Builds The Warthog v4.4 (1 Viewer)

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Trying to keep up with the shiny stuff coming from @orangefj45...

Got the engine bolt-ons back from blasting & powdercoating.

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Part of making the snorkel functional means relocating the battery.

I am going to try this Rob MAC Performance PowerSurge for fuel delivery. More on that later. It just clears the hood in this perfect spot

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Also got a new AC Delco charcoal canister since my other one was original.

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Then I moved the stainless tray to the driver fender. I used M8 nutserts. The passenger side has a reinforced rib so I’m putting a support rod from the bottom corner of the tray to the frame S backup.

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I also got a pretty new blinker relay from @Racer65. I am also using all new stainless hardware from Metric Overland where I painted over bolts when able.

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I had to buy a LONG power cable to get to where the starter will be. I’m assuming this route will be OK.

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So all this because I’m stalling on pulling the fuel tank and the steering box. Both likely to be a PITA.
 
I picked up my flywheel and radiator from @USMC22. The machine shop made the nastiest flywheel ever look like a work of art.

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The radiator got boiled and tested.

I put off the inevitable fuel tank drop messing with the passenger side fender. Looks nice and clean.

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I jacked up the Warthog’s ass and dug in

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@orangefj45 said it best. FJ55s are ****ed to work on. Dropping this tank sucked.

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Next up is to clean up this mess so the new LRA tank can go in to a nice clean ass

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While the tank was out it was the best time to clean up the underside and seal up all the holes.

I scrubbed it and blew out as much dirt as possible and laid down a couple of coats of rust Converter last night.

This afternoon I sealed up all the holes with seam sealer and then coated it all with a couple of coats of rattle can bedliner.

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Sadly y’all have to hear from me again and not the masters of tech @FJ60Cam and @orangefj45 ......

I switched ends today and went back at the engine bay.

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I got the PowerSurge return plumned into the stock return.

I wired and loomed. Got everything working.

The engine bay is ready to eat.



I also spoke to @Rainman about making me some 10mm/NPT lines to get my line lock plumbed.
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I have a longer front soft brake line on deck as well. The OME lift made the softline way too short. I did the @Texican mod and just unbolted the hard line mount from the frame earlier

Everything so far is working. My Blinkers were weak before so I added ground jumpers from the inside metal of the lights and they are super strong now.

Long day. Lots of small stuff done.

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In other news...

The replacement camshaft showed up this week, in one piece. It was packed way better this time.

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Everything is back from the machine shop. Here’s a sneak peak at the fancy new big valves. It’s a shame they’ll be hidden away, out of sight.

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And, of course, the plugged oil galley hole...

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Finally, the block & head have taken a ride through the paint booth. Assembly is this week.

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I spent the day wire wheeling, scraping pressure washing and painting anything and everything that I’ve been piling up.

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So much paint.

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I even got up in the back of the hood area

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Finally got the frame painted and the axle cleaned up as well.

Off to s***ty Orlando for work for a week. It’s ready for the drivetrain to go in when it all arrives.

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I’m no fan of textured finishes but just the hand slap on metal test from before the coating to after the coating is very impressive.

This stuff soaks up paint though to cover it and all the small valleys. Plan on extra paint.

How rugged is Lizard Skin? I too don't like textured finishes, but I've been exploring ways to "hide" it. Could it be applied to the underside of a bed, then coated in bedliner? My understanding is that it's a latex based paint so I worry about the adhesion to other, more typical enamels/eurethanes/epoxies one might top coat it with. I wouldn't be opposed to it on the firewall and on the underside of the tub, but I've wondered if it could hold up to the abuse of dust, dirt, and road debris. Every application I've ever seen is inside a cab/tub, then covered with upholstery. That's clearly not an option on an FJ40, and I'd like to keep the "textured" look out of the cab if I can help it.

I've also tossed around the idea of sound deadening materials under rubber mats, but I'm always a bit leery of permanently adhering anything to the tub for fear that it will trap moisture and rust will start growing underneath it.

Lizard skin, on the underside of the tub and the firewall, (and maybe under the headliner in the hard top) might be the ticket if it would hold up.

Then I spent a stupid amount of time cleaning up my intake manifold.

Then another stupid amount of time cleaning up the accessory brackets.

Whupped.

Can't tell you how many stupid amounts of time I've spent cleaning up chassis/under-carriage components and manifolds. Even coated my exhaust manifolds in "cast blast" high temp paint - they're already rusting through 1000 miles later. Seems like every winter I wind up with a pile of cleaned parts waiting for the cold to break so I can get a hot enough day to start laying down paint.
 
How rugged is Lizard Skin? I too don't like textured finishes, but I've been exploring ways to "hide" it. Could it be applied to the underside of a bed, then coated in bedliner? My understanding is that it's a latex based paint so I worry about the adhesion to other, more typical enamels/eurethanes/epoxies one might top coat it with. I wouldn't be opposed to it on the firewall and on the underside of the tub, but I've wondered if it could hold up to the abuse of dust, dirt, and road debris. Every application I've ever seen is inside a cab/tub, then covered with upholstery. That's clearly not an option on an FJ40, and I'd like to keep the "textured" look out of the cab if I can help it.

I've also tossed around the idea of sound deadening materials under rubber mats, but I'm always a bit leery of permanently adhering anything to the tub for fear that it will trap moisture and rust will start growing underneath it.

Lizard skin, on the underside of the tub and the firewall, (and maybe under the headliner in the hard top) might be the ticket if it would hold up.



Can't tell you how many stupid amounts of time I've spent cleaning up chassis/under-carriage components and manifolds. Even coated my exhaust manifolds in "cast blast" high temp paint - they're already rusting through 1000 miles later. Seems like every winter I wind up with a pile of cleaned parts waiting for the cold to break so I can get a hot enough day to start laying down paint.

I wish I could answer all of your questions on this with experience but i will have to go on opinion here.

I would be comfortable applying Lizard Skin on the underside of a vehicle for sure. I think it’s main limitation is where it would see heavy use like tossing tools in a bed. It’s rubberized so it would stretch if you drug a heavy metal object across it.

As for exhaust the only thing I’ve ever been happy with is a quality ceramic coating. All the sprays I’ve used end up peeling off with time.

My 40 is so hot inside I’m likely going to spray Lizard Skin where I can under it with the drivetrain in.
 
More shiny bling...

This alternator started out as rough as the Warthog, but after new brushes, bearings, and a thorough turd polishing, it’s ready to ‘power’ this beast...

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Shameless plug... FJ40 & FJ60 Alternator Restorations
 
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Year of the Pig!
 

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