Builds The Warthog v4.4 (3 Viewers)

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More progress ……. Transmission and T-Case are finished and ready to ship. Here are some pics.

I ALWAYS remove the 5th gear extension housing, replace the gasket and apply some anaerobic sealer. The H55F transmissions are notorious for leaking very slightly at that area so I go they this step to avoid that issue.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

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Half way done. Nolen and I decided to run a new long-spline input gear from Terrain Tamer to avoid premature spline wear and the dreaded “clunk”. We keep these gears in stock at all times, they’re offered for the early and late split cases; 32 and 34 tooth versions.
The bottom pic shows the difference between the stock gear and the long-spline version ( these used to be known as the “MacNamara Gear” and are now available from Terrain Tamer and Sumo Gear ).

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

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We also opted for new drive flanges. These are also from Sumo Gear; we keep them in stock in both bolt patterns for the split case as well as a multitude of other Tcase and Pinion flanges. They’re reasonably priced; about the same as a speedy sleeve.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
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Rear case half installed and Tcase buttoned up. I did not stake the output nuts in case Nolen and Cam decide to drill another bolt pattern into these flanges.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

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Last part of the job for us was to supply a bell housing, cross member and mount. We modified the BH to allow for needed clearance for the late model front bearing retainer. This is a simple job that can be done in 5 minutes or less with an angle grinder or high speed burr.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

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If anybody is considering rebuilding their own T-Case, we can help with parts and info.
Here's a link to a video we put together with @beno showing you how to rebuild a split case:



enjoy!

Georg
 
Yeah, well Georg rebuilt a tranny and tcase for me for my ‘63 FJ45, not for some cream puff Pig, about a year ago. So there.

I think I’ll get them installed this weekend. So there.

Georg gets the 2019 Pulitzer for tech. So there.

:p:p:p

Oh yeah, great build and thread. Here piggy piggy piggy.
 
Back on the East Coast...


I got the block on the stand and started prepping for assembly.

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Tossed in the crank...

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The crank polished up and was still within spec, so we were able to avoid the backed up crankshaft shop and keep this build on Nolen’s short timetable.

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I like to use the Hecho en Japan bearings...

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This is the early FJ60 motor, so the thrust bearing is built into the #3 main...

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If you web-wrench on here much, you know that it is a mortal sin to replace the rear main seal with the oil pan attached.

Fortunately, we can take advantage of the lack of oil pan & bearing cap and install now.

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We didn’t balance the crankshaft due to the time constraints and the bearings looking like it spun nice & true, but I did do a little balancing on the piston & rod assemblies.

Toyota pistons are usually within a gram or so of each other, and this set was no exception. The rods, however, had a pretty wide range of weights. There was a 16g spread amongst them.

I took a flap disc and took some material off the rod caps and knocked off the high spots on the casting of the heavy ones, and brought them down to match the lightest.

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With the threads protected so as not to scratch the journals, the pistons went in...

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Once in, I checked the deck clearance to verify our compression ratio calculations.

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When blocks are decked, is it typical that machining marks are made with a kind of cross-hatching? In other words, the tool cuts on both the front and rear side across the length of the block if the milling head is perfectly perpendicular to the axis of travel.
 

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