breaking the trail and we still reached a point (at the crux of of the route) where I was sliding down the hill instead of crawling up.

No problem, I think. I'll winch up past the crux and hope for the best on the way down. That went great for a few minutes until the wet snow building up in front of and under the truck turned into cement. Then the winch started whining slower, power flickered and my whole system died and wouldn't start without a jump pack.

Being the powerless, short and overweight kid was not fun. I'm not planning to rip everything out to loose weight and a higher lift isn't in my near future. So today turned into power upgrade day and I've got the wheels in motion for the Sequoia alternator upgrade. Maybe next time I can at least pull myself up the rope when I can't climb...


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In fairness, snow in places that rarely get it usually isn't powder you can push with a broom- it's wet and heavy. And has a 1/2" of ice underneath because the storm started as freezing rain. Kind of like those October storms in Denver and Minneapolis everyone likes to forget.
This weekend I learned that I was the short, overweight kid lacking power.

That is to say, I went wheeling in the snow with some serious snow wheelers. The guy in the photo ahead of me is on 40" tires. Three other trucks with bigger tires, bigger lifts, and much less weight than mine were breaking the trail and we still reached a point (at the crux of of the route) where I was sliding down the hill instead of crawling up.

No problem, I think. I'll winch up past the crux and hope for the best on the way down. That went great for a few minutes until the wet snow building up in front of and under the truck turned into cement. Then the winch started whining slower, power flickered and my whole system died and wouldn't start without a jump pack.

Being the powerless, short and overweight kid was not fun. I'm not planning to rip everything out to loose weight and a higher lift isn't in my near future. So today turned into power upgrade day and I've got the wheels in motion for the Sequoia alternator upgrade. Maybe next time I can at least pull myself up the rope when I can't climb...


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If you haven't installed the throttle handle, that would help. I tend to crank my throttle up very high when winching so I don't drain my battery.
 
How long does it take for one of you experienced mechanics to pull a 3FE motor?

So far I am about 7 hrs in. I think I will be at 12 - 14 hrs. Frankly I am a bit over my head and this is a lot of work!

Granted my LC is very crusty which adds some time.

Any tips for getting the big bolt off on the main belt drive? Also how to get the main belt drive off for that matter?

Now I have to go watch 24/7 Action and Stuck at Inskip for motivation!

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How long does it take for one of you experienced mechanics to pull a 3FE motor?

So far I am about 7 hrs in. I think I will be at 12 - 14 hrs. Frankly I am a bit over my head and this is a lot of work!

Granted my LC is very crusty which adds some time.

Any tips for getting the big bolt off on the main belt drive? Also how to get the main belt drive off for that matter?

Now I have to go watch 24/7 Action and Stuck at Inskip for motivation!

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You don't need to pull that off to pull the engine.

If you've pulled an engine before, you should be in the 7-8 hour range or less.

However, with all the corrosion going on there, taking the time to label wiring connections, taking pictures before disassembly, reading the FSM, and finding the right tools, yes, you'll easily be in the 12-14 hour range.
It's better to take your time and understand what you're doing than to blast through, rip everything out, than to try to figure out what went where when it goes back in.

You can do most of the engine disassembly on the stand, not in the truck.

Remove the exhaust pipe from the manifold, disconnect the wiring harness at each point (alternator, sensors, AC, etc.) Radiator hoses, heater hoses, transmission bell housing bolts, torque converter bolts, and engine mounts.

You'll need to support the front of the transmission since it looks like you're just pulling the engine.

Don't unhook things that you can leave intact. AC lines, leave attached to compressor and remove compressor off to the side with all still attached UNLESS it's already discharged and you will be replacing a lot of parts on that system.
Leave the transmission cooler lines (if the 3FE has them) unless a line is inhibiting you from pulling the engine.

The PS pump may be able to be removed from the engine and sat off to the side so you don't have to drain and refill all that system. Unless you're rehabbing that too.

If you haven't already, I hope you're bagging bolts and labelling where they go. That's a life saver later. Do a bag for each component. You may have 30 bags by the time you're done,some with only one or two bolts.

I once pulled an engine out of a 1969 Chevy K10 in under an hour. However, that was the third time in three weeks, so I had it down and all hardware was well lubed and all labelling was already done. That time was from driving it in to pushing it back out with the hood back on it.
The guy across the street wash still washing his truck in the driveway from before I started to after I finished.

Good luck!
 
Thank you @BILT4ME . I am afraid I may not have done as good of a job on labeling wiring and hoses up to this point. I am going to heed your advise and pause to label what wiring I've done so far (there is plenty more to go).

I think I have followed your advise on just about everything else. In stead of bags I am using a large box that is on the windshield and label as I go.

The main belt pulley will likely need to come of at some point. I am going to do some searching in tech. I am sure that question has been asked and answered at some point.

I am probably at a point where I need to do some reading around where all the motor secure points are. There seems to be a number of very hard to reach bolts at the top of the bell housing. I bought about 4ft worth of locking and wobbly socket extensions.

7-8 hours for someone who know what their doing sounds about right. Knowledge and experience seems like it could easily cut the time in half. I wish I had owned this rig for awhile and built up some experience before tackling a motor swap.

Thanks again!
 
Thank you @BILT4ME . I am afraid I may not have done as good of a job on labeling wiring and hoses up to this point. I am going to heed your advise and pause to label what wiring I've done so far (there is plenty more to go).

I think I have followed your advise on just about everything else. In stead of bags I am using a large box that is on the windshield and label as I go.

The main belt pulley will likely need to come of at some point. I am going to do some searching in tech. I am sure that question has been asked and answered at some point.

I am probably at a point where I need to do some reading around where all the motor secure points are. There seems to be a number of very hard to reach bolts at the top of the bell housing. I bought about 4ft worth of locking and wobbly socket extensions.

7-8 hours for someone who know what their doing sounds about right. Knowledge and experience seems like it could easily cut the time in half. I wish I had owned this rig for awhile and built up some experience before tackling a motor swap.

Thanks again!
Folks usually use a long breaker bar lashed to the frame rail for the crank pulley bolt. They then bump the starter to loosen the bolt. No experience personally, but that’s the process I’ve read.
 
@BILT4ME is right with everything he said above. Bag and tag. Many bags. I should have used far more than I did on my rebuild. You may want to get/print the parts diagrams from the FSM, number the bags (not part numbers, takes too long,) and the FSM pages to locate easily. Also get three or four boxes for the parts. one for each side, top and bottom. Easier to locate the parts later. You may also want to get larger freezer bags to put the smaller bags in to group them. Sounds over the top but, makes for putting everything back together much quicker.

Take tons of photos. Point to parts that you are not familiar with and label where possible.

Should have cleaned the bejesus out of it before, too late now. Get a cheap parts washer, you will use it. You may want to clean the parts as you go, once reassembly starts, everything is already clean and you can take your time. It is nice to work on only clean equipment!

Let the air out of your tires for a little more clearance.


 
Thank you @BILT4ME . I am afraid I may not have done as good of a job on labeling wiring and hoses up to this point. I am going to heed your advise and pause to label what wiring I've done so far (there is plenty more to go).

I think I have followed your advise on just about everything else. In stead of bags I am using a large box that is on the windshield and label as I go.

The main belt pulley will likely need to come of at some point. I am going to do some searching in tech. I am sure that question has been asked and answered at some point.

I am probably at a point where I need to do some reading around where all the motor secure points are. There seems to be a number of very hard to reach bolts at the top of the bell housing. I bought about 4ft worth of locking and wobbly socket extensions.

7-8 hours for someone who know what their doing sounds about right. Knowledge and experience seems like it could easily cut the time in half. I wish I had owned this rig for awhile and built up some experience before tackling a motor swap.

Thanks again!
Saw that it was on those roller thinga-ma-jigs to move the truck around. Everything I’ve read is that unless you buy really really nice ones that they aren’t going to roll for crap. I’d image with a truck as heave as the 80 that they are basically worthless. Along with lowering the tires pressure as suggested above, you might as well remove those rollers for more clearance as well.
 
@BILT4ME is right with everything he said above. Bag and tag. Many bags. I should have used far more than I did on my rebuild. You may want to get/print the parts diagrams from the FSM, number the bags (not part numbers, takes too long,) and the FSM pages to locate easily. Also get three or four boxes for the parts. one for each side, top and bottom. Easier to locate the parts later. You may also want to get larger freezer bags to put the smaller bags in to group them. Sounds over the top but, makes for putting everything back together much quicker.

Take tons of photos. Point to parts that you are not familiar with and label where possible.

Should have cleaned the bejesus out of it before, too late now. Get a cheap parts washer, you will use it. You may want to clean the parts as you go, once reassembly starts, everything is already clean and you can take your time. It is nice to work on only clean equipment!

Let the air out of your tires for a little more clearance.


@Azca. I would have liked to clean thing up a lot more and I did drop $15 at the car wash. With at said. I definitely did not do a through enough job on the engine bay. If you can believe it it was a lot worse.

I am going to have a pause day and review the 30+ pictures I took and label, label, label! This is the point where I am going to need a couple of paint pens.

I will let the air out to get a few more inches. I'm 6'4" and tend to worry about things being too low.

Thanks again for the solid advice. I think my anxiety was coming from lack of labeling. It was starting to get to the point where I felt I could not remember each thing I took off.
 

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