First engine is pretty much just the block left... and since this block is toast my buddy and I, who is in industrial design at app state, are gonna make a table, will update with results at some point.
Check out this crank damage!
I cant tell if it's casting marks but they look deep and kinda spread out, I think it has also fractured among many of the casting marks
Since you have CAD design support, have you considered electronically mocking up your baseline configuration (Isuzu engine/bellhousing combo with an adapter to H55) to enable defining what this baseline does to transmission placement (i.e., shift and transfer case shift level locations, drive shaft lengths and angles, cross member/transmission support member location & fabrication, electrical connection changes in harness for transmission/transfer connections). The Isuzu engine will require new mounting / radiator / shroud in any configuration that you choose. Be sure to look at engine oil pan sump location versus your front axle too. [you don't want the axle to collide with your oil pan when it articulates up.]
My suggestion is develop the information so you can make data driven decisions rather than jump at what appears to be the easiest. Easiest comes in many forms
- easiest decision to make today
- easiest to pay for
- easiest to maintain and service for years to come
- easiest in total fabrication scope and time
- ....
Good luck
I don't plan on having to move the transmission at all, along with anything in the rear end, I THINK that around a 1in spacer should be enough to everything all lined up and spaced properly, if anything the input shaft would have been too long so I'll just need to make the adapter plate the thickness that I need to make up for.
I do expect to have to make new engine mounts obviously, along with using the stock isuzu radiator (which is quite a bit larger than the 3B) and the shroud... all of that I'm not too excited for but I realize its part of the whole process. I've read previously that you need at least a 3in lift in order to clean the oil pan on a 40 and 60 series, I have a 2inch lift so I'm expecting to have to cut a divot in the oil pan possibly and hope it doesn't interfere with the oil pickup. If not I'll do some cheap block lift another inch or so and put 33's on it to make it not look too dorky.
Thank you for running over the basics and getting me thinking, if anyone else has anything to add please do!! Wisdom is key and I am very much lacking it.
And I should have mentioned the input shaft to the H55 ... if you are using the Isuzu engine and bell housing, then you are probably also retain the Isuzu flywheel and clutch which may require different input shaft geometry than what the H55 has.
Yes this too, I have found a clutch used in the overseas market for this engine but with a spline count and dimensions that
should work with the h55f 21 spline and mesh with the isuzu pressure plate/flywheel just fine.
Great what you're doing. Good service to the community to keep posting up the information.
It's interesting to me to see the difference between old guys fabricating by hand fitting calibrated eyeball method, and the young guys doing the cad cam, 3D printing, laser cutting, etc...
I'm glad to keep yall updated, the people who follow this thread among about 30 of my close friends are the only ones who really care what I'm doing in detail, all of my Instagram or social media followers don't understand this at all, they just would love to see the Red Rocket run again. Plus without y'all id be lacking a lot of wisdom and information!
