Builds The "Red Rocket" Troopy

FJBen

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 1, 2004
Messages
6,509
Location
Northern Colorado
The 3b has a 21 spline 260mm clutch disc

The 13bt has a 21 spline 275mm clutch disc Some 1HZ is the same.

Some earlier 4bd1t have 21 spline 275mm clutch discs.

Later 4bd1t have the 21 spline 300mm disc.


Do you know which size flywheel you have?

The question would be can you fit the 300mm setup in the 3B H55f bellhousing.

If 300mm
You could use your Isuzu flywheel, 1hd-T pressure plate and npr 21 spline 300mm disc.

If 275, you could use 13bt pressure plate and disc.

You may have to re-drill some holes or dowels , not 100% sure.
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2019
Messages
647
Location
Wilmington, North Carolina
As the owner of a 3b-t running around 20 psi do you have any insight on why this happened?
Any telltale stress marks/pre-existing fracture lines/ casting imperfections on the crank, con rods etc that might have helped lead to this, or point you in a direction of why this failed? Bad bottom end bearings?
Was there an 'event' that preceded this breakage? long loaded trip, boost spike, flogging it around at high boost low rpm?
I’ll look over everything in detail and get decent photos later, was taking these with oil all over my gloves and lense. Just from a basic inspection, there is nothing I can tell… other than the crankshaft split in half. none of the bearings spun on this engine, some are pitted and scored but non spun. There was no event, I was driving down the highway at 65mph, pushing 8psi or so of boost and it just started clattering and knocking, still ran fine and started just fine. Figured I had spun a bearing but it turned out that the crankshaft was split. I did a long road trip across America a year before the break and proceeded to drive it around in the mountains my first year of college, pedal to the metal 3rd gear uphill most of the time anywhere just to keep 35mph. My max psi was 16, very rarely 18 if I was in low range PULLING. I would never want to hold it that high though, tried to stay around 12.
if one cylinder was not igniting, could it have broken a con rod then snapped the crank from uneven force on it?
I cant think of a reason why one cylinder wouldnt have been igniting, being a diesel
I should have explained further, these are 2 different engines. The engine with the blown crank was my first original engine, put around 50-60,000 miles on it in 2 years. Half of them were with the turbo. Then I got a 2nd engine, swapped it in, put 150 miles on it andddd it started knocking. At that point I gave up with a 3B being in a troopcarrier, especially in America. I was just done.

So the “3 cyl 3B” was my 2nd engine, still don’t know how it failed but it started knocking, took the head off and saw 1 wet cylinder. My guess is it lost compression, for some reason or another that’s why it wasn’t firing. Wether that’s related to the bottom end knocking I don’t know
Or a hydro-lock
I wasn’t near any water, just driving around my home town going 35mph with the 2nd engine when it started to knock


The 3b has a 21 spline 260mm clutch disc

The 13bt has a 21 spline 275mm clutch disc Some 1HZ is the same.

Some earlier 4bd1t have 21 spline 275mm clutch discs.

Later 4bd1t have the 21 spline 300mm disc.


Do you know which size flywheel you have?

The question would be can you fit the 300mm setup in the 3B H55f bellhousing.

If 300mm
You could use your Isuzu flywheel, 1hd-T pressure plate and npr 21 spline 300mm disc.

If 275, you could use 13bt pressure plate and disc.

You may have to re-drill some holes or dowels , not 100% sure.
Thank you for all the info, this will be great to compare and be able to mix and match to. I haven’t checked the flywheel size, figured it was all universal. If it is 300mm that’s a great idea, a Frankenstein of parts all together!
Other damages than the broken web on the crankshaft?
Thanks for sharing.
Will get better images later, pistons have some scoring on them but some of my cylinders still have the cross hatching in them!


Last night my buddies and I had a fire out on the beach, put the crankshaft in for an hour or so. Looked awesome.
27873CD9-87A9-45DD-8C18-DBEC8018CE49.jpeg
 
Joined
Oct 15, 2010
Messages
215
Location
Quebec, Canada
While glowed red, you could have weld back the missing web and buried it in the sand for a slow cool down ahah!
I expected your crank to be broken in two halve? Or at least some crack on one journal. But a broken web??
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 7, 2019
Messages
844
Location
North Carolina, USA
The 3b has a 21 spline 260mm clutch disc

The 13bt has a 21 spline 275mm clutch disc Some 1HZ is the same.

Some earlier 4bd1t have 21 spline 275mm clutch discs.

Later 4bd1t have the 21 spline 300mm disc.


Do you know which size flywheel you have?

The question would be can you fit the 300mm setup in the 3B H55f bellhousing.

If 300mm
You could use your Isuzu flywheel, 1hd-T pressure plate and npr 21 spline 300mm disc.

If 275, you could use 13bt pressure plate and disc.

You may have to re-drill some holes or dowels , not 100% sure.
Awesome information here!
 

joekatana

GOLD Star
Joined
May 30, 2008
Messages
4,903
Location
Texas
Just fyi a simple block lift only works on spring over trucks , spring under you will need a complete new lift or upgrade the front axle to a 8” HP and even move it a bit forward out of the way , this is also making some needed clearance for bigger tires at full steering lock .
 
Joined
Dec 7, 2019
Messages
844
Location
North Carolina, USA
I’ll look over everything in detail and get decent photos later, was taking these with oil all over my gloves and lense. Just from a basic inspection, there is nothing I can tell… other than the crankshaft split in half. none of the bearings spun on this engine, some are pitted and scored but non spun. There was no event, I was driving down the highway at 65mph, pushing 8psi or so of boost and it just started clattering and knocking, still ran fine and started just fine. Figured I had spun a bearing but it turned out that the crankshaft was split. I did a long road trip across America a year before the break and proceeded to drive it around in the mountains my first year of college, pedal to the metal 3rd gear uphill most of the time anywhere just to keep 35mph. My max psi was 16, very rarely 18 if I was in low range PULLING. I would never want to hold it that high though, tried to stay around 12.

I should have explained further, these are 2 different engines. The engine with the blown crank was my first original engine, put around 50-60,000 miles on it in 2 years. Half of them were with the turbo. Then I got a 2nd engine, swapped it in, put 150 miles on it andddd it started knocking. At that point I gave up with a 3B being in a troopcarrier, especially in America. I was just done.

So the “3 cyl 3B” was my 2nd engine, still don’t know how it failed but it started knocking, took the head off and saw 1 wet cylinder. My guess is it lost compression, for some reason or another that’s why it wasn’t firing. Wether that’s related to the bottom end knocking I don’t know

I wasn’t near any water, just driving around my home town going 35mph with the 2nd engine when it started to knock



Thank you for all the info, this will be great to compare and be able to mix and match to. I haven’t checked the flywheel size, figured it was all universal. If it is 300mm that’s a great idea, a Frankenstein of parts all together!

Will get better images later, pistons have some scoring on them but some of my cylinders still have the cross hatching in them!


Last night my buddies and I had a fire out on the beach, put the crankshaft in for an hour or so. Looked awesome.View attachment 3176900
I think you are on to something there. Throwing a cracked crankshaft into a fire to "meld the cracks back together" and then retempering it in moist beach sand. I bet if you leave the sand on the crank and reinstall it wall also "self polish" "self machine" properly into the block.
 

PabloCruise

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
22,885
Location
Northern Colorado
The 3b has a 21 spline 260mm clutch disc

The 13bt has a 21 spline 275mm clutch disc Some 1HZ is the same.

Some earlier 4bd1t have 21 spline 275mm clutch discs.

Later 4bd1t have the 21 spline 300mm disc.


Do you know which size flywheel you have?

The question would be can you fit the 300mm setup in the 3B H55f bellhousing.

If 300mm
You could use your Isuzu flywheel, 1hd-T pressure plate and npr 21 spline 300mm disc.

If 275, you could use 13bt pressure plate and disc.

You may have to re-drill some holes or dowels , not 100% sure.
Good information here! Hopefully he can run the 300mm disc?
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2019
Messages
647
Location
Wilmington, North Carolina
No progress yet on anything. I'm assuming I'll head back home on the 18th or around then. The professor up here who has offered to help cut out and machine an adapter plate for me is busy with finals until the 16th or so. Don't want to pressure him or rush him as he's a great guy, but for now it's just a waiting game.

I can't seem to find any reputable 24v alternator or starters for the 4bd1t that arent outrageously priced.... So I might just stock up on like 3 different $100 alternators and change them out whenever the next one fails. As for the starter I'm thinking I might not even mess with it until later, ontop of funds being pretty scarce, I've read quite bit and the 12v starter should be able to take 24v in some light doses. As long as I don't stay on it cranking and cranking... it should, in theory, be fine. If anything it'll just speed up the starter, meaning I would be using it even less. This engine already started up amazing so I'm not to worried about the starter, just the crappy alternator(s).

The fuel shutoff/enrichment solonied/motor thing for the injection pump will not be used. I will just run the injection pump off of 2 cables. Kinda like those aussie guys do when their edic motors die, just run a cable to it to shut it off.

I have no idea where to even start with motor mounts, use the old isuzu ones and connect them to my frame or just make entirely new ones orrrr? Time will tell I guess. Same goes for if my oil pan will even clear my front diff. Wishfully thinking it will, but more likely than not it won't. Same goes for pilot bearings or clutch throwout bearings, no idea where to even try and source that custom stuff from

Lots of unknowns await me in the future, will just have to keep at it I guess.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In other words I bought a 1976 Yamaha DT125 not running, turns out the entire engine needed to be rebuilt so I've been doing that over the past month. Just got it running today


Super precise, totally professional crankshaft trueing
IMG_0083.JPG

IMG_0035.JPG

IMG_0136.JPG
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2019
Messages
647
Location
Wilmington, North Carolina
My friend lives in a house where the owner parked a 40 in the garage at in 2002. Hasn't ran since then. Owner told the people who lived here before him that if they got it running they could just have it... Since I'm just up here waiting I went over to check it out. In a couple hours we had it running!

IMG_0282.JPG
IMG_0268.JPG
IMG_0290.JPG
IMG_0289.JPG
IMG_0291.JPG


At first no power was getting to anything, so I pulled the main ground for the battery off and cleaned everything up, boom power. Then we had no spark, sanded the points, cleaned them with electronic cleaner... still no spark. It turned out it was literally as simple as 6 new spark plugs. Put some fuel down the carb and BOOM it runs! There is no key for it sadly so I had to just jump the ignition coil and the starter for us to get spark and the starter to work but it runs! smooth and well.

Excuse the crunchy noise, the guy running the wire to the starter isn't as knowledgeable and I forgot to tell him to take the wire off the battery when it started to run, therefore the starter was still engaging while the engine was spinning.

That is all, not troopy related but its just so nice to be able to wrench and revive any cruiser.
 
Joined
May 6, 2010
Messages
533
Location
Armstrong, Canada
lol... nice! So will the owner of the house honor his original thought and let your buddy have the land cruiser since you guys got it running. From the looks of the 40, it is going to require copious funding and work to get it back to life! But free is hard to beat and makes a project like that a lot easier to justify.... very kewl! :cheers:
 
Joined
Mar 3, 2021
Messages
300
Location
bc
nice one! 👍
 

PabloCruise

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
22,885
Location
Northern Colorado
lol... nice! So will the owner of the house honor his original thought and let your buddy have the land cruiser since you guys got it running. From the looks of the 40, it is going to require copious funding and work to get it back to life! But free is hard to beat and makes a project like that a lot easier to justify.... very kewl! :cheers:
X2! Wondering if you guys get to inherit the 40?
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2019
Messages
647
Location
Wilmington, North Carolina
Thanks for all the kind words everyone!!! Loving it.

Some kinda meh news, engine swap will 100% not be completed during winter break. The professor has been commissioned for a BIG top secret project that obviously takes place over some kids troopy swap. Won’t be able to help me until after new years. Sucks!!! But also not the end of the world. Think I’ll spend this time trying to figure out everything like motor mounts, then again I kinda need everything to be bolted up for that so yea, idrk. I’ll try to do something, any suggestions on what I can tackle without having the engine mounted to the tranny?
 
Joined
Dec 22, 2015
Messages
1,821
Location
Whitefish/Bozeman, MT
I would recommend going through and making a list of all the different systems that will need to be hooked up, then work on figuring out how to mate each engine system to the vehicle system. Things like power steering fittings, alternator wiring, engine electrical, etc. Figure out any electrical re-pinning or other changes and diagram them so when it comes time to wire everything up you have a wiring schematic to work off of.

Motor mounts and things like coolant lines and intake tubes will probably have to wait until the motor is in place. I don't think engine swaps ever go as quickly as originally intended!
 
Joined
Dec 7, 2019
Messages
844
Location
North Carolina, USA
No progress yet on anything. I'm assuming I'll head back home on the 18th or around then. The professor up here who has offered to help cut out and machine an adapter plate for me is busy with finals until the 16th or so. Don't want to pressure him or rush him as he's a great guy, but for now it's just a waiting game.

I can't seem to find any reputable 24v alternator or starters for the 4bd1t that arent outrageously priced.... So I might just stock up on like 3 different $100 alternators and change them out whenever the next one fails. As for the starter I'm thinking I might not even mess with it until later, ontop of funds being pretty scarce, I've read quite bit and the 12v starter should be able to take 24v in some light doses. As long as I don't stay on it cranking and cranking... it should, in theory, be fine. If anything it'll just speed up the starter, meaning I would be using it even less. This engine already started up amazing so I'm not to worried about the starter, just the crappy alternator(s).

The fuel shutoff/enrichment solonied/motor thing for the injection pump will not be used. I will just run the injection pump off of 2 cables. Kinda like those aussie guys do when their edic motors die, just run a cable to it to shut it off.

I have no idea where to even start with motor mounts, use the old isuzu ones and connect them to my frame or just make entirely new ones orrrr? Time will tell I guess. Same goes for if my oil pan will even clear my front diff. Wishfully thinking it will, but more likely than not it won't. Same goes for pilot bearings or clutch throwout bearings, no idea where to even try and source that custom stuff from

Lots of unknowns await me in the future, will just have to keep at it I guess.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In other words I bought a 1976 Yamaha DT125 not running, turns out the entire engine needed to be rebuilt so I've been doing that over the past month. Just got it running today


Super precise, totally professional crankshaft trueing
View attachment 3193043
View attachment 3193044
View attachment 3193058

Chances are converting Non 24V assets to 12V will be less of a problem than converting your engine to 24V. All your lights will be a little dimmer but they will work. Easy to replace bulbs. Gas guage? You know how much you burn ...experiment.... full manual glow plugs on 12V is stupid easy....On the 24V dash instrument panel there is a big resistor in the back. I am guessing it allows all the stuff normally for 12V to run on 24....Someone smarter please chime in here. Does the 12V panel have that big resistor?.. Wire bypassing it may let all your 24V instruments run on 12 OK........................No matter all that chances are your 12V starter will be OK on 24 intermittently as much or better than your batteries would be better starting on 12V "splitting between the 2 batteries.". Neither is "correct", but both will work for awhile. Forge ahead and learn from what you do and own your mistakes and successes.
Hope you have a great Christmas!-R.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom