Builds Spyduh's LX450 Build (Motor Rebuild + Wits End Turbo Kit)

[spyduh]

one thing to note too is that I took out the 20k CST Blue Fan and put in my original 15k CST Blue Fan back in. 20k + photoman pulley was way to much RPM for the belts and it would constantly "slip" under full boot.

The drive to Pismo with the trailer was 100% normal temps. Love how easy it is to tow with the Turbo. I still have more power than my Naturally Aspirated Crawler80 even with all that weight in the rear.

 

[spyduh]

I bought a new popup toy hauler camper on the weekend. I think it's time to sell my offroad toyota pickup trailer. Anyone interested? I'm waiting for it to stop raining and clean it up and take good pics.

 

[frankenyota]

How good are these things with a turbo, loving my new found power.
I put a diesel thermostat in mine when l turboed the 1FZ, factory was 82 degrees and l use to run about 86-88 degrees Celsius roughly.
With the diesel thermostat which is 76 degrees l run at 77-80 degrees Celsius roughly. A huge improvement in temps, currently flushing my cooling system which had some rust build up. I'm also running a large front mount cooler which should help intake temps.

 

[alia176]

How good are these things with a turbo, loving my new found power.
I put a diesel thermostat in mine when l turboed the 1FZ, factory was 82 degrees and l use to run about 86-88 degrees Celsius roughly.
With the diesel thermostat which is 76 degrees l run at 77-80 degrees Celsius roughly. A huge improvement in temps, currently flushing my cooling system which had some rust build up. I'm also running a large front mount cooler which should help intake temps.

This is quite interesting and I'll need to try a cooler Tstat. 76 c = 168 F , which is much better than the 210F = 98C I was seeing this past summer. This is with a new Koyo radiator even.

 

[Broski]

. Love how easy it is to tow with the Turbo. I still have more power than my Naturally Aspirated Crawler80 even with all that weight in the rear.

Your naturally aspirated Crawler has 39s on it not a fair comparison.

 

[frankenyota]

This is quite interesting and I'll need to try a cooler Tstat. 76 c = 168 F , which is much better than the 210F = 98C I was seeing this past summer. This is with a new Koyo radiator even.

Here is the part number next to the old thermostat.

 

[cruiserdan]

I forget who first said it but putting in a lower temp thermostat in a forced induction truck simply starts the overheating process from a lower temperature. They flow the same when wide-open.

 

[frankenyota]

I never had overheating issues and my cooling system is in good condition as l have been through everything.
If you have an overheating issue you would have to make sure everything is good first.
A lot of the turbo 1FZ guys here in Aus run the diesel thermostats, we do have a very warm climate compared to other countries.
I have also deleted my throttlebody coolant lines and used these feeds for the turbo.

 

[spyduh]

Been a while since I worked on my truck and updated this thread. Been working on my e36 m3 for a change. Anyway onto the update for the Turbo80.

I changed out my EGR modulator with a brand new unit I was having the associated cel code with the original at 190k. Been good so far with another 1000 miles on it and no more codes.

I got a p0172 last trip out so now. It came on twice during a hard uphill pull. I'm changing out the prior new o2s I put in during the rebuild with new brand ones. I'm drilling another hole and moving the o2 sensor where it should be. I originally drilled it a bit too high up the pipe. It only started having problems now after 15k ish miles.

Taking the opportunity to add an exhaust temp sensor from PLX. The module already has an input just needed the sensor.

Cut an old o2 and knocked out the internals. I could not cut through the core with a band saw. That core is stupid hard and even a cut-off wheel angle grinder barely got through it.

Got a female 1/8 npt bung from amzn and now I'm waiting for the male end to arrive in the mail and a nice dry day to weld everything together.

I took a look at my crawler80 this time and will measure where the original position is supposed to be welded into. LOL.
At least I have an excuse for an EGT sensor now.


I know the EGT sensor is supposed to be as close as possible post turbo. Ideally closer to where the AFR sensor is but I'm not drilling into that pipe. Not interested in taking off the Vband and figuring out where to poke a hole in the blanket. I'm just going to plug it in the hole I already have there. The sensor is probably not going to provide very accurate data in that location. But it was either plug in a sensor or add a blockoff plate. I chose some data rather than nothing.

 

[alia176]

Curious, did you check out coolant temp sensor already?


P0172: System too rich (Fuel trim): Trouble Areas: fule line pressure; injector leak--blockage; heated O2 sensor malfunction; mass air flow meter; engine coolant temp. sensor.

 

[spyduh]

Curious, did you check out coolant temp sensor already?


P0172: System too rich (Fuel trim): Trouble Areas: fule line pressure; injector leak--blockage; heated O2 sensor malfunction; mass air flow meter; engine coolant temp. sensor.

I did not but that's what I'm replacing next as the new o2s did not fix my issue.

Edit....
Looked at my partsouq receipts.
89422-35010 ect sensor was replaced with a new one during rebuild.

25820-13020 TVV vac switch was replaced with a new one too.

88790-60050 ECT (AC switch) was reused. AC did cut out when it got over 220ish. I no longer have high temp issues. Shouldn't be related to the rich condition either.

ECT (dash sender gauge) 83420-16040 was reused and my dash gauge works fine.

89422-35010 OEM ect sensor has maybe 15k miles on it. I don't think it's bad if it's pretty much new. I'll get under it tomorrow and test the sensor. Not looking forward to reaching under there.

Going to swap out my spare MAF and see if that helps it too.

 

[spyduh]

New Toyota o2 bung welded. 1/8 NPT bung welded and installed PLX egt sensor.

 

[alia176]

Looks like you've done a fair amount of elimination but let me try another approach. System too "rich" also means too LITTLE air for the same amount of fuel. So, why would your system not able to provide enough air is my question. Why does the upstream O2 sensor think not enough air is found in the combusted air? Where is this air escaping your closed system before going through the combustion process? If you had a J pipe flange leak, you'd definitely be able to hear it. I have that leak and it's loud to me.

I'd suggest doing a smoke test to find the sources of leaks, if any. That's how I found one major leak and couple of minor leaks.

Just noodling out loud!

P0172: System too rich (Fuel trim): Trouble Areas: fuel line pressure; injector leak--blockage; heated O2 sensor malfunction; mass air flow meter; engine coolant temp. sensor

 

[spyduh]

Looks like you've done a fair amount of elimination but let me try another approach. System too "rich" also means too LITTLE air for the same amount of fuel. So, why would your system not able to provide enough air is my question. Why does the upstream O2 sensor think not enough air is found in the combusted air? Where is this air escaping your closed system before going through the combustion process? If you had a J pipe flange leak, you'd definitely be able to hear it. I have that leak and it's loud to me.

I'd suggest doing a smoke test to find the sources of leaks, if any. That's how I found one major leak and couple of minor leaks.

Just noodling out loud!

P0172: System too rich (Fuel trim): Trouble Areas: fuel line pressure; injector leak--blockage; heated O2 sensor malfunction; mass air flow meter; engine coolant temp. sensor

I just did a smoke test with some local MUD (@CJK @meatloaf5000 ) turbo owners near me. This was maybe 3 weeks ago and no leaks showed up during that time.

The engine under idle sounds normal to me and doesn't sound like I have a Jpipe leak. I'll tear into it and check every single exhaust side bolt and retorque it.

 

[alia176]

I just did a smoke test with some local MUD (@CJK @meatloaf5000 ) turbo owners near me. This was maybe 3 weeks ago and no leaks showed up during that time.

The engine under idle sounds normal to me and doesn't sound like I have a Jpipe leak. I'll tear into it and check every single exhaust side bolt and retorque it.

I often wonder if the J pipe nut that you can only access it using a crows foot may be a tad loose on my 80. Joey said the torque is quite small so that may not be the source of my leak.

 

[spyduh]

I often wonder if the J pipe nut that you can only access it using a crows foot may be a tad loose on my 80. Joey said the torque is quite small so that may not be the source of my leak.

jpipe that connects to the turbo snail or the jpipe that connects to the OEM manifold?

Edit: I just took off all the freaking intake pieces and tighten 3 out of the 4 nuts that attach Jpipe to Turbo exhaust housing snail. They barely moved if any and are very tight. I can not reach the last nut and its driving me crazy.

Took off all the heat shielding and now to try and figure out how in the world to tighten the bottom nuts that attach from jpipe OEM manifolds. I did this install when the motor was out and it was super easy with all the room in the world. Now i get to try every wobble, extension, socket, wrench, flex wrench, crows foot and offset wrench in my collection of tools to check for looseness.

 

[spyduh]

I checked all the nuts on the manifold, jpipe on both ends. Nothing was loose to a point I could barely move the nuts 1mm. The wastegate was slightly loose and I snugged that up. Put in my spare MAF and went for a test drive and the inconsistent AFR is still there.

Waiting for new ECT coolant temp sensor from partsouq to arrive now. I may plug in my spare ECU as well while I'm waiting to rule out the possibility of a bad ECU.

 

[CJK]

Bummer - sorry to hear. At least you’ve found like 20 things that aren’t causing it

I assume you double-checked all the little vacuum lines we played with during smoke test?

if fueling is affected by MAF, any intake leak after MAF is also within scope to inspect.

Didn’t you mentioned that you broke and repaired that little “gas” filter thing on the intake manifold?
allegedly , it helps regulate fuel pressure

vaccum...whats this part??

I am guessing this is some kind of sensor? Not sure of technical name. The male end that the hose slides over has broken off on mine.....is it worth replacing or just trying to glue it back together?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Toyo Boyo]

Thought experiment here……

P0172: System too rich (Fuel trim)

Your MAF is pre-turbo which also measures the incoming air temperature. Post turbo the air is hotter. But the ECU has already fuelled for the cooler air temperature.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, ok in the exhaust - the O2 sensor is talking to the ECU and trying to react accordingly.

Could this be affecting your short & long term fuel trims? And maybe confusing the ECU and throwing that code? Weather getting warmer?

This ECU has never been ‘cracked’ to my knowledge so who knows what fuel map its trying to maintain? This is a normally aspirated ECU, now seeing boost.

Or, maybe I’ve had one cider too many

 

[scottryana]

Can you please explain what you are saying the issue is in more detail? Or better yet take a video of it and post it?

I will have to go back through the thread when I am not on my phone but you haven’t made any changes to the fuel system? Fuel pump, injectors, etc?

Any chance you have a way to measure fuel pressure?