The Resurection of 'The Beast' (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Southeast Overland
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Southeast Overland
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- #622
I tried to pull the crank off by hand but that was a big NO GO.
What are you thinking? I'll try to clean things up tonight and take some pics.
Dan thought that since the pulley stopped wiggling while it was being pulled off it could have been bent due to the bad angle from the PS pump. I hope the crankshaft is OK...
PS being off is what probably caused the issue. But pulling the pulley off or onto a newer unused section of the crank. (though there is very little that is not used) Might mean the crank has issues. Will not know until the pulley is inspected as well as the crank.
I'm still betting the pulley is hosed. But it is possible the pulley messed up the crank. Metal hitting metal is never good.
Southeast Overland
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- #624
- I'll try to clean everything up and take some pics tonight. From my quick inspection it looked like the pulley was not contacting the crank a full 360 degrees but don't quote me on that.
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
Well after the clutch ran off I thought carrying the hi-lift would help find it again since the hi-lift and clutch were good friends from back in the day.
Winch also went out - pulled the motor and it was all rusted up inside.
Ok Eventhough, your woman probably went out on you because she is all wet inside. You need to sevice that issue first dude, she is rusty because of you! give her some lovin and stop callin her a winch. RESPECT, dude.
Winch also went out - pulled the motor and it was all rusted up inside.
Ok Eventhough, your woman probably went out on you because she is all wet inside. You need to sevice that issue first dude, she is rusty because of you! give her some lovin and stop callin her a winch. RESPECT, dude.
Southeast Overland
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- #626
RSB - the winch had gone out before w/ a PO due to the same problem. The motor has been cleaned very well (3x), lubed, and works great now. Trust me - I'm giving this Piggie a ton of loving. I wish you could see the old Pig and the new Pig side-by-side...you would understand!
Southeast Overland
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- #627
Hmmmm... only had a minute (literally) last night to look at the pulley and the crank. The pulley appeared OK - there were not any obvious signs of failure anywhere. The crank (which I only looked at for 10 secs literally) appeared to have a lip on the front edge of where the pulley pushes on...what should I be looking for?
Should look like this or similar.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! Unfortunately, when I have seen this problem on other applications, it is due to damage/wear on the shaft, usually on the inner pulley contact area: the dark part on Marshall's pic. A good machine shop can build it up and bring it back to spec, but that means pulling the crank. John
Southeast Overland
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- #630
Well, that is my guess. I'm away from the house on a hunting trip right now so I won't get a good look at the crank until tomorrow late. Looks like I will have a good winter project...
Southeast Overland
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- #631
Verdict is in - crank is forked. On Trollhole's pic look about 2 mm's in from the end of the crank where the dark area starts - As you move clockwise from the key this area starts smooth but then an edge forms and gets deeper as you move counterclockwise to the key again. Pulled the fan to get some pics but they aren't great. Gonna try to pull the oil pan this week and see what I have ahead of me.
Lets see some pics
So are you saying the damage is on the front, rear of the pulley or opposite the key?
So are you saying the damage is on the front, rear of the pulley or opposite the key?
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Southeast Overland
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- #633
Damage is not on the pulley - damage in on the crank. Damage starts from little to none immediately adjacent the key on the clockwise side and the groove gets deeper as you move clockwise all the way around back to the key.
I'll get some pics up shortly.
I'll get some pics up shortly.
Southeast Overland
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- #634
Here are some pics.
Pic 1) Why my winch wasn't working - well one of two causes. Clutch gear fell down into lower gears...
Pic 2) Crank with groove. Key is just out of view to the left. You can almost see the damage in this pic getting worse from left to right (clockwise).
Pic 1) Why my winch wasn't working - well one of two causes. Clutch gear fell down into lower gears...
Pic 2) Crank with groove. Key is just out of view to the left. You can almost see the damage in this pic getting worse from left to right (clockwise).
Yeah Was just trying to get an idea if it was in the front or back in relation to the pulley. Pics help understand the issue.
Steve this may be a crazy idea. But what I would do since the other option is yanking the engine is clean the area really well as well as the pulley. The get some JB weld and slather it on the inside of the pulley trying to stay away from the key way. Put the pulley on making sure you put pressure on it to stay straight and crank down on the nut. What do you have to loose?
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Southeast Overland
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- #636
Now I'm trying to do a little research into how involved this fix will be. Trollhole - can the shop you used for your Big Gay 2F fix this? My oil pan bolts are soaking in PB Blaster and I'll try to pull it tomorrow. Appears my timing cover is sealed w/ blue RTV - guess I don't have to order a new gasket...
...and I was hoping it was just a bad pulley!
Well HELL - just did some reading hoping I could replace my crank without yanking my motor but it looks like I was wrong.
Trollhole - don't you have a motor hoist?
And it all went downhill from there.....
...and I was hoping it was just a bad pulley!
Well HELL - just did some reading hoping I could replace my crank without yanking my motor but it looks like I was wrong.
Trollhole - don't you have a motor hoist?
And it all went downhill from there.....
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Yes but I wouldn't do it. Got to yank the tranny. Remove the clutch and flywheel. The drop the pan. Take Cam cover off. The rod caps. Then mains.
81 can fix the crank.
Might as well replace the main and rod bearings.
What I dont think you want to do is let a piston fall out. You need to call Poser and ask him. He will know exactly what to do.
I would yank the whole thing and split it up on the floor. Hell of a lot easier.
Southeast Overland
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- #638
Well hell.....
I would change the JB advice to this:
- Clean and desgrease very well.
- Sand the area you plan on building up
- Wipe all residue and hit with parts cleaner, allow to dry
- Apply a coat of JB weld to build up the area, allow to set
- Sand JB weld smooth and uniform, then apply another coat of JB weld, allow to dry
- Sand JB weld and wipe residue away
- Push pulley on, using the key and the good side as the guides
given your information and pictures, you have one side of the crank intact (or nearly so) and the other side worn down due to pulley wobble. If this is the case, you can build up the concave side with JB, then when you press the pulley back on it will use the good side as a guide and push the excess JB weld out of the way. This should get it tight, straight, and somewhat fixed without having to pull the crank.
It would be my first attempt before I looked into pulling the engine.
- Clean and desgrease very well.
- Sand the area you plan on building up
- Wipe all residue and hit with parts cleaner, allow to dry
- Apply a coat of JB weld to build up the area, allow to set
- Sand JB weld smooth and uniform, then apply another coat of JB weld, allow to dry
- Sand JB weld and wipe residue away
- Push pulley on, using the key and the good side as the guides
given your information and pictures, you have one side of the crank intact (or nearly so) and the other side worn down due to pulley wobble. If this is the case, you can build up the concave side with JB, then when you press the pulley back on it will use the good side as a guide and push the excess JB weld out of the way. This should get it tight, straight, and somewhat fixed without having to pull the crank.
It would be my first attempt before I looked into pulling the engine.
yooper
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