FJBen
SILVER Star
We had that same motorcycle growing up. 1 red and 1 blue. Abused the heck out of that poor Yamaha and it kept going.
Builds The "Red Rocket" Troopy (10 Viewers)
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Cool bike i've got similar but it's the 175
FJBen
SILVER Star
We had one of those as well. Hard to kill them, brings back memories.
1972 ?
Yep a 72 CT175
- Thread starter
- #1,026
The troopy doesn't have P/S so I will just be taking it off of the 4BD1T. I believe alternator rewiring is one of the only electronic bits in the engine I'll really have to mess with. There is nothing else on this engine/part of the swap that should be electronic minus the starter, and pyrometer, plus all of the other gauges that arent mechanical. But as for my vehicle to be able to run... Really just the alternator. I want everything to be as mechanical as possible. I hate electronics and dealing with them, just not my strong point in the slightest. I want it so if my alternator fails or my batteries die, that I can still clutch start the troopy and drive it (albeit without any lights or anything)
No, our school doesn't have nearly as many machines and tools as he has. Just his own shop 20 minutes out of town. I will 100% want to watch everything he does, and help where I can. Would be awesome.
I've been told that all the wires alone would have to be replaced leading to my lights, turn signals etc etc. Something about the gauge/thickness not being big enough to support 12v, only 24v. I also have literally no clue what I'm talking about as the electrical world is an entirely different language to me. So anyone who is more knowledgeable than me please chime in!
SWEEEEEET, I have been buying and flipping antique chainsaws for the past couple months as a little side gig, decided to step up to a bigger 2stroke. Waiting for a title to come in using the VT Loophole. Hoping to make some decent profit off of it but every time I ride it I get sadder and sadder that I'm selling it! Such a fun little bike. Motorcycles do scare me to death, not that I don't trust myself but everyone else on the road. Everyone I know who actively rides has a crash story or knows someone who died cause some 16-year-old was on their phone, just scary.
Well the Kentucky coal miner that owned it before me must have REALLY neglected it, both of the crank bearings were very crusty from water getting into it at some point. Ontop of the gas tank being dented everywhere and spray painted blue? Compounded it off.
How do you even start to repin or combine the pins together? Are there websites that sell adapters or just jerry rig your own?
Good news is that underneath the valve cover is SUPER CLEAN!!! I guess I should have expected this as the engine only has 86,000 miles on it but its still nice to see
Hi
Converting the entire car to 12V is difficult:
- 24V gauges most like won't work. I doubt this can be fixed by only bypassing a resistor.
- Wires in the harness are to small to keep up with the higher amperage of a 12V system. It will work but will be a constant risk, in particular with a harness that old. At least I would run respectiveley sized cables and relais to bear the workload and use the harness to actuate the relais only. But this is a bigger mod.
I would rather suggest to change the engine electric. Less items and better accessibility oe exchangeability. I'm not familiar with that engine, so I can not judge the impact on EDIC or ECU or stuff. Sensors (e.g. oil and water) however might work as those are either resistors or switches.
Good Luck
Ralf
Converting the entire car to 12V is difficult:
- 24V gauges most like won't work. I doubt this can be fixed by only bypassing a resistor.
- Wires in the harness are to small to keep up with the higher amperage of a 12V system. It will work but will be a constant risk, in particular with a harness that old. At least I would run respectiveley sized cables and relais to bear the workload and use the harness to actuate the relais only. But this is a bigger mod.
I would rather suggest to change the engine electric. Less items and better accessibility oe exchangeability. I'm not familiar with that engine, so I can not judge the impact on EDIC or ECU or stuff. Sensors (e.g. oil and water) however might work as those are either resistors or switches.
Good Luck
Ralf
I would confirm gauge thickness of wires. Reason most were 24v was for additional safety factor and longevity per NATO spec. I doubt Toyota would reduce gauge as it would defeat the purpose they were after.
I was under the assumption (big problem there) that the harnesses and wires are all for specced for 12v vehicles, and then only one size would be needed for assembly purposes. 12v wire sizes good for 12 and 24 volts, as 24v electrics only need half the amps of 12. And as you mentioned there would be additional safety factory when wire sized for 12 volts are in a 24v truck.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
I think Ralf is right. Probably easier to use a 24V alternator and find ways to provide the donor engine with 12V. I guess the starter is the real problem.
Can you compare wiring harness part numbers for factory 12V models vs 24V? Maybe Australian versions vs JDM.
For electrical connectors, pins, etc, I start with photos on the Eastern Beaver catalog. Very often I find a match among SUMITOMO unsealed connectors. I have made some simple adapters with parts from E.B. so I would not have to cut factory wiring.
Can you compare wiring harness part numbers for factory 12V models vs 24V? Maybe Australian versions vs JDM.
For electrical connectors, pins, etc, I start with photos on the Eastern Beaver catalog. Very often I find a match among SUMITOMO unsealed connectors. I have made some simple adapters with parts from E.B. so I would not have to cut factory wiring.
- Thread starter
- #1,031
Alright sooooo, no more needing to worry about rewiring. I have the alternator sorted I believe. Took one of the alternators for the 3B I had just laying around and tried to fit it on, fits pretty well, almost like it's supposed to. Need to add some spacers on the bottom, get a longer bolt for the bottom. Other than that the oil supply banjo bolt is the same thread, along with the top mounting bolt. Just need to swap over the pulley from the Isuzu alternator to the 3B one, everything looks like it should line up fine! Big win in my opinion as I won't have to mess with the wiring really much at all.
Sweet, got that figured out I hope.
I'm a big fan of the "brake bleeder" screw on the fuel filter that the 3B has, helped me plenty of times when having to get air out of the system. Saw that the 4BD1T didn't have one so I just swapped it over, same thread pitch and everything.
Need to figure out a possible issue I don't think many have had. Since I won't be using power steering This just leaves a bunch of lines open. I believe the PS is driven off of the timing gears as I don't see any pulley for anything? I don't want to possibly seize up, fry, or make something run dry if I just have some PS lines open.
I was thinking of a way to incorporate the Isuzu engine mounts but after reading more on 4BTswaps.com I think I'll go with some liquid-filled mounts instead. Wish I could just go ahead and line everything up in my engine bay.
Sweet, got that figured out I hope.
I'm a big fan of the "brake bleeder" screw on the fuel filter that the 3B has, helped me plenty of times when having to get air out of the system. Saw that the 4BD1T didn't have one so I just swapped it over, same thread pitch and everything.
Need to figure out a possible issue I don't think many have had. Since I won't be using power steering This just leaves a bunch of lines open. I believe the PS is driven off of the timing gears as I don't see any pulley for anything? I don't want to possibly seize up, fry, or make something run dry if I just have some PS lines open.
I was thinking of a way to incorporate the Isuzu engine mounts but after reading more on 4BTswaps.com I think I'll go with some liquid-filled mounts instead. Wish I could just go ahead and line everything up in my engine bay.
Good on you figuring out your alternater adaptation. On wire sizes 24V vs 12V. Yes it's true 24V requires half the amperage of 12V to light a conventional bulb.............This doesn't mean toyota used reduced size wire on 24V harnesses. It is likely they used the same wiring harness on all LC's of that model/near model. You can measure wires with a caliper to figure it out.............All that said if you convert to LED bulbs in your lighting then your Amperage drops dramatically in comparison and you will no longer need to worry about the wire size so much.
I post out of offering information and wanting someone who knows to "put it out there" if they know why. My 24V LC has a really large resistor in the instrument cluster. I believe this to be able to run the cluster on 24 vs 12 V. Anyone know what that resistor is for?
I post out of offering information and wanting someone who knows to "put it out there" if they know why. My 24V LC has a really large resistor in the instrument cluster. I believe this to be able to run the cluster on 24 vs 12 V. Anyone know what that resistor is for?
I may have missed it but what is your plan for the starter? If this engine does not exist in 24V, a 24V compatible starter may not exist... A dropper from 24V to 12V on the amps on the amps needed for the starter is probably way too big... I don't see any easy hack.
Not 100% sure on the 70series but on the 24V 40series there is a resistor on the back of the cluster to drop voltage for 2 of the gauges that are the same than for 12V vehicles.
- Thread starter
- #1,034
These engines were actually made in 24v all around the world other than America. Which means... tons of crappy Chinese copies of everything from alibaba in 24v, there are so many Chinese clones in fact that I cant find anything OEM or from a reputable manufacturer. I can go down that route if I wanted but the 12v starter should be able to take 24v in bits and pieces, aslong as I don't stay on the starter. I don't know what would be worse, running a somewhat reputable starter on twice the voltage or running a very cheap, probably remanufactured Chinese replica. I always hear of the Warn 8274 Winch being able to take 24v, just you can't stay on it for along but it pulls twice as fast. Anyone have any recommendations of what I should do?
you can't find a 12V starter here in the US?
- Thread starter
- #1,036
I can, plenty of 12v starters. 24v are the virtually non-existent ones. Sorry if I explained it poorly
prwillard2
SILVER Star
I'd honestly try and find a 24v one that seems reputable. Going to take some time to find, but probably better than running double the volts "just because it can" for a little bit of time.
jblueridge
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why are you not running power steering? The isuzu pump has the same fitting size on the pressure outlet as all the Toyota hoses and should be super easy.
- Thread starter
- #1,040
Good idea, might try that then. Can’t hurt at all.
Yes this is definitely the sensible option. Like you said might just take a longggggg time.
Very good point and question. I don’t have a P/S box or anything of that nature and as I’m on an extremely tight budget and need to put the money elsewhere for the swap, it’s just not a priority for me. I was never bothered by the lack of it much, besides when parallel parking or wheeling in Moab. Felt like it kept my arms in shape haha. I’ll save the parts for later in the future when I have more funds set aside to add power steering. A new turbo will probably come before that aswell as ALOT of rust repair
