The Resurection of 'The Beast' (12 Viewers)

[Southeast Overland]

Thanks guys.

I'll hack off the exhaust behind the muffler and get it redone once I replace the tank. I only paid $210 out-the-door for a new exhaust w/ Flowmaster muffler from the front all the way out the rear. My old exhaust was pretty bad. Lucky me the exhaust shop is less than a mile from my house. I have to have the front redone anyways b/c it won't clear the OEM skid plate I picked up awhile back.

 

[Luke111]

Mine runs the same route , if you unbolt the hanger, can you pull it to the side to clear the tank.

 

[Carp]

I had a thought that this could also be contributing to your increased vapor problem. The exhaust is probably heating up the gas and maybe even evaporating the gas, beyond the point that the ventilation system can't keep up. Just a thought.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Mine runs the same route , if you unbolt the hanger, can you pull it to the side to clear the tank.

My hanger is welded on.

I had a thought that this could also be contributing to your increased vapor problem. The exhaust is probably heating up the gas and maybe even evaporating the gas, beyond the point that the ventilation system can't keep up. Just a thought.

Thought about that - but this mechanic didn't know if it was a big deal. I'm gonna redo my entire exhaust b/c I need to clearance a sock skid plate up front and redo the back portion. I'm glad the club has a bender!

 

[Southeast Overland]

I decided to take the day off and get some work done on the Pig.

I dropped the old gas tank - had broken off one bolt but I think when I put the new tank in I'm just going to run a 1 inch or less weld where the broken bolt was. It will be about an inch from the actual tank area and the tank will be empty at this point. Fixing broken bolts is the devil to me...I hate it.

I looked in the old tank and there was a few rust flakes in the bottom of the tank but not very much at all. I couldn't see anywhere on the inside of the tank that had been jeopardized (rusted, creased, etc) which could have been contributing debris to the fuel system and causing my stalling problem after I had been running at highway speed for a while.

I'm in the process now of scrubbing my frame, rear axle, rear springs and everything else back there so I can put a fresh coat of black paint down before I put a refurbed tank back in. I'm picking one up from Troll tomorrow - he thinks it is from a 77 so hopefully it will fit my 76 well. The hookups are pretty simple - fuel neck, fuel return, four lines on the driver's rear to fuel/vapor separator, and two lines on the passenger front running to the front of the Pig.

I went by Advance to pick up some fuel line and the guy there, I think he was a manager, said that Advance doesn't carry fuel lines anymore. He said they were too expensive and I have to go to a specialty hose place to pick them up now. Luckily there is one about 5 minutes away that I will hit tomorrow. Has anyone else experienced this?

I'm going to replace my fuel pump with a new Aisin pump that I'm ordering as soon as I finish this post. If that doesn't fix my stalling problem then I only know of two possible other causes - baaaaad vacuum leak somewhere or fuel boiling and/or leaking out of the carb. Whenever my Pig stalls on me I have hopped out several times and the fuel bowl on the carb is empty. I don't 'hear' any vacuum leaks anywhere and a Cruiser shop didn't tell me of any bad leaks - I didn't tell them to look for any either.

Had a bad problem with pressure building up in my tank and pushing out the filler neck. If replacing all the soft lines, new tank and new pump doesn't fix this problem then I don't know what the heck is causing it. I've blown all the lines out and they don't seem to be clogged...

 

[Southeast Overland]

Here are some pics for y'all.

Front radiator 'skid' (not really a skid but what do you call it?) painted and ready to be bolted into place.

New ornament

Breather for gas tank - did exit in A pillar body mount under driver's feet - this was the ONLY hard line that didn't have 100% free movement of air - air would move but not great - so JimC said to do this...

fuel filter at end of line pulled out for you to see...

fuel pump that is going to be replaced

old tank - surprisingly I didn't see much rust or damage inside - I was hoping the tank was full of rust and that was the cause of my stalling issues - either way the tank was beat to heck and back and had other issues and needed to come out

can you see how the bottom of the tank is all 'poofed' out?

I wire wheeled the rear frame, cross member, trac bar, axle, etc for several hours, here is what I stopped with. note exhaust hacked to allow removal of tank

another view of cleaned up frame. I'm going to etch, then prime and paint later this week.

I just placed an order for a new fuel pump and some other parts - hopefully they will be here soon!

 

[oldfj40]

Great job on the cruiser! It looks good.

Good luck getting the fuel issue resolved so you can drive it.

Nice redneck ornament.

 

[yooper]

I wonder if the tank was poofed out from overpressure.

 

[Trollhole]

I decided to take the day off and get some work done on the Pig.

I dropped the old gas tank - had broken off one bolt but I think when I put the new tank in I'm just going to run a 1 inch or less weld where the broken bolt was. It will be about an inch from the actual tank area and the tank will be empty at this point. Fixing broken bolts is the devil to me...I hate it.

Don't weld on the tank. Is it possible to cut the nut off and just weld a new one in it's place? That or drill it and tap a new bolt.

I looked in the old tank and there was a few rust flakes in the bottom of the tank but not very much at all. I couldn't see anywhere on the inside of the tank that had been jeopardized (rusted, creased, etc) which could have been contributing debris to the fuel system and causing my stalling problem after I had been running at highway speed for a while.

I don't think debris is your issue. Your tank is building pressure. Venting it will fix that issue

I'm in the process now of scrubbing my frame, rear axle, rear springs and everything else back there so I can put a fresh coat of black paint down before I put a refurbed tank back in. I'm picking one up from Troll tomorrow - he thinks it is from a 77 so hopefully it will fit my 76 well. The hookups are pretty simple - fuel neck, fuel return, four lines on the driver's rear to fuel/vapor separator, and two lines on the passenger front running to the front of the Pig.

I went by Advance to pick up some fuel line and the guy there, I think he was a manager, said that Advance doesn't carry fuel lines anymore. He said they were too expensive and I have to go to a specialty hose place to pick them up now. Luckily there is one about 5 minutes away that I will hit tomorrow. Has anyone else experienced this?

Go find another auto parts store. That is silly they said that. All auto parts stores have fuel line.

I'm going to replace my fuel pump with a new Aisin pump that I'm ordering as soon as I finish this post. If that doesn't fix my stalling problem then I only know of two possible other causes - baaaaad vacuum leak somewhere or fuel boiling and/or leaking out of the carb. Whenever my Pig stalls on me I have hopped out several times and the fuel bowl on the carb is empty. I don't 'hear' any vacuum leaks anywhere and a Cruiser shop didn't tell me of any bad leaks - I didn't tell them to look for any either.

Had a bad problem with pressure building up in my tank and pushing out the filler neck. If replacing all the soft lines, new tank and new pump doesn't fix this problem then I don't know what the heck is causing it. I've blown all the lines out and they don't seem to be clogged...

I wonder if the tank was poofed out from overpressure.

Might want to move the vented filter to a different location as that hole is where your fresh air vents are on your pig.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I picked up a tank from Marshall today - thanks! ...and dropped it off to be boiled and coated. Guy at the radiator shop said the tank looked pretty good so fixing it up shouldn't be a problem.

I'll move the filter/breather location in the engine bay somewhere...good call.

I'll also drill out the broken bolt and not weld the tank...

Napa had the fuel line I needed. I thought the "we don't carry fuel line and you have to go to a speciality store" line from Advance was a little fishy. The Napa is a whopping 1 block from Advance and the Advance guy tried to send me 10 minutes away to buy the line. Not so sure I'm going to go there again.

I'm going to pick my tank up next Monday and plan to have the frame, axle, springs etc painted by then. I still need to drill out that darn broken bolt and cut off some old exhaust hangers that will be in the way of my rear quarter panel sliders still to be installed.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Radiator 'skid' has been clear coated. Rear 1/3 of frame, rear axle, springs, etc have been primed. Also gathered a bunch of fuel line clasps to reassemble the fuel system.

Parts are on the way from California.

Tomorrow afternoon I hope to finish putting primer on the Pig's rear and get ready to paint Monday.

 

[PabloCruise]

Good luck! I just tuned in to your fuel system problems.

I would be tempted to try a new vent line off the fuel separator (maybe even out back window) before replacing fuel pump. A Toyota fuel pump is not cheap, and if you are having pressure issues in your tank you could be messing with the pump and/or float...

 

[Southeast Overland]

Good luck! I just tuned in to your fuel system problems.

I would be tempted to try a new vent line off the fuel separator (maybe even out back window) before replacing fuel pump. A Toyota fuel pump is not cheap, and if you are having pressure issues in your tank you could be messing with the pump and/or float...

The fuel/vapor separator is now out. The vent line from the engine compartment back to the tank blew clear but from the engine bay to the vent in the driver's A pillar body mount was a little restricted so I'm now venting to the engine bay.

A new Aisin fuel pump cost me a whopping $42 IIRC.

 

[PabloCruise]

A new Aisin fuel pump cost me a whopping $42 IIRC.

I thought they were closer to $100?

Let me know what you find out...

I think the one in my 40 is weak, it takes a long time to start if she has been sitting for a few days.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I thought they were closer to $100?

Let me know what you find out...

I think the one in my 40 is weak, it takes a long time to start if she has been sitting for a few days.

They are...

Check out ALL-FOREIGN CAR PARTS - Import & Domestic Car Parts, Import & Domestic Truck Parts, Brakes, Rotors, Distrubutors

I ordered a oil pump from them for my 2F rebuild - was brand new Aisin and a steal of a deal

ALL-FOREIGN CAR PARTS - Import & Domestic Car Parts, Import & Domestic Truck Parts, Brakes, Rotors, Distrubutors is the fuel pump. It is Kyosan - maybe the oil pump was too - either way it was good stuff and you can't beat the price. Advance wanted $70 for some crappy part.

All Foreign also does free shipping on orders of $59.99 or more.

 

[PabloCruise]

Very cool! My '78 shows one number off from yours: ALL-FOREIGN CAR PARTS - Import & Domestic Car Parts, Import & Domestic Truck Parts, Brakes, Rotors, Distrubutors

$44.34 vs. $156

 

[Southeast Overland]

Finished painting the rear of my frame, rear axle, springs, etc last night. Looks pretty good for a raddle can job.

Had to run an errand today into town so I picked up my gas tank. A radiator shop boiled and lined it for me. They were going to let me paint it but they did it and didn't charge any extra so I didn't complain. The owner of the shop likes for people to wait one week after their tank is lined to put gas in it. It was lined last Friday. I need to install it this Friday evening and fill her with gas so I can get the Pig running for my club's annual meeting on Saturday. That would be exactly one week of cure time for the liner. I'm one of those guys if I'm told one week I like to wait to just to be safe... any words of wisdom?

Nother question - I'm not going to have time to get my exhaust rerouted this weekend before I drive my Pig to my club's meeting (a must). Do I need a different type of wire for my MIG to weld up the exhaust where I had to hack it to drop the tank???

Tank lined, painted, and back from the radiator shop.

Rear frame, axle, springs, etc, wire wheeled, primed and painted.

 

[yooper]

different wire you mean? Different than what?

Probably not, exhaust is about the least persnickety welding job, just seal it up good.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Yup - I meant wire. I edited my post.

I didn't know since exhaust was a different type/coating/whatever of metal than the steel I've been working with for body repairs if I would need a different wire or not.

I'll give it a shot after I let the tank bake for the rest of the week in the yard.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I did a search (imagine that) and it appears I can weld the exhaust just like I do mild steel. The welds might rust but this exhaust is going to get hacked out in the next few weeks and replaced with the proper alignment.

For the new exhaust (in a few weeks) is there a different type of wire I can use to keep the weld from rusting?

Anybody have info on about letting the tank lining cure?