LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
For those who actually wheel their vehicles, steel is not a bad option.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (55 Viewers)
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It's hard to respond to inline quotes, but you may "think" your first too "wrongs" are right, but that would be only true in your own mind.
The only thing in dispute for anyone with 2 IQ points and a basic knowledge in metallurgy is how "repairable" steel wheels are. And the ONLY reason steel wheels are repairable is because they are not as hard as aluminum.
Being repairable does not = strong.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Steel may not be a bad option. However, this was discussed by people much smarter than me. An engineer from Toyota even weighed in. There is a thread about it. Interesting read. The consensus was that steel is field repairable. That aluminum is stronger. And if you carry a spare this is irrelevant.
Factory Toyota alloy less reciprocating weight = more power
Never a problem with factory Toyota alloy
Never a problem with factory Toyota alloy
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
Jeez. Without going down this road again, steel is ~2 times stronger than aluminum and ~2 times denser. Don't confuse the antiquated aluminum these wheels are made of will the much better modern, 'stronger' aluminum alloys we have today used in special fields (aircraft for one). I guess if it took my "2 IQ" (points, I'm assuming) to figure that out than it took only 1 IQ (point) for you to get it wrong! Weight may be a trade-off but that's not a concern of mine. Plenty for you to read up on. I'm out of this discussion.
Man am I missing getting away for a sunny vacation this winter right about now...
Wayne
Bought by His blood, kept by His power
I installed PFan's interior LED's and WOW what a difference. Great upgrade for under $100. I highly recommend.
I got the Tokico OEM Toyota shocks and new OEM sway bar bushings installed with the the help of my son. We ended up being the subject of an upcoming article on the MWR Autocraft shop on base. Lots of action shots of the FZJ80 going up and down on a lift and the father-son bonding of "Why do we use anti-seize?" "Double check the torque spec" and "How to use a torque wrench".
In regards to the end result, I am VERY impressed with the ride of the Tokicos combined with fresh sway bushings and the OME 861/862 low height springs. Controlled, stable and firm without being harsh.
B
In regards to the end result, I am VERY impressed with the ride of the Tokicos combined with fresh sway bushings and the OME 861/862 low height springs. Controlled, stable and firm without being harsh.
B
@Aloha Jen Dayamm. Please don't leave this forum...
Aghhh nice left...no crowds??
Found out I need to rebuild the front axle 
...thats a bunch of moly grease caked onto the mag.
...thats a bunch of moly grease caked onto the mag.
Found out I need to rebuild the front axle
How many miles on the dif oil?
I changed what I thought was a leaking pesky heater hose but it turns out I have a pin hole leak in a smaller coolant hose just to the left of the PHH. It goes up under the intake manifold. Any pearls of wisdom about changing this one? Does the intake manifold have to come off?
bloc
SILVER Star
IM stays on, just the throttle body needs removed. That line goes to the rear of the TB, do the short front line also while you are in there. Make sure you get a TB gasket.. they are reusable but sometimes don't come off clean. Also maybe an IAC o-ring.
No idea. PO said it was done recently. But who knows that that means. Truck only has 106k on it so figured I would change for piece of mind. Any other causes for this?
With the possibility of this being the first oil change I would run it for another 20K/1 year or maybe less. Then check it again before I would consider rebuilding anything. Although not ideal does not look that uncommon on a new diff with 106k.
I love your truck. I so wish mine was white. I'm slowing starting to hate green...
