You're so nice to the troopy. I used a 8lb sledgehammer to clearance my chevy. Don't be too nice.. Make sure you get plenty of clearance for engine shake during start and torquing back and forth. Believe it or not adding in all the compound angles and shapes with the hammer probably makes the metal more rigid???Right? Really hope all will be working out for you. Looking great so far.
Builds The "Red Rocket" Troopy (9 Viewers)
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You're so nice to the troopy. I used a 8lb sledgehammer to clearance my chevy. Don't be too nice.. Make sure you get plenty of clearance for engine shake during start and torquing back and forth. Believe it or not adding in all the compound angles and shapes with the hammer probably makes the metal more rigid???Right? Really hope all will be working out for you. Looking great so far.
You don’t need a muffler. Didn’t need one when I had the 13BT 70 and don’t need one with my 12HT
FJBen
SILVER Star
I currently don’t have one, but I at least need to extend it back as it’s just a really short dump pipe under the drivers door.
It’s straight up frito lay sounding.
FJBen
SILVER Star
i dont remember wich one i used, but it was bluepretty sure it was a Walker Blue Streak
Is that an old school glass pack? I heard you can’t run a glass pack on a diesel, but who knows.
I ran one with louvers instead of perforation, and then ran the louvers to not scoop the exhaust if that makes sense.
But I'm no expert so take it as my own experience.
But I'm no expert so take it as my own experience.
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Hmm, mine on the Ute dumps in front of the left rear tire. With windows closed I don’t hear it much if any with all the other noises
if I want to hear it I roll down my windows 
Have you looked into the aero turbine? Seems like a good option.
haha, seems a turbo really cuts the pulses of sound,,, i drove it a couple times around the neighborhood getting it road ready, then drove it to the exhaust shop with only a foot of exhaust after the turbo, it was too much obviously. i didnt really know what to expect once the full exhaust was on and i thought i wanted at least a bit of muffler, hence the straight through glasspack. prolly didnt afterall, but i really did like the result.Hmm, mine on the Ute dumps in front of the left rear tire. With windows closed I don’t hear it much if any with all the other noises
- Thread starter
- #1,069
Well the bellhosuing now fits! The transmission was sagging in the rear angling the input shaft upwards. With it jacked up correctly it levels out the bellhosuing, along with the firewall being beat in, this leaves enough room for the bell housing to tighten up all snug!
Many issues lie ahead... now the engine goes in for the first time
Many issues lie ahead... now the engine goes in for the first time
- Thread starter
- #1,071
I'm genuinely stumped... most of the stuff with this swap has sorted itself out or there is some clear work around but this is very damming. The starter wont fit, it doesn't clear the frame rail, watch the video below to get a full idea what I'm talking about... good news is the oil pan clears!
Like I said in that video, if the triangle bolting pattern was even then I could just clock the starter motor straight down but sadly it only mounts 1 way. I'm currently cursing some 85-year-old Japanese man who engineered this little section of the 4BD1T. It's so close to being perfect... but its not
This is how it mounts to the engine, need to somehow gain 2 inches of clearance to the passenger side.
I hadn't read about this in other threads for 40/60 series but I assume its cause their frames don't bend inwards nearly as much as the 70's? (This is totally a guess someone more knowledgeable please comment) aswell as the fact that the transmission is clearly off center to the driver side... by quite a bit. If there was some way to even it out and get it more centered then there might be hope but at the moment I am STUMPED.
Please anyone with any more knowledge or skills with this kinda thing chime in. I'd love any advice anyone has
Like I said in that video, if the triangle bolting pattern was even then I could just clock the starter motor straight down but sadly it only mounts 1 way. I'm currently cursing some 85-year-old Japanese man who engineered this little section of the 4BD1T. It's so close to being perfect... but its not
This is how it mounts to the engine, need to somehow gain 2 inches of clearance to the passenger side.
I hadn't read about this in other threads for 40/60 series but I assume its cause their frames don't bend inwards nearly as much as the 70's? (This is totally a guess someone more knowledgeable please comment) aswell as the fact that the transmission is clearly off center to the driver side... by quite a bit. If there was some way to even it out and get it more centered then there might be hope but at the moment I am STUMPED.
Please anyone with any more knowledge or skills with this kinda thing chime in. I'd love any advice anyone has
- Thread starter
- #1,072
I'm too deep into it at this point, with every road block there's always a work around that is found... just with this most recent one I don't even know where to start to find a way around this roadblock hahagood job man
i was wondering if this was going to end up being one of those 'forgotten' swaps
cheers
Isuzu Starter Info
I came across this site that has a nice starter cross reference. Might be useful for someone interested in mixing and matching different starter. They also have links to pictures. Note that the MG240 are labeled CCW and are used in the 4H series engines. This would indicate to me that they...
Not sure if this one will help or not, but check in 4btswaps for info on 3 bolt direct drive starters. They’re much more slim, they may not have the body hanging off.
According to the frame dimensions in the FSM, the 75-series is 630mm between the frame in the engine bay, and the 60-series is 676mm, so 46mm or about 1.8" difference. You mentioned that the transmission is offset, is it supposed to be that way or is it just at an angle because there is no engine attached to it? The transmission in my Prado would wobble all over the place when the engine wasn't attached, I had to bolt up the engine, then measure between the frame rails to the center of the crank pulley to center the engine so I could make engine mounts.
You can make this work. You made adapter plates to bolt uncommon engine/bellhousing/tranny together. Get some aluminum plate drill, jigsaw, welder together and figure out how to clock that starter around and extend the motor shaft by welding if need be...?.. Notch the frame and weld a reinforcing plate. mount the engine off center, or higher up........................Noone made a successful helicopter for years because they were all trying to be overly perfect to cancel out the twisting force of the rotor blade....It took Sikorsky to say "screw perfect" put a tail rotor on it to push against the twisting of the rotor blade.....Voila. You will figure it out.
so close!!! you'll think of something
Is there a non-geared starter option in the Isuzu line for this engine family? The gearing reduces the size of the starter required for this engine, but the offset pushes the armature body into your frame. If a non-geared starter is in the product line, it would be bigger overall (definitely longer) but it would not have the offset, which might tuck in next to your frame rather than interfere with it.
Applications where a non-geared starter might have been used by Isuzu for the motor family might be stationary motors, ag equipment, construction equipment, ...
Applications where a non-geared starter might have been used by Isuzu for the motor family might be stationary motors, ag equipment, construction equipment, ...
good thought, I had a replacement aftermarket high torque starter in my old '84 merc, it was actually smaller than the ome.
