Builds The Warthog - 1977/73 combo (3 Viewers)

[wngrog]

Also I had an alternator squeal and realized the lower fixed mount was loose.

I tightened it up and drove it some and I smelled rubber burning.

When it was tight my alternator pully was at an angle and was burning the belt.

I removed it all and shimmed everything up and got it lined up.

I could not figure out how this could happen until I noticed my alternator says Honda on it not Denso or Toyota.

What the hell?

So. The belt I’ve been running is too narrow too but I found a good used one in my stash that fits perfectly.

 

[RUSH55]

Mitsubishi belt running a Honda alternator on a Toyota engine. That’ll be one to explain to the parts guy at NAPA!

“Automatic or manual transmission?”


Are you gonna put any of that mat on your firewall?

 

[wngrog]

Are you gonna put any of that mat on your firewall?

I’ve got the OEM pad on the center and the rest is still on the parts pig still. I’ll likeky just put the pad up there. I like the stock look.

I’m only adding this stuff because it will be covered up. Mine has no headliner so it will always be a tin can on wheels.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Mitsubishi belt running a Honda alternator on a Toyota engine. That’ll be one to explain to the parts guy at NAPA!

My old 40 was like that, whatever you could find at the junkyard that looked like it might work.

 

[RUSH55]

I’m one to talk, still that way for me. Gotta keep good records just to remember!

 

[wngrog]

It looks Nippo to me. As hard as these are to find now it would be really cool if it was from a Honda.

 

[bobm]

s are supposed to Squeal .

 

[wngrog]

I finished the Noico install.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BKKZ1AM?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

It took one box. I almost got the entire floor done with it. The cargo area is spotty but it’s fine.

3 layers now. Noico. Factory mat. Cheapo rubber mats. Done

Did under the front bench. Under the rear footwell and under the bench.

This is how much was left for the cargo area (pieces are just sitting there)

I’ll drive it tomorrow and see if I can tell any difference.

 

[RUSH55]

Must have bought it all up - Amazon is out of it!

 

[wngrog]

Dang. Maybe it will come back soon. It’s real easy. I just drove it about 40 miles. It’s hard to tell if it is quieter but the floor everywhere around the hump was ambient temp. That’s good.

Also got the rear window wiper cured last night. I used weatherstrip glue. It’s awesome.

 

[wngrog]

Test drive and boat haul went well.

 

[wngrog]

Worked on the City Racer carb a bit today trying to get rid of a stumble I’ve had at cruise speed and some Rich fuel smell from the exhaust

@under_psi and @Dustin Messina came up. Lou bought his vacuum gauge and bad ass timing light.

We all read this thread 29 times and it still means nothing to any of us.

Carb Works Great!

My timing was advanced. 13* v 7*

No vacuum leaks.

I had my idle screws goofed and I fixed them

Basically it was frustrating. We got rid of the stumble but retarding the timing made it feel sluggish. Runs fine. Got it up to 75. Smoothly.

All that idling made us all 1/2 sick. Fumes are still present as is oil smoke when it idles that long. Most of the smoke cleared after the drive.

Bottom line. Carbs are not my thing. Frustrating.

Never could get the vacuum to waver much messing with the fuel mix. It’s steady at 14 psi. Looking at that thread it seems like it should be 20 psi at sea level. No idea how to adjust it.

Thanks for the help. I have a super secret hybrid carb on order from @FJ40Jim so maybe in a few months this will all be moot.

 

[RUSH55]

Not familiar with a “City Racer” carb. Wot’s that?

 

[G-Cat]

Land Cruiser 40 and 55 Series

City Racer Link ^^^

 

[RUSH55]

Are you still running a points diz?
My method for tune-up back when was to get the points set first using a dwell meter, then set timing, then air/fuel mixture, then idle. If any of those are off it will affect your idle.

 

[wngrog]

This thing cranks without effort. One pump. Any weather.

Idles at 450 when were tuning.

Truck will easily pull 80 mph.

Just had a studder at 55 and tiny amount of throttle.

That’s gone.

Now it still smells Rich.

Yeah. Points. Didn’t think about those. May get a DUI for this thing and lose those.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Late to the party here. Just spent 90 minutes ripping thru this thread, whew.

Test the vacuum advance can on the dissy. It should hold vacuum, and with the cap off you should see movement of the breaker plate when vac is applied.

Grab the rotor and twist it 10-15* in a a clockwise direction, that's the centrifugal advance. Let go of it, and the advance springs should return it to the original position.

Points are not a problem on the 75-77 ignition, because the points only provide an open or closed signal to the ignitor module, which does the heavy work of switching coil current off & on thousands of times a minute.

Carry on, then.

 

[wngrog]

Late to the party here. Just spent 90 minutes ripping thru this thread, whew.

Test the vacuum advance can on the dissy. It should hold vacuum, and with the cap off you should see movement of the breaker plate when vac is applied.

Grab the rotor and twist it 10-15* in a a clockwise direction, that's the centrifugal advance. Let go of it, and the advance springs should return it to the original position.

Points are not a problem on the 75-77 ignition, because the points only provide an open or closed signal to the ignitor module, which does the heavy work of switching coil current off & on thousands of times a minute.

Carry on, then.

Copy.

Just send me a super special carb that works and I’ll make sure the dizzy is correctamundo.

 

[wngrog]

Late to the party here. Just spent 90 minutes ripping thru this thread, whew.

Test the vacuum advance can on the dissy. It should hold vacuum, and with the cap off you should see movement of the breaker plate when vac is applied.

Grab the rotor and twist it 10-15* in a a clockwise direction, that's the centrifugal advance. Let go of it, and the advance springs should return it to the original position.

Points are not a problem on the 75-77 ignition, because the points only provide an open or closed signal to the ignitor module, which does the heavy work of switching coil current off & on thousands of times a minute.

Carry on, then.

Ok. I tested as told. All moves by hand and advance holds vacuum but I can’t figure out how to make the plate move via the advance. See videos

 

[FJ40Jim]

Excellent videos.
The first one shows perfect mechanical advance operation, and you are able to move the vac advance plate against the override spring, indicating the breaker plate is not stuck, i.e. the vac advance can move the plate if it works.

Second vid shows that the vac advance is holding vacuum, so the vac advancer is trying to pull, but the opposite end of the shaft is stuck from sitting.
To fix: Pull the dissy, pull off the vac advancer, unsticking the tip of the shaft in the process. Clean the brass bush in the dissy body, clean & grease the shaft, test vac advance function again. Reinstall.
Or send it away to be cleaned & recurved by an expert.