The Resurection of 'The Beast' (1 Viewer)

[Southeast Overland]

Did some work on the Piggie Sunday. Thanks to ClemsonCruiser and BillWright for the help. We are not sure what was making my engine sound sick but we THINK it was the power steering pump. The PS pump was out of alignment with everything else. We torqued it back into place with my patio umbrella pole (that was funny). We checked the valves but they seemed OK. New air filter, fuel filter, PSV valve and plugs rounded everything out. We also reset timing - it was WAAAAY advanced...but now come to find out this is often done on a desmogged 2f so I have some research to do. The Piggie ran fine with the reset timing when it was warm but after it cooled down I took it for another test drive and it wanted to die at idle so I'll have to do some searching on MUD.

Oh - painted my swing-away tire carrier too...still have some fabbing to do to finish it up but at least now its not rusting.



PS: might take you up on the gas offer Dan.

 

[yooper]

I spent a LOT of time trying to get the PS pump lined up but I never tried a giant lever!

Make sure you check the connections on the PS hoses now that you've messed with the pump. Twice I had them loosen up on me and leak after pump adjustment attempts. IIRC they would loosen up at the reservoir end...

I went to adjust the timing once, saw that it was way advanced, and got skeerd and left it that way since it was running fine! Never did the valves.

That's a really good 2F, possibly the strongest I've driven...

 

[yooper]

Did you get the winch working ok?

 

[Southeast Overland]

Thanks Yooper - I'll check the PS connections. Never looked at the winch this weekend. DanKunz is going to help me out with it maybe onsite before the Pumpkin Pig Run.

Thinking back maybe we should have left the timing alone but having the problems and seeing the timing waaaay advanced made several of us think that might be the problem. I'm doing some searches right now on the timing issue.

Do you know who did the desmog? Was it Lance?

ETA: thinking about buying the new IPOR PS mount...might fix the problem for good. Oh, and I like BF tools - force > finesse!

 

[Kaderabek]

It was desmogged by the original owner.

TJK

 

[n2666s]

Buy the IPOR mount; you will never regret it....Lance has these nailed down beautifully!

Lou

 

[inkpot]

Thinking back maybe we should have left the timing alone but having the problems and seeing the timing waaaay advanced made several of us think that might be the problem. I'm doing some searches right now on the timing issue.

[/QUOTE]
Howdy! It is normal for the idle to go up and down as the timing advances and retards. I ran the "non USA" distributor in my 72 FJ40 so I could advance it on the road, and retard it on the trail. I like chugging around the boonies all day under 1000 RPM. Better gas mileage and less breakage. John

 

[Southeast Overland]

Thanks John - sounds like I might need to advance the timing a bit to get the idle up but not as far as it was to make things run smoother.

I do get a nice gurgle out of the exhaust now as I decelerate! LOL

 

[inkpot]

Thanks John - sounds like I might need to advance the timing a bit to get the idle up but not as far as it was to make things run smoother.

I do get a nice gurgle out of the exhaust now as I decelerate! LOL

Howdy! Yea, just drive it around in different conditions. Try taking off in 2nd or 3rd. If it knocks and bucks, then you may be a little too advanced for the trail. Get the performance you like first, then set the idle screw back to where you want it. You may have to adjust both the main idle and the cold start idle. They should be real close to each other on the linkage. Lower idle will help with the deceleration, too. I run my 350 at about 400 rpm. Idles like a Harley: Puckata-Puckata-Puckata! John

 

[Southeast Overland]

Took a drive yesterday evening. Piggie idles around 550 rpm nicely when warm. When cold it will die when I come to a stop if I don't feed it gas. No longer pings under load which is NICE and doesn't smell nearly as bad of exhaust in the cab which is NICE. I think its better than it was - just need to fine tune now.

 

[inkpot]

Howdy! Sounds like your gaining on it. Just need to dial in that choke a bit. John

 

[Southeast Overland]

Not much time to post but spent a long weekend in the NC mountains wheeling. See https://forum.ih8mud.com/forumdisplay.php?f=37 for pics. The Piggie did very well. It is parked for awhile now as I need to do some fairly significant work on the engine - rear main seal and front output bearing (or whatever the correct term is for it) along with oil pan gasket and new power steering pump bracket - Happy Christmas to me. My front pulley at the water pump was bouncing around like my Jack Russell - I figure that can't be a good thing. Thanks to DanKunz for the diagnosis. Also something in the front drive train is making a helluva noise when I'm in 4wd...might be what Yooper had at one point. It's not a grinding noise but more of a HEAVY vibration. Happens in 4 high and low but not 2 high or low. That will have to be fixed before the next trip. I'm hoping its just the driveshaft worn and not the diff.

 

[Southeast Overland]

few pics from the weekend - some stolen from UC members

ETA: and no I don't carry two hi-lifts - I was totin' one for a member who lost his clutch.

 

[Kaderabek]

ETA: and no I don't carry two hi-lifts - I was totin' one for a member who lost his clutch.

Was his Hi-Lift making it difficult for him to find his clutch...?

TJK

 

[Southeast Overland]

Was his Hi-Lift making it difficult for him to find his clutch...?

TJK

Well after the clutch ran off I thought carrying the hi-lift would help find it again since the hi-lift and clutch were good friends from back in the day.

Your old Piggie flexed pretty well and the rear locker worked very nicely. I was able to climb right up some things that I thought would have given me a bit more trouble. I followed a front/rear locked 80 on 37's for many lines but took some easier lines at times. This was the first time I disconnected the rear and that helped a bunch also.

I only had trouble twice - once when my rear end slid down a bank and made me a little tippy and once when my longer wheel base made it hard to keep the front end up on a bank. A little spotting and repositioning got me right past both points. Thanks to DanKunz and BMThiker for the help.

Winch also went out - pulled the motor and it was all rusted up inside. I'm going to try and soak it in some di grease but think a rebuilt WARN motor is in my future.

 

[Kaderabek]

There's a Warn service center in Hickory.

TJK

 

[Southeast Overland]

Thanks - I've heard of them and will check them out. DanKunz helped me pull the motor basically on the trail. Both solenoids click in fwd and reverse. The motor wouldn't turn by hand but we were able to knock it loose and we lubed it up and remounted it hoping it would now work but no luck. Supposedly there is an aftermarket company that rebuilds WARN motors for about $150.....sounds like a deal to me.

 

[GXO]

http://www.dbelectrical.com/winch/winch.shtml#warn is the place for rebuilt warn motors. I have one in my M12000 and it works great...just match up the part number from the winch or the motor and order one.

That front end noise it strange. Your crank pully is wobbling up and down (not out of round) and it seems to be the front bearing allowing enough play and the whole system slapping (causing the mystery noise). I put a wooden dowel right on the block behind the main crank pulley and the noise is right there for sure...it is not coming from the PS system or mount (but I am sure that it being offset can't help).

The vibration I IM'ed you about. I would just drop the front shaft and see if it still happens in 4low. If it does I would suspect t-case, otherwise you know it is either driveshaft or front axle.

 

[Kaderabek]

I put in a rebuilt transfer case so that shouldn't be the problem.

Oh wait. "I put in a ...." Could be the problem.

TJK

 

[Southeast Overland]

Where did you source the rebuilt tcase from?