TheGrrrrr's 1994 80 Series Build Thread - "The Notorious B.G.E." (3 Viewers)

[TheGrrrrr]

I'm no Dr. Seuss but this thing looks like one of those Big Green Egg grills and its piloted by a notorious fatass and sometimes HAM operator, the obvious naming choice would be Green Egg and Ham, but since the previous owner dressed it up as a... Lexus LX Four-and-a-half... I think I'm going with "The Notorious B.G.E."


Today I purchased a 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser. Here is what I know:

Odometer: 382,217
Engine Rebuilt in August 2021 at ~378,000 miles
Transfer Case replaced in December 2021 at 379,000 miles
Exterior: Rhino-line or Raptor Liner - Land Cruiser Green
Interior: Grey Cloth
Lockers/Gears: Not factory 3x locked but does have a rear eLocker and an ARB front locker along with 4.88 Nitro Gears
Bumpers: ARB Front, Avid Cruisers Rear
Armor: MetalTech 4x4 Sliders with Cat Guard
Electrical: Dual Odyssey Red Batteries with Redarc BCDC Charging
Suspension: OME Nitrocharger 60070l/71;2863/2850J Springs, OME Caster Bushing 2 degree CA77B, Delta Rear Panhard Bracket
Wheels/Tires: 16" Lexus OEM (???)/315/75r16 Duratracs
Front Seats: Corbeau Sport Seat 2023 - Driver and Passenger
Storage: Land Shark Outfitters KISS Drawers, Wit's End Quarter Panel Mounting system.
Cooling: Additional electric auxiliary fan from 100 Series?

List of work done (very incomplete based on physical receipts from 3rd owner covering 2019 to present):

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Initial photos continued:

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Current Plan:

• Full inventory of mods/upgrades
• Full inspection of functional components, buttons/dials/interfaces/bulbs/belts/hoses
• 17" Wheels (Method 305 17x9 0 offset/4.75 BS) with 1.25" spacers and 37x12.5x17 Ridge Grapplers
• Headlight Upgrade (Suggestions welcome) DEPO?
• Knuckle Rebuild
• Wheel the bejeezus out of this Big Green Egg from Hell

 

[LongDuck]

One thing I noticed: you're missing the rear resonator (*mini-muffler behind the rear axle) if that matters to you. It helps to cut down on droning under steady state throttle. Otherwise, is looking like a clean build with a lot of nice touches by someone who cared about it (stainless wrapped brake lines, front stabilizer bar extensions, etc.)

Also, check yer nuts!

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Post-purchase list of issues to get sorted (updating, also includes my notes to myself):

• Headlights are very dim and high beams don't seem to work. No high beam indicator on dash when switched on.
• Too much of the aftermarket wiring is using add-a-fuse instead of a proper distribution system.
• Winch not responding to wireless remote. Need to diagnose power supply/switching?
• Flickering CDL dash light when turned on
• Maybe, possibly slightly more lean to passenger than seems normal even for a cruiser. Maybe not.
• Intermittent CEL code 25 and 26, but it seems to be running fine and the light comes and goes. O2 sensors have been replaced somewhate recently. Need to identify patterns.
• Rear camera not getting signal to aftermarket radio/display
• Lexus grill is annoying. Need to find original or cool aftermarket.
• Mix and match of LED and oem bulbs throughout interior. Different color temps throughout. Need an exhaustive set of matched LED.
• CB speaker mounted on drivers B pillar where my head likes to hit it, CB antenna mount rusted. Gonna just get rid of it.
• Lots of aftermarket USB-A ports need to be replaced with USB-C
• IPF Driving lights are barely brighter than the headlights. Check STEDI or Baja Designs for sales.
• Wanders more than I like, but may just need to get used to it. Look into tightening up the steering.
• Faint steering squeal seems to come from the steering wheel/column itself.

 

[landtank]

looks like it has caster correction bushings. they're good up to about 2" of lift. they don't stand up to wheeling very well either. that's most likely the wandering issue.

plenty of solutions for that.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

looks like it has caster correction bushings. they're good up to about 2" of lift. they don't stand up to wheeling very well either. that's most likely the wandering issue.

plenty of solutions for that.

Appreciate the input. I'll exercise the search button to understand it better, but certainly open to suggestions in the meantime.

 

[landtank]

measure the distance from the center of the front hub to the underside of the flare/fender and subtract 20.5. that will give you your ride height interms of lift over stock. from there you can search on solutions to your specific truck.

 

[LongDuck]

As to your steering column squeal, there's a rubber donut that's mounted to the firewall with 2×10mm bolts that holds a seal in place there. This time of year, when the temps drop, the rubber hardens up and can squeak and squeal when you turn the steering wheel. It's when it STOPS making noise that you now have a hole by your feet because the rubber donut failed and fell out.

I first noticed mine when looking into the DS footwell with the hood up, and I saw daylight beneath the truck...

Quick fix, and written up here many times. Silicone lube might get you through the winter, too.

ETA: You should really monitor your mileage for a few tanks to see what you're getting. With your build, I'd expect about 12-13mpg corrected for tire size. Any more or less is an indicator of things to look at. Use a consistent method, drive it until the light comes on (*5gal remaining), fill it completely full, then divide Miles driven by Gal pumped). Light should come on somewhere around 260-290 miles on the ODO, but don't chance it if you've not proven the fuel warning light, yet! You have a 25.4gal usable tank...

 

[Somebodyelse5]

It looks like it's never leaked oil, are you sure there's any in it

Appreciate the input. I'll exercise the search button to understand it better, but certainly open to suggestions in the meantime.

I put this together, it may not be perfect but I think it's close enough to be dangerous:

I also have the lighting list but it may not apply to a 94? It's based on my 97. Diode Dynamics has 3000k LEDs for the interior, I can't stand the cool/blue ish LED's as interior lights.

For headlights, I have really like my Diode Dynamics SL1's. You can get them for the high and low beams, they fit you just need to trim a tiny bit off of the mounting ring on the back of the headlight (3 JIS head screws, real easy)


Oh and X2 check your nuts. 71 ft lbs

 

[landtank]

that's a nice chart for caster. One correction, my 4.0 caster plates are 7 degrees and the range is 3.5-4.5.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

that's a nice chart for caster. One correction, my 4.0 caster plates are 7 degrees and the range is 3.5-4.5.

Awesome, i’ll get it updated

 

[TheGrrrrr]

‘Tis the Season and whatnot…

 

[LongDuck]

Be careful with putting too much in front of the radiator - next thing you know, you'll need a new head gasket! (*kidding, as it's an 80 thing to worry about head gaskets...!)

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Ok, so I've read and re-read this entire thread and I'm more confused than before: Compiled 80 series suspension component spec thread... shocks, coils & more. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/compiled-80-series-suspension-component-spec-thread-shocks-coils-more.1026595/page-28

My intention is to tighten up the road manners/get the geometry right and move to 37s.

Current setup:

4.88 Gears
1 - OME 2850J Front Coil Springs (Pair)
2 - 60070L Front Nitrocharger Sport Shocks
1 - OME 2863 Rear Coil Springs (Pair)
2 - 60020 Rear Nitrocharger Sport Shocks
1 - OME CA77b Caster Bushings Delta 3L Radius Arms with new Bushings and Hardware are installed.
1 - OME SD24 Steering Damper
1 - Sway bar spacers (unknown origin) Delta Sway Bar Drop Brackets are installed.
1 - Delta Panhard Correction Bracket
1 - Set of Timbren AOR Bumpstops Front and Rear are installed.
No flares

So it sounds like I'll need either radius arms (Delta 3L?) or caster plates <--- (Delta 3L ordered) to match the lift and improve the dynamics before adding more stress from running a 37, as the OME bushings don't seem to be cutting it even with the 315 that are on it. I've ordered the Timbren AOR bump stops front and rear, but now it seems from the suspension thread that those may be too long? I think I'll also need extended brake lines, which is easy enough. <--- Already done. I'm planning to run a Method 305 with 4.75" BS and a 1.25" spacer which I think is correct. <---Completely up in the air as of this edit.

Am I missing anything? Do I need to take a different approach to the bumpstops? Is that the right spacer size for the wheel? Is there an element here that I'm missing completely? To what extent will getting this right improve the wandering/steering wheel play? Should I also be looking at adjusting the screw in the steering box or is that super dicey? Are DC driveshafts in my future?

Wandering issues largely solved. Steering wheel needs centered and probably an eventual steering box rebuild will be helpful. Probably going to wait on the 37s until I can build the budget back up and do the steering at the same time. DONE

These are the things I'm pondering, beating the s*** out of the search button for and generally trying to reach the aha moment around.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Confusion precedes learning!

Magic formula:
Shoot for a 3" lift, 37's, longer shocks (see below), Delta 3L arms, Delta panhard bracket, 2" bump stop drop, sway bar drop, extended brake lines, and a DC shaft. You'll still rub a little at full bump, and you may rub turning with your spacing (I don't but I am centered) but otherwise you should be happy.

You are heavier than me, but I am running the Dobinson C59-612V and C59-613V and am sitting at 3"

You need the DC shaft once you get your caster in spec, it force the pinion down and increases the angle on the U Joint.

Some shock lengths for reference. I am running the OME, but i'd like to swap over to the Dobs

And springs to match:

 

[baldilocks]

New springs were not mentioned on your list ideas. You can run 37’s on the springs you have. I have been running 37’s with more like 5” lift and delta 6” arms. This nets over 5* positive castor.

Delta arms bring in a lot of castor correction per whatever lift they are spec’d for. In my case, because I have less than 6” lift but run 6” arms, my front pinion is a bit too low to run the DC shaft smoothly above 40-45 but that’s ok because I was already part time prior to installing delta arms. My point is that once you go above three inches of lift, it becomes more difficult to dial in ample castor without the pinion ending up lower than it should be to run a DC shaft smoothly at higher speeds and that get frustrating because the stock shaft runs even worse and then what? I prefer a good bit more castor angle on a lifted, big tired rig so part time was my answer so that pinion angle isn’t so much of a head banging concern.

Why not just buy wheels with 3.5” back space or “the correct back space” on the width wheel you run in order to skip the spacers? I ran 1” spacers on stock wheels with 37’s for a few years and that worked out well but the spacers create one more point of maintenance as they must be kept properly torqued. I now run an 17x8.5 with 3.5 BS which ends up negative 25mm offset.

How will you use this rig mainly? What additional things do you plan to add on that will create constant weight? These need to be known before choosing a spring. Yes, that suspension thread blossomed into a daunting mountain of info for anyone to get through, and once you do, your brain is toast. I do my own experimenting on many things and springs were and will continue to be one of those things as I glean only general info on the subject from the internet. Experimenting can be more costly but you will eventually arrive.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Why not just buy wheels with 3.5” back space or “the correct back space” on the width wheel you run in order to skip the spacers? I ran 1” spacers on stock wheels with 37’s for a few years and that worked out well but the spacers create one more point of maintenance as they must be kept properly torqued. I now run an 17x8.5 with 3.5 BS which ends up negative 25mm offset.

I agree... it's another thing to deal with, I try to avoid them simply because I'm lazy. Seems like the closer you get to a centered tire the better. I'm at 17x9 with 4.5" BS and rubbing is minimal.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

New springs were not mentioned on your list ideas. You can run 37’s on the springs you have. I have been running 37’s with more like 5” lift and delta 6” arms. This nets over 5* positive castor.

Yeah trying to stay with the shocks/springs I have for now, mostly because they only have 6,000ish miles on them and because I am shooting for the 3" or so lift with 37's approach vs the 5-6" of lift. I just ordered the Delta 3L because it seems that will be important for what I'm trying to do so long as I stay in the 3" lift approach.

Why not just buy wheels with 3.5” back space or “the correct back space” on the width wheel you run in order to skip the spacers? I ran 1” spacers on stock wheels with 37’s for a few years and that worked out well but the spacers create one more point of maintenance as they must be kept properly torqued. I now run an 17x8.5 with 3.5 BS which ends up negative 25mm offset.

I'm very open to finding a steelie with the 'correct' backspacing, but have generally been a fan of the Methods so was leaning that way. Not passionate about wheel options at all. Wheels and tires will ultimately be selected after I get all of the suspension and steering geometry right.

Delta arms bring in a lot of castor correction per whatever lift they are spec’d for. In my case, because I have less than 6” lift but run 6” arms, my front pinion is a bit too low to run the DC shaft smoothly above 40-45 but that’s ok because I was already part time prior to installing delta arms. My point is that once you go above three inches of lift, it becomes more difficult to dial in ample castor without the pinion ending up lower than it should be to run a DC shaft smoothly at higher speeds and that get frustrating because the stock shaft runs even worse and then what? I prefer a good bit more castor angle on a lifted, big tired rig so part time was my answer so that pinion angle isn’t so much of a head banging concern.

This is the part where I'm still not up to speed enough to comment. With a 3" lift and the 3L radius arms, I'm hoping I'm putting myself in a position to have a fairly straight forward choice to make on Drive shaft. I do generally like the idea of going to part-time as well, but haven't done enough research to see what the downsides are to that.

How will you use this rig mainly? What additional things do you plan to add on that will create constant weight? These need to be known before choosing a spring. Yes, that suspension thread blossomed into a daunting mountain of info for anyone to get through, and once you do, your brain is toast. I do my own experimenting on many things and springs were and will continue to be one of those things as I glean only general info on the subject from the internet. Experimenting can be more costly but you will eventually arrive.

Use is mainly trails and the occasional around town trips. My 200 is my daily and I could see keeping some short trip miles off the 200 by using the 80 instead. Basically I see the 80 as a Moab 'do-everything' vehicle, whereas the 200 would be my go-to for Ouray and longer trip/camping duties. The only weight changes I'm likely to make would be some skids. Need to get the truck weighed as is. Definitely think I'm over-sprung in the rear with the truck empty as it is now. Hate the stinkbug look.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

3L arms + 3” lift = DC drive shaft

I just ordered mine from tom woods, text me and i’ll send you the invoice with the deets