TheGrrrrr's 1994 80 Series Build Thread - "The Notorious B.G.E." (4 Viewers)

[baldilocks]

Nope. It was factory

Mine rubbed but not heavily with oem wheels and 37’s. You may be giving up some turning radius.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Mine rubbed but not heavily with oem wheels and 37’s. You may be giving up some turning radius.

i'll double check my knuckle stops and report back... I'd be surprised if the are real far out...

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Well it’s not all rainbows and lollipops I guess. Checked my nuts.

 

[mudgudgeon]

You mean a 8” wide w/ 4.5 BS will require a spacer, right? 4.5 BS on a 9” wide wheel is centered.

4.5" back space is 4.5" back space, whether the wheel is 6" or 10" wide.
Its a measurement from the wheel mounting surface (the hub) to the inner wheel rim. So, yes 4.5" back space on a 9" wheel is centred, but the inner edge of the rim is in the same place as it is for a 6" rim with 4.5" back space

Less back space puts the outer corners of the tire further out from the steering knuckke pivot point ( trunion bearings) this means that the edges of the tire travel on a wider arc. From full lock to full lock, the outer edge of the tire travels a greater physical distance. This is the scrub radius. With a bigger scrub radius, you'll get more rubbing on the front and back edges of fenders, and floor pan and inner fenders.
This is why spacers can cause a wheel/tire combo to rub in places it wouldn't without a spacer

 

[mudgudgeon]

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Work getting done this week:

Mileage: 382,470 on chassis; ~6,500? on engine

• Steering shaft firewall seal thingy replaced
• Knuckle rebuild with new spindle, bearings and knuckle studs
• Brake lines: Axle to caliper were short for some reason - replacing with OEM for now
• Install video rearview mirror (Wolfbox 850); mount & wire rear camera
• Install Delta 3L Radius arms, sway bar drop kit and rear spring retainer brackets
• Upgrade headlight bulbs; Philips 9006 Vision & SYLVANIA - 9005 SilverStar
• Replaced dim IPF driving lights with some Amazon specials until a permanent option can be chosen.
• Swap incorrect Lexus grill for correct Toyota grill

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Work getting done this week:

Mileage: 382,470 on chassis; ~6,500? on engine

• Steering shaft firewall seal thingy replaced
• Knuckle rebuild with new spindle, bearings and knuckle studs
• Brake lines: Axle to caliper were short for some reason - replacing with OEM for now
• Install video rearview mirror (Wolfbox 850); mount & wire rear camera
• Install Delta 3L Radius arms, sway bar drop kit and rear spring retainer brackets
• Upgrade headlight bulbs; Philips 9006 Vision & SYLVANIA - 9005 SilverStar
• Replaced dim IPF driving lights with some Amazon specials until a permanent option can be chosen.
• Swap incorrect Lexus grill for correct Toyota grill

Fyi you can get OEM extended lines

 

[sjpitts]

Hey, I was just at Scott's shop and saw your 80 up in the air. It looks very nice.

I told Scott that since he had just about convinced me to go from 285's to 315's that I have been watching for the inevitable garage sale of parts that will happen when you move on to 37s.

Jared

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Radius arms, sway bar drops, rear spring retainers, brake lines and video rearview mirror all installed this week. Drives much better. Removed the roof rack and awning. May do a Prinsu in the future maybe leave it bald. So far I think I'm getting a bit over 12mpg over all. 11.6mpg uncorrected for tire size. Tires are 315/75r16.

Current state:

 

[TheGrrrrr]

A few updates (383,322 miles; 6,800 on engine rebuild):

Chasing a weird, occasional long crank/no start or start and die then run fine for a few days. Replaced fuel pump, coil and igniter. Fuel pressure regulator, relay etc had all been recently replaced by PO. Runs better than ever but still the occasional long crank, though much less frequent.

Last night had very brief power loss coming out of the Cruiser Club meetup, which has me thinking the VAF is probably ready for a rebuild after 384,000 miles. Just ordered two off ebay. One is a Chinese one which I have thoughts about I'll explain below. One is supposedly a remanufactured OEM one. I bought both because I don't fully trust the Chinese one to run well, but I think it will at least run well enough in a pinch. I know there have been a few people post up here that they are crap, but haven't heard anyone say they outright left them stranded. I also don't trust that the remanufactured one is actually an OEM, so I guess we will see. Hopefully one of them works well enough to have my factory one sent off for a rebuild. I bought 2 year warranty's on them for $20 so if I have any trouble its taken care of.

Additionally I'm still chasing the CEL that has been present since I bought the truck. Its a simultaneous code 25 and 26 (lean and rich). The O2 sensors had already been replaced in an effort to resolve the code before I bought the truck. I'm wondering if VAF can cause a 25/26? Anyway, when I replaced the fuel pump, igniter and coil the CEL became less frequent and stays on for shorter periods of time. Interestingly though there is no obvious pattern to what conditions are present when it turns on. I recently spent 8 hours driving nonstop including 5 hours on a trail and it never came on once, but the next day it came on for 10 minutes twice in an hour of running errands.

Incidentally I also had a tie rod end failing and decided to replace both the drag link and tie rod tubes and ends with new OEM. Steering wheel was way off center and even the new radius arms and knuckle rebuild didn't eliminate all of the wandering so I think the new tie rod and drag link (including ends) will help there.

Then I went outside and saw a spot on the driveway that turned out to be the steering gear leaking, so a new one with 105 upgrade is on its way from redhead. The entire steering system will be new as of next week. I did go ahead and order the ported one because it was in stock and who knows. Maybe I'll want some minimal hydro-assist in the future.

Along with all of that I'm still working towards 37s, but all this other stuff keeps getting in the way. Ironic that the cruiser with "EVERYTHING" already recently replaced is now truly going to have everything recently replaced because I can't think of anything else that hasn't been replaced by the PO or me.

Other minor updates: removed the DIY drawer system and roof rack. Roof rack is for sale. Currently tracing all of the auxiliary/accessory wiring to make sure it was done up to my standards and finding random interior trim pieces that need replaced or simply a full set of oem clips holding them in. Lots of really small things that when done right, make the rig feel newish and solid. Plus doing that stuff right cuts down on the rattles.

In spite of it all, I do love this truck. Its a hoot to drive and its like cheating on the trail.

Moral of the story: There is no such thing as a great deal on an 80 series 30 year old vehicle.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Moral of the story: There is no such thing as a great deal on an 80 series.

I think anything old that needs wrenching is a bad deal unless you enjoy the wrenching.

We all know i like working on mine more than I like driving mine

 

[sjpitts]

I think anything old that needs wrenching is a bad deal unless you enjoy the wrenching.

We all know i like working on mine more than I like driving mine

I have seen your work-- you can always come work on mine if you are bored and need something to do

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Some decisions have been made! Should have photo updates soon but this is looking like the 'under the truck' setup for the foreseeable future:

Suspension:

• Front Axle:
  • OME Nitro Charger 60070L Shocks at 15" Compressed and 26.26" Extended with OME 2850J Springs- Extended Height Coils - 3" lift (Old)
  • Delta Vehicle Systems 3L Radius Arms
  • Delta Vehicle Systems Sway Bar Drop Brackets
  • Timbren Active Offroad Bumpstops for 80 Series
• Rear Axle:
  • OME Nitrocharger 60071 Shocks at 15.24" Compressed and 26.5" Extended with OME 2863 Springs - Constant load - 440 lbs.-GVW - 2" of lift (Old)
  • Delta Vehicle Systems Rear Spring Retainers
  • Delta Vehicle Systems Panhard Correction Bracket (Old)
  • Timbren Active Offroad Bumpstops for 80 Series

Steering:

• Redhead Steering Box with Upgraded 105 Sector Shaft/Pitman Arm and ported for Hydro-Assist
• Upgraded 105 Pitman Arm
• New Trail Gear Heavy Duty Tie Rod Tube and 555 Tie Rod Ends
• New Trail Gear Heavy Duty Drag Link Tube and 555 Ends
• ARP Steering Arm Knuckle Studs
• Hydro-Assist (Just kidding, not yet)

Brakes:

• Not sure what is on there. but possibly OEM. Not great. Open to Suggestion. I have Powerstop Z36 on my 200 Series and like them.

Wheels:

• Method 305 NV Titanium - 17x8.5 at 4.75" BS and 0 Offset
• Apex RPV Valve Stems
• Spacers: Spidertrax 1.5"

Tires

• 37x12.5x17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T in Load Range D2

Lift Characteristics:

• 3.5" Actual

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Dropped the truck at Higgy's for its steering repair/upgrade and while I was chatting with Davonte, he says "I found some photos from the engine rebuild on that thing" which confirmed the date and the timing of a few other modifications. So cool having a few photos of the work in progress.

So lets hop in the time machine and go all the way back to August of 2021 when the truck had approx. 378,000 miles... which means the rebuild only has less than 6,000 miles on it. Possibly less than 5,000 but probably somewhere inbetween. Post #1 spreadsheet has been updated with a parts timeline that reflect additional information I've tracked down in addition to what I learned today.

Old Engine:

New Engine:

A little closer:

 

[ajax1]

For your tie rod and drag link, I would upgrade to slees if you are gonna run 37s for sure. I bent both stock ones on 315s in Moab.

 

[baldilocks]

I like the looks of the bedliner paint job. I did Monstaliner on my last 80 in white. My new build is green and I’d like it to look like yours. The texture appears to be rather smooth.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

I like the looks of the bedliner paint job. I did Monstaliner on my last 80 in white. My new build is green and I’d like it to look like yours. The texture appears to be rather smooth.

Thanks. I like it too. It was hard to get over the notion that it will make it harder to sell down the road, if that time ever comes. Generally though I like the look, but probably wouldn't be able to pull the trigger on it myself, so buying it that way was a bit easier. Certainly couldn't do the work myself. I definitely don't worry about desert pinstriping with this. According to the PO receipts its U-POL Raptor Liner. Part numbers are in the Parts timeline tab of the spreadsheet in Post #1.

 

[baldilocks]

I don’t think that there nice bedliner job will make it harder to sell. Folks that actually use 80’s off road and own them for that reason specifically would appreciate it. I’ll even look into having mine Linex’d when the time comes. Depends on their color offerings. That stuff is near indestructible.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

There were 4 dudes at the tire shop working on my truck today. They were more excited about the new wheels and rubber than I was.

No rubbing on the street at full lock forward or reverse.

Gotta admit I'm a fan. Thanks to a lot of folks for helping decide where to land on this journey. Specifically, @Cruiserhiggs @Somebodyelse5 @baldilocks @GW Nugget @JunkCrzr89 @landtank @rmgarage @mudgudgeon for their input, active or passive, into the setup for the 37s. Love the way the truck came out. Also let me tell you... replacing all the steering linkages and installing a rebuilt upgraded steering box all at once is like getting a brand new showroom vehicle steering feel. Its tight AF.

Before:

After:

They even crammed all 5 of the 35s in the back:

On a related note. I have a full set of 5... 315/75/16s on Lexus Wheels for sale. They are 2019 date code but nearly all the tread left. Make an offer.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Looks good!

I see 37s in my future!