TheGrrrrr's 1994 80 Series Build Thread - "The Notorious B.G.E." (5 Viewers)

[TheGrrrrr]

Absolutely loving the 37s and the accurate speedo.

One quick question for the peanut gallery. Being new to the 80 series I didn't even notice until two days ago that my truck has no rear sway bar. It drives fine. I don't notice any excessive body roll around town or on the highway. Is this something I should solve for or just run it as is? Doing some searching, it doesn't seem like something people delete, and instead it seems a lot of folks upgrade it. Thats the main reason I ask.

This is a photo from a few days after I bought it. Now its on 37s with 1.5" spidertrax spacers and timbren bumpstops, if that matters.

 

[baldilocks]

Absolutely loving the 37s and the accurate speedo.

One quick question for the peanut gallery. Being new to the 80 series I didn't even notice until two days ago that my truck has no rear sway bar. It drives fine. I don't notice any excessive body roll around town or on the highway. Is this something I should solve for or just run it as is? Doing some searching, it doesn't seem like something people delete, and instead it seems a lot of folks upgrade it. Thats the main reason I ask.

This a photo from a few day after I bought it. Now its on 37s with 1.5" spidertrax spacers and timbren bumpstops, if that matters.
View attachment 3549467

There have been a few, but very few here, who say “it drives fine with no sway bars” or “I can’t tell the difference before and after removal”. I call BS because I tried a weekend trip to the Sierras sans sway bars several rears ago and it was nerve racking. Virtually every coil sprung axle coming out of a factory has an anti-sway bar incorporated. If your rig doesn’t feel unstable, the front bar must still be installed.

Purpose built rock race trucks have anti-sway bars because they aid in keeping the chassis flat while the axles articulate. The most modified 80 suspensions here on mud are running the Currie Anti-Rock style bars in the rear and a couple, maybe a few, guys have figured out how to fit one in the front as well. They help on road and off road.

I run an Anti-Rock in the rear and no bar up front most of the time and drive in a way that accounts for the additional body sway. If the time comes to fit my roof rack and load it for a road trip, I put that front bar back on. There is a reason so many guys upgrade bars and/or go to the trouble of adapting the Anti-Rock style bars and so few run no sway bars.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

There have been a few, but very few here, who say “it drives fine with no sway bars” or “I can’t tell the difference before and after removal”. I call BS because I tried a weekend trip to the Sierras sans sway bars several rears ago and it was nerve racking. Virtually every coil sprung axle coming out of a factory has an anti-sway bar incorporated. If your rig doesn’t feel unstable, the front bar must still be installed.

Purpose built rock race trucks have anti-sway bars because they aid in keeping the chassis flat while the axles articulate. The most modified 80 suspensions here on mud are running the Currie Anti-Rock style bars in the rear and a couple, maybe a few, guys have figured out how to fit one in the front as well. They help on road and off road.

I run an Anti-Rock in the rear and no bar up front most of the time and drive in a way that accounts for the additional body sway. If the time comes to fit my roof rack and load it for a road trip, I put that front bar back on. There is a reason so many guys upgrade bars and/or go to the trouble of adapting the Anti-Rock style bars and so few run no sway bars.

Yeah, front sway bar is still there. Sounds like I should be looking into options for replacing the rear sway bar. Even the mounts are gone, so I'll be starting over from scratch in the rear.

 

[tbisaacs]

Yeah, front sway bar is still there. Sounds like I should be looking into options for replacing the rear sway bar. Even the mounts are gone, so I'll be starting over from scratch in the rear.

Perfect reason to go with an anti-rock then!

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Perfect reason to go with an anti-rock then!

I'll probably just try to find an OEM sway bar and the @LandCruiserPhil links. Hopefully @Cruiserhiggs has a sway bar laying around somewhere, if not, I know @baldilocks has one. The OEM is still available new from Toyota for $183, so if all else fails I can still do that.

 

[OffRoadScott]

There were 4 dudes at the tire shop working on my truck today. They were more excited about the new wheels and rubber than I was.

No rubbing on the street at full lock forward or reverse.

Gotta admit I'm a fan. Thanks to a lot of folks for helping decide where to land on this journey. Specifically, @Cruiserhiggs @Somebodyelse5 @baldilocks @GW Nugget @JunkCrzr89 @landtank @rmgarage @mudgudgeon for their input, active or passive, into the setup for the 37s. Love the way the truck came out. Also let me tell you... replacing all the steering linkages and installing a rebuilt upgraded steering box all at once is like getting a brand new showroom vehicle steering feel. Its tight AF.

Before:
View attachment 3547297

After:
View attachment 3547298


View attachment 3547299

View attachment 3547300

View attachment 3547301

View attachment 3547302


View attachment 3547309

They even crammed all 5 of the 35s in the back:
View attachment 3547303

On a related note. I have a full set of 5... 315/75/16s on Lexus Wheels for sale. They are 2019 date code but nearly all the tread left. Make an offer.

Sent you a PM regarding the tires.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I'll probably just try to find an OEM sway bar and the @LandCruiserPhil links. Hopefully @Cruiserhiggs has a sway bar laying around somewhere, if not, I know @baldilocks has one. The OEM is still available new from Toyota for $183, so if all else fails I can still do that.

Why not Whiteline HD? Still get full articulation and reduced body roll netting much better handling.

Rear Links in stock

 

[baldilocks]

Why not Whiteline HD? Still get full articulation and reduced body roll netting much better handling.

Rear Links in stock

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

AntiRock - $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Whiteline - $$

Fixed it

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Why not Whiteline HD? Still get full articulation and reduced body roll netting much better handling.

Rear Links in stock

Looked at all the options and decided to order the Whiteline HD. Thanks @2KCruiser! Also @LandCruiserPhil you will have an order for rear links coming your way very soon. I still haven't installed the front sway bar disconnect because the bracket and Timbren AOR bumps don't play nice together. Feel free to come by and provide some field instruction. After my first CSC meeting in November of 2019, you provided me with a lot of great instruction on organizing a ROTM and I have been putting that to use for 3 years now.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Fixed it

Yah gotta pay to play

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Anything I’m missing in terms of spares?

 

[baldilocks]

Anything I’m missing in terms of spares?

View attachment 3558984

I’m into spatula’s as well. Looks like you are covered. I replaced all these type parts that could strand an 80 then carried the old ones as spares but these parts aren’t really what we could consider undependable.

The Whiteline sway bar will keep sway away but it’s still down low. I bent one stock bar and ended up hacking the next one off while on the trail because the driver side link broke and the bar end got caught on an immovable rock and twisted rearward jamming into the earth so hard that cutting it was the only solution. Yeah, you can buy HD links but the bar still takes a beating plus those flimsy U-clamps that hold it to the bottom of the axle get deformed and there goes the bushings. Or are you building this 80 for frequent trips to Macy’s? Then none of what I posted here matters.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

I’m into spatula’s as well. Looks like you are covered. I replaced all these type parts that could strand an 80 then carried the old ones as spares but these parts aren’t really what we could consider in dependable.

The Whiteline sway bar will keep sway away but it’s still down low. I bent one stock bar and ended up hacking the next one off while on the trail because the driver side link broke and the bar end got caught on an immovable rock and twisted rearward jamming into the earth so hard that cutting it was the only solution. Yeah, you can buy HD links but the bar still takes a beating plus those flimsy U-clamps that hold it to the bottom of the axle get deformed and there goes the bushings. Or are you building this 80 for frequent trips to Macy’s? Then none of what I posted here matters.

I guess I distinguish between things I broke and things that failed. I’ll carry spares of either, but mostly focus on things that fail. When it comes to things I broke, mostly just known weak points. On my 200 I carried a CV on wheeling trips because I have a front locker. Generally my approach to my rigs is “used, but not abused”. I try to take good care of them and don’t tend to try and break them.

I did park near the mall the other day though, but it was a gravel lot, so it doesn’t count.

 

[sjpitts]

Anything I’m missing in terms of spares?

View attachment 3558984

Matt

How did you decide on these items? I guess I have seen several threads talking about what spares people carry, but I am curious how you came up with your list.

Jared

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Matt

How did you decide on these items? I guess I have seen several threads talking about what spares people carry, but I am curious how you came up with your list.

Jared

Was going through various fuel and ignition system threads and making note of various parts, then looking around at the fuse boxes and making note of the various fuses and relays that were readily accessible/visible.

I also have all the various sizes of tube and hose clamps. I’m weird like that.

I’m also very aware that it’s all overkill. My simple minded thinking though is:

• I have a new engine.
• I have a new transfer case
• New starter, coil, igniter
• New fuel pump
• New O2 sensors
• New radiator
• New VAF
• New-ish alternator
• Newish water pump
• New battery
• All new hoses and vacuum lines

So it’d be a real kick to the balls if some fuse or relay that takes a week to track down is what stranded me 10 miles outside of Mexican Hat on my way to/from Moab.

Like I said. I’m weird like that.

The A442f takes a dump? We’ll have a wake. Just can’t handle getting beat by the little things.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Photo Credit: @mcgaskins

 

[baldilocks]

I’m Looking very hard at Higgy’s front bumper for my currently ongoing build. Never heard of Higgy’s until I saw their ad in a copy of Toyota Trails. It’s expensive but I like it. I’m surprised you aren’t running one of theirs rather than the ARB.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

I’m Loki t very hard at Higgy’s front bumper for my currently ongoing build. Never heard of Higgy’s until I saw their ad in a copy of Toyota Trails. It’s expensive but I like it. I’m surprised you aren’t running one of theirs rather than the ARB.

I was just at the shop this afternoon dropping off my 200, and the front bumpers were looking good.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Update:
Mileage - Chassis: 384,500 Engine ~7,000

Upgraded RedHead steering gear leaked so it was replaced. The upgraded steering links/ends combine with the upgraded steering box is the best driving upgrade I have made to any vehicle beside gears. Its so tight, tracks straight and just feels rock solid.

Removed the aftermarket padded cloth interior panels and spent hours working on removing velcro adhesive backing from plastic. May pick up a Delta gear shift console to replace. Need to see if it works with the Tuffy center console currently installed. Love the padded armrest on it and don't want to spend $800 on the Delta one that isn't padded.

Wheels and tires are doing great. Will need to massage a couple spots for full-flex rubbing and roll the inner fender well edge or move to 1" spacers. Only an issue at full-flex.

Took off dash cover to clean expecting the dash pad to be trash, but its pristine, I guess the cover was there to protect not cover up. Put the cover back to continue protecting but boy does it look nice naked.

Installed Whiteline HD rear sway bar and Phil's Sever Duty links. I don't actually notice much difference from adding the swaybar, but I I'll feel better on twisty mountain highways like I-17 and the Beeline in AZ.

I also put my 20lb PowerTank in the back of the 80 to speed up tire fills. The Apex valve stems dump from 35psi to 15psi in about 12 seconds, but my ARB twin was taking like 5 minutes per tire to get back to 35psi. PowerTank gets them back to 35psi in about 30-45 seconds each. I don't love CO2 as it seeps more than air over time, but these tires get dumped and filled too often to worry about that.

Finally, I bought and love the Badlands floor jack. Bonus: it fits perfectly between the driver seat and forward face of the drawers. Its almost like the floor pan was designed for the big rear tires on that floor jack to sit up against the front seat letting the jack body rest on the elevated part of the floor. Its wedged in there pretty secure and makes no noise. I guess thats one benefit of having no 2nd row.