The Resurection of 'The Beast' (2 Viewers)

[Kaderabek]

None of this is good. It's very surprising to me also.

Time for diesel.

TJK

 

[Southeast Overland]

.40 wouldn't be enough and a 12 gauge would be too messy.....decisions decisions decisions...

Other options (that might be better)
Man-a-fre rebuilt 2f
$3495
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/2fengines.htm
Rebulit - cost - shipping?

SOR serviced 2f
$2100
http://www.sor.com/sor/cat035.tam?xax=16741
Serviced - cost - shipping?

ULC rebuild of current 2f
$2575
http://www.urbanlandcruisers.com/products/engine.html
doesn't look like they do anything to the lower for this price...turnaround?

JB Weld
$ = < 10
will it hold?

Do the rebuild myself
$????
Could take forever and who knows if I'll do it right....

Dealer rebuild
$2-4000?
Would be quality work and turn around would probably be fairly quick considering but $$$$$$$$$

Cheap is good - long wait isn't a big deal - I can't afford or justify to put a ton of $ into this truck but I have always said I would do everything right on this Pig (hence all OEM parts) - JB Weld isn't OEM but it might be my only choice for the time being...

hmmmm....

 

[Trollhole]

JB Weld is worth a try.

81 Machine shop will rebuild a 2f for 2k I think. Give them a call and take with Steve. They are doing another members motor out of a 60 right now. Might get you some kind of deal.

 

[Southeast Overland]

JB Weld is worth a try.

81 Machine shop will rebuild a 2f for 2k I think. Give them a call and take with Steve. They are doing another members motor out of a 60 right now. Might get you some kind of deal.

Top end was rebuilt by a Toyota dealer < 20k miles ago...so I only need the lower done...

 

[Kaderabek]

Top end was rebuilt by a Toyota dealer < 20k miles ago...

That thing doesn't move much.

TJK

 

[GXO]

JB Weld as a try just makes sense. There is nothing else wrong with the engine and I don't see it as cost effective to do a lower end rebuild because the crank got scored by the pulley. Fix the PS pulley mount, get everything lined up, JB weld the thing, and if it runs for 100 miles or 100,000 it was worth the effort.

 

[GXO]

BUMP!!! Fix it yet?

 

[Southeast Overland]

Not yet - have some stuff going on.

On a similar topic I might have a replacement roof sourced locally - will wait to see! I figure I can cut out the old roof, weld in a cage, and then weld on the new roof. Having a good chunk of the roof off will give me some extra room to work with installing the cage.

My goal for Dec & Jan is to install shims on the front axle, fix the bad vibration up front in 4wd, replace oil pan gasket, replace speedo housing, and figure out some solution for the crank other than a rebuild.

 

[n2666s]

Steve, you might try Cruiserparts.net; James has some low mile 2F engines for sale for a decent price; bought one for the fj60 and has about 10.000 miles since the install w/o skipping a beat..........just another option if the JB weld doesn't work....I would try that first; nothing to lose!

Lou

 

[cruiser_guy]

and figure out some solution for the crank other than a rebuild.

Pull the engine, mount on stand, remove timing cover, oil pan and pump. Pull crank. Install used crank c/w new bearings (bearings are cheap relatively speaking) and seals and check bearing clearances using plastigage. Put it all back together and away you go. You don't even need to touch the timing!!

That way it's done with OEM parts and it should last for a few more years.

Just because a pulley messed up the end of the crank does not mean that you need a rebuild. I assume a compression/leak down test comes out OK?

 

[Southeast Overland]

Pull the engine, mount on stand, remove timing cover, oil pan and pump. Pull crank. Install used crank c/w new bearings (bearings are cheap relatively speaking) and seals and check bearing clearances using plastigage. Put it all back together and away you go. You don't even need to touch the timing!!

That way it's done with OEM parts and it should last for a few more years.

Just because a pulley messed up the end of the crank does not mean that you need a rebuild. I assume a compression/leak down test comes out OK?

Haven't tested yet - maybe I can borrow Trollhole's gear?

I think your solution is the ticket - I'll do a little research and see exactly what I need, price it out, and report back.

 

[yooper]

or go back to the original suggestion. Remove the crank and have a machine shop repair damage, maybe just have them set it up for a smaller internal diameter pulley...

 

[inkpot]

Howdy! Unfortunately, when I have seen this problem on other applications, it is due to damage/wear on the shaft, usually on the inner pulley contact area: the dark part on Marshall's pic. A good machine shop can build it up and bring it back to spec, but that means pulling the crank. John

Howdy! Any good machine shop can build up the crank and turn it down to OEM specs, especially when you can hand them the pulley to go with. I would recommend a new pulley also. It is most likely hogged out on the I.D. The shop can cut a new keyway, also. The type of work is not rocket science, it is very common. If you can't find a fab shop, then start asking around at the local welding shops/suppliers. They will know who can get the job done. I get this kind of repairs done frequently for my newspaper press. You are lucky that it is not a bearing surface, like your rear axles. That would be more complicated to fix. You just need a snug fit, like a 0.001 - 0.002 inch interference, that way you need to use a little force to install it, but it will never move around on it's own. John

 

[Southeast Overland]

Spent ALL day today spreading mulch and pine straw around the house along with other yard duties to get the happy. With that done hopefully I will have a couple of hours tomorrow AM to do some Piggie work. I plan on test fitting the IPOR power steering bracket. After that I'll start disconnecting stuff in prep to pull the motor...might have to do a little research but it shouldn't be too hard.

The fun is about to start!

Time for a .

 

[Southeast Overland]

Got a little work in today. Removed the hood and started disconnecting the motor to pull it in a month or two hopefully. I removed the PS pump and bracket, and started working around the motor disconnecting everything. I hope to have everything disconnected tomorrow and will yank the ole' 2f as soon as a friend comes over with a tractor which = cheap way to yank the motor out.

​

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Eventhough, nice work man, I cannot believe the extent of the metal work and rust removal you have done! I remember that pig and specifically all of the rust shots from even back when Kaderabek owned it. Kudos to you for the extent of work and 'saving' honestly you did to this truck, looks great!! And again that is just awesome...

 

[Kaderabek]

Looked what emerged as my desktop this morning. Back in the day....

TJK

 

[Southeast Overland]

Looked what emerged as my desktop this morning. Back in the day....

TJK

Sweet!

I got about another hour in this afternoon. I was able to disconnect most of what I needed to pull the motor (besides the motor mounts themselves). Hopefully with another hour or so I will be close to yanking this baby and then the real fun begins.

My (hopefully realistic) goal is to have her running again in three to four months.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I'm such a slacker. I haven't spent much time the past few weeks on my Pig. I did help a fellow UC'r lift his 62 this weekend.

I now have access to an engine mount and engine hoist which will make this task much easier. Once UC'r has volunteered his assistance so hopefully if I can wrangle up one or two more people I'll be able to pull the motor and get the crank and main bearings swapped out in a day...is that too ambitious?

So - help me make a shopping list.
I already have a new oil pan gasket and rear main seal which I will replace when the motor is out.
What else do I need?
Main bearings?
Good crank and pulley - my pulley looks OK but it has been suggested to replace it anyways to be safe...
Anything else?

 

[n2666s]

Steve, how are things going with your hinge rebuild?

Lou